浪漫之都布拉格 沉醉在無關愛情的狂想中
Clockwise from top left: preparing a drink at Anonymous Bar; a scene in the Zizkov district, where new art galleries have opened in recent years; T-Anker bar; Pour Pour; a dish at George Prime Steak
順時針左上角開始：匿名者酒吧調酒；濟之科夫區一景，那裏坐落着近年開館的美術館；T-安克酒吧；布爾布爾服飾小店；喬治頂級牛排店。
For people who haven't traveled to Prague recently, the Czech capital might seem like a known quantity: a city with a thousand years of architecture, cheap beer and often boring restaurants where the most unusual ingredients are the doughy dumplings. But Prague is developing so quickly that many locals still haven't heard of all the next big things: flashy new art galleries, dynamically developing old neighborhoods, great bars - beyond and including beer - and new restaurants with flavorful offerings from classic steaks and chops to Asian spice. In fact, so many new developments have appeared in Prague that you could spend an entire weekend visiting only those places that have opened in the past couple of years. See Prague Castle, Charles Bridge and all the other classic attractions. But finish out your stay with some of the vibrant newcomers.
對於近期沒有到訪布拉格的人來說，這座捷克的都城似乎還是舊日熟悉的風貌： 千年的古建築，廉價的啤酒，還有把麪糰餃子當寶貝的千篇一律的餐館。但布拉格正在如此快速地發展，以至於很多變化對於當地人來說都還是新鮮事：美輪美奐的美術館，多元化發展的居民區，一流的酒吧---所提供的酒水中雖然包括，但也絕不僅限於啤酒---還有飯菜可口的新式餐館， 提供的食物從經典牛排、排骨到亞洲香料，應有盡有。事實上，布拉格新變化如此繁多，即便只到訪近年開放的地方，可能就要花去你整個週末。布拉格城堡、查理士橋和其他古典名勝自然是必去之處，但旅行結束前也要記得到訪幾個充滿朝氣的新去處。
1. Clean Up | 5 p.m.
1. 全面整頓| 5 p.m.
Buildings - and residents - in Old Town have cleaned up nicely of late. In the once-decrepit Palac Dlouha, an Art Deco landmark, the new ground-floor shopping arcade includes Sisters, an airy bistro with gourmet open-faced sandwiches (25 to 49 koruna, or $1.25 to $2.50, at 19.50 korunas to the dollar) that make perfect late-afternoon snacks. A block away, two-year-old Eterno Moderno offers vintage and new fashions, mostly for women, some made out of recycled fabric; across the street, Kuraz stocks clothing and accessories from a variety of young Czech designers, like knee-high stockings printed with insects, revolvers and other unusual patterns. Even gentlemen are getting in on the act: Across Wenceslas Square, the Room has been selling men's wear from artsy Northern European brands like Denmark's Libertine-Libertine and Royal Republiq for the past two years. And just around the corner, Thomas's Barber Shop offers a Scotch, cigar, hand-wrap, haircut and straight-razor shave package that costs 1,600 koruna.
古城裏的建築物，包括居民區，都是新近整頓過的。曾經老舊的裝飾藝術地標杜哈宮一樓新建了購物拱廊，其中一家"姐妹"小酒館在售賣美味的單片三明治（25到49克朗，或者是1.25到2.50美元， 19.50克朗等於1美元），這是午後最完美的小食。一個街區之外，兩年前開張的"埃爾泰諾 摩登"（Eterno Moderno）提供古典和最新的潮流服飾，大多是女裝，有的產品用可循環面料製成的。在街對面，"庫哈茲"（Kuraz）存有各式各樣的衣衫和配飾，來自捷克年輕的設計師們，比如印有昆蟲圖案、左輪手槍或是其他別緻圖案的及膝長襪。即使是各位紳士，也能找到他們的一席之地：溫塞斯拉斯廣場另一邊的"空間"（Room）正在售賣藝術氣質十足的北歐品牌男裝，比如丹麥近兩年的潮牌的波普印花（Libertine-Libertine）和Royal Republiq。而就在角落的那邊，湯姆斯理髮店提供蘇格蘭威士忌、雪茄、包手、理髮和刮鬍一條龍服務，只要1600克朗。
2. Opulent Oligarchy | 7 p.m.
2. 奢華寡頭| 7 p.m.
Like many European cities, Prague has gone crazy for fancy hamburgers, and there's nothing quite like the "oligarch burger" at the eight-month-old George Prime Steak: a juicy patty of imported aged American wagyu with foie gras, black truffle aioli, Brillat-Savarin cheese and - of course! - ribbons of 24-karat gold, creating a juicy, smoky explosion of savory flavors that is safely served only in the bar (990 koruna). The burger gets the most attention, but the real draws at this sleek chophouse are the rib-eyes, filets mignons and strip steaks, including a 34-ounce porterhouse for two (1,950 koruna), all sourced from the United States. There is also a line of rare American whiskeys that arguably stops at a 22-year-old rye from Hirsch Selection (550 koruna), since the rarest name on the list, 23-year-old Van Winkle bourbon, is usually sold out. Clearly, some oligarchs have good taste. Dinner for two without wine, 2,500 to 4,000 koruna.
3. Cure Thyself | 10:30 p.m.
3. 自我治癒| 10:30 p.m.
A few of the movers and (literal) shakers in London's cocktail scene are Czech bar owners and bartenders, several of whom have recently returned to mix up concoctions in Prague. The best newcomer is Bonvivant's, a small speakeasy in Old Town that opened this past winter, serving drinks prepared with their own house-made flavorings, including rose-hip-and-hibiscus bitters (cocktails, around 150 koruna). After a highball, wander the cobblestone streets until you stumble across the two-year-old Anonymous Bar, which takes its design inspiration from "V for Vendetta" and offers similarly theatrical drinks, like the St. Marry's Virus cocktail (175 koruna), served from a giant syringe.
4. High Grade | 10 a.m.
4. 優等貨
Don't settle for hotel coffee. For years, high-grade arabica was hard to find in Prague, though that changed with the arrival of a few quality cafes and artisanal roasting houses. In tourist-friendly Old Town, however, a big gap remained. The newest arrival, Original Coffee, opened earlier this year, close to the church of Jan Hus at Betlemske Namesti. Afterword, burn off that caffeine energy with a morning constitutional. Although the neighborhood is home to many tourist attractions, Saturday mornings often have fewer crowds, and tiny, little-used streets like nearby Zlata and Stribrna offer plenty of beautiful photo opportunities.
5. Pair Thee Well | Noon
5. 成雙成對| 中午
Yes, Prague is a beer town, but quality wine is more and more common, especially at meals. The vanguard of the city's wine culture is Vinograf, a year-old wine bar and restaurant at Senovazne Namesti, which serves well-selected Czech wines, mostly from the sunny regions of South Moravia, alongside imports from Austria, France, Italy, Hungary and elsewhere. The menu features Mediterranean and Continental recipes - think of roast pork tenderloin with paprika sauce - that pair well with the 650 or so available bottles. Lunch for two without wine, about 1,000 koruna.
6. Side Streets| 2 p.m.
6. 小街小巷| 2 p.m.
The grungy Zizkov district has developed its colorful cultural life even more in recent years, with a handful of new art galleries north of Skroupovo Namesti. Start out at the two-year-old Drdova Gallery, whose current exhibition includes work from Jiri Thyn, Federico Diaz and Hynek Alt. Two blocks from there you'll find Hunt Kastner Artworks, which moved to Zizkov one year ago, down the block from the City Surfer Office, a gallery and exhibition space run by a collective that also has its own record label. On nearby side streets visit the unusual Bliss Farm Gallery, which turns antique photos into horror-inspired works of art, and 35m2, a tiny exhibition space behind Café Pavlac, where you can finally stop for refreshments.
7. Vintage Designs | 4 p.m.
7.古典設計| 4 p.m.
Fashion in Zizkov and Vinohrady usually means street wear and retro style. During the week, you can sift through Bohemian Retro's impressive collection of men's and women's vintage clothing, mostly from the former Czechoslovakia; the shop is generally closed on weekends, so call to check. A decent alternative on a Saturday afternoon: Prague Thrift Store, a less-curated collection of leather trench coats, blazers and even secondhand books. For ladies' street wear from Czech designers, try Pour Pour, which stocks decorated acrylic bracelets (390 koruna) and leather backpacks (2,500 koruna), as well as tutu-inspired skirts and dresses.
8. Liberal Arts | 5 p.m.
8.自由藝術
Many interesting new developments in the city's northern districts of Holesovice and Bubenec fly under the radar. Start out at the excellent two-year-old Kavarna Liberal, an old-school coffeehouse with high ceilings, refreshing spirits and free Wi-Fi, where you can ask the friendly locals for tips. Down the street, check to see if the four-month-old Galerie Zari, an unusual exhibition space, is open on weekends, as the schedule has recently changed; the neighboring Galerie Zari should be open on Saturdays later this spring.
霍萊斯索維和布本尼克北部區域許多繞有趣味的新變化，都是不知不覺中發生的。從兩年前開張的出色的 "自由卡瓦納爾"（Kavarna Liberal）說起，這個舊式咖啡屋有着高高的天花板，提神的烈酒和免費無線上網服務，在那裏你向友善的當地人詢問一些旅行小貼士。沿着街道往下走，查看一下剛四個月前開張的"扎日畫館"（Galerie Zari） 是否在週末開館，這是一個別致的展覽區，不過開館時間不久前有變動。扎日畫館應是從這個春末開始，每週六開放。
9. Curry Favor | 7 p.m.
9咖喱味
Many of the old favorites in Old Town have changed names, owners and cooks repeatedly. Once called Molly Malone's, the pub on U Obecniho Dvora street is now known as the James Joyce: although the pints of O'Hara's stout make a nice change from Prague's ubiquitous pilsners, the ace card here is the pub's new list of spicy curries. The menu comes from the in-house Sexy Curry Company, which offers jalfrezi, Cape Malay and Thai green curries prepared by Sofia Smith, the chef responsible for several of Prague's best-loved restaurants. Dinner for two without wine, about 1,000 koruna.
古城裏許多老店都多次改換了店名、店主和菜餚。一個在 歐貝妮·朵夫哈街曾被叫做 "莫利·馬龍"（Molly Malone's）的店現在更名叫"詹姆斯·喬伊斯"（James Joyce）：即便大量的歐哈拉黑啤（O'Hara）取代無處不在的比爾森啤酒雖然是一個好的改變，酒吧真正的招牌是一系列的辣味咖喱。菜單來自室內的熱辣咖喱公司，他們提供印度羊肉咖喱加爾弗茲（Jalfrezi），科普馬來菜餚還有泰國綠咖喱，都由索菲亞·史密斯烹飪，她是布拉格幾個最令人喜愛的餐館的主廚。兩人份的晚餐，無酒，大概1000克朗。
10. Tap Race | 9 p.m.
10.布拉格啤酒啤酒
Prague's reputation for great beer is well deserved. The front-runner, Zly Casy, in the south-central Prague district of Nusle, has led the craft beer tap race for years (it now has 48), but last year the pub got yet another expansion, and a new grill menu. Other neighborhood pubs include the excellent U Vodoucha in Zizkov, serving Bohemian cuisine and beers mostly from regional brewers. And in the very center of Prague, the stylish, year-old T-Anker bar atop the Kotva department store offers Czech, German and Belgian craft brews on a rooftop terrace.
布拉格啤酒啤酒的好名聲真是名至實歸。位於布拉格中南部的努斯萊區的 "茲爾·卡西"（Zly Casy）是競爭中的領跑者，在手工啤酒這方面已經領先數年（到現在是48年）。但是上一年小酒館又一次擴建，並且曾加了新的燒烤菜式。包括濟之科夫出色的 "U 烏都查"（U Vodoucha ）在內的其它酒館提供波西米亞菜式和當地釀酒師釀造的啤酒。在布拉格中心，時髦的剛開張一年的 "T- 安克"（T-Anker）是科塔瓦區最好的酒吧，它們在屋頂的露臺上提供捷克、德國和比利時的手工釀品。
11. Contemporary Comfort | 10 a.m.
11.暫歇息
Even the formerly run-down 28 Rijna street has blossomed, welcoming several new shops, including a branch of Harmont & Blaine, an Italian producer of upscale casual wear. The stunner, however, is a new outpost of Julius Meinl, the delicatessen in Vienna that opened its three-story food emporium and restaurant here last winter. Even if you don't feel like buying a whole Mediterranean octopus or one of the 450 kinds of cheese, the renovated Secessionist building is a must-see. Afterward, recover two doors down with a bowl of contemporary comfort food: hearty tonkotsu ramen (240 koruna), filled with pork, seaweed and soft-boiled eggs, at the two-month-old Kitchen Ramen Bar. You can have dumplings some other time.
連原來逐漸衰敗的28裏那街也開始繁榮起來了，開了一些新的鋪子，包括 意大利頂級休閒品牌"小黃狗"(Harmont & Blaine)。然而最妙的第一咖啡品牌"朱麗亞·麥諾 "（Julius Meinl）的新店和上個冬天剛剛開張的一個三層食品商場及餐館。即便你不想整隻地中海章魚或者是450餘種奶酪中的一種，剛翻新的分離主義建築可是一個必遊之地。過後，在兩個月前開張的廚房拉麪吧（Kitchen Ramen Bar）以一碗現代可口的食物來恢復你的精力：一碗豐盛的豚骨拉麪（240克朗）裏有豬肉、海帶和半熟的雞蛋。你可以另找時間來品嚐捷克餃子。
