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火遍大街小巷的老爹鞋,到底好看在哪?

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Up until recently, it was starkly minimal, fade-into-the-background shoes that were being hailed as a fashion status symbol.

火遍大街小巷的老爹鞋,到底好看在哪?

最近,一種簡單,近乎成爲歷史的的鞋子又重新成爲了時尚的寵兒。

But, skip to 2018 and an unlikely item that two decades ago would have been considered sartorial suicide is sweeping through the street style pack.

二十年前,這種鞋子還被當作是設計師的恥辱,而如今它卻席捲了大街小巷,實在令人匪夷所思。

Throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, this style of shoe was worn exclusively by dads and, as such, became pigeonholed as the epitome of uncool.

縱觀整個八九十年代,老爹鞋從來都是老爸們的“專屬”,因爲它們一點也不酷,因此常常被人們束之高閣。

Now though, those very same chunky, bulbous and vaguely orthopaedic-looking trainers have become the must have cool-girl purchase of the year.

然而今天,那些看起來圓胖笨重的運動鞋卻成了酷女孩的年度必敗品。

But, exactly how did the dad trainer manage to shake off its tasteless reputation?

然而,這些老爹運動鞋是如何重振旗鼓脫穎而出的呢?

Like most trends, this one started on the catwalk where a love for all things ‘90s saw a return to golden-era sportswear and footwear that considered ugliness an aesthetic statement.

像其他流行趨勢一樣,老爹鞋的流行也始於一場走秀(秀場是流行滋生的溫牀),90後認爲運動衣和運動鞋的“黃金時代”已經歸來,人們曾一度認爲這些衣服都很醜。

According to one expert though, the dad shoe’s rise to fame initially grew out the normcore trend with Adidas’ Stan Smith – which was re-released in 2014 – the main catalyst for its popularity.

儘管有關專家認爲,阿迪的史丹·史密斯在normcore上的興起——它於2014年再度發行,是老爹鞋再度流行的催化劑。

“Honest to God, what could be more of a dad shoe than the Stan Smith? I mean, my dad wore them,” Elizabeth Semmelhack, a shoe historian and the senior curator of Toronto's Bata Shoe Museum told Cosmopolitan.

多倫多巴塔鞋類博物館的館長Semmelhack在接受某媒體採訪時說:“說老實話,哪個鞋會比阿迪的史丹·史密斯更像老爹鞋?我爸爸確實在穿它。”

Despite being super-comfy, Semmelhack adds that no one is really wearing them because of their practicality.

儘管這種鞋非常舒適,Semmelhack說人們穿老爹鞋並不是因爲它的舒適。

Instead, they’re seen as the perfect antidote to fashion’s seriousness and a way for women to make a powerful statement.

反之,這些鞋子闡釋了離經叛道,成爲女性表達自我的有力渠道。

“The majority of people are wearing them in a kind of ironic way,” she says.

她說:“大部分的人都以一種玩世不恭的方式穿老爹鞋。”

“They’re super themselves, super fashionable and beautiful, and then to have on these somewhat clunky shoes creates an edgy compare and contrast.”

他們極度自我,美麗且時尚,他們用這種笨重的鞋子與自身形成鮮明的對比。

Women’s footwear is in a bit of an interesting moment, because the high heel is losing currency, and I do think, in part, it's related to the #MeToo movement.

女人們的鞋子如今正處在一個頗爲有趣的時代,高跟鞋正在逐漸失寵,並且我確實認爲這和 Metoo行動有關。

“It's a kind of complicated moment in actual politics, gender politics, and the politics of footwear.”

“如今的實際政治學,有關於性別以及鞋子的政治學都面臨着複雜的形勢。”

Despite their unwavering popularity, not everyone is convinced and many have taken to social media to express their aversion to the ugly trainer trend.

儘管老爹鞋大熱,但有些人卻並不買賬,他們通過社交網絡表達了自己對這種醜鞋的厭惡。

(翻譯:進擊的Meredith)