三天兩晚 在曼哈頓度一個完美週末

The isle of Manhattan is small, but bustling. From Chinatown to Little India, there are so many diverse neighborhoods, even micro-neighborhoods, that offer such distinct experiences that it you can turn a corner and feel that you have entered another world. But many New Yorkers would admit that, more broadly, there are two Manhattans: Uptown and Downtown.

曼哈頓島不大，卻熙熙攘攘。從唐人街(Chinatown)到小印度(Little India)，那裏有許許多多不同的社區，甚至是微型社區，生活風貌千差萬別，你只要拐個彎，就會覺得自己進入了另一個世界。但是許多紐約客都認爲，大體上看，紐約有兩個曼哈頓：上城區(Uptown)和下城區(Downtown)。

But what separates the two? That might depend on whom you ask. Someone might tell you that Downtown, home to galleries and the Financial District has a certain edge and energy, compared to the polish of Uptown’s parks, museums and posh department stores. But others may have a more literal answer: Downtown Manhattan extends from the southern-most tip of the island, ending at 34th street, while Uptown Manhattan truly begins with Central Park, at 59th street. What is in between? Midtown of course, but that’s another story.

但上城區和下城區該如何劃分？也許那就得看你問的人是誰了。有些人可能會告訴你，下城區是各大畫廊雲集之處，而且這個金融行政區(Financial District)有着某種銳氣與活力，不同於上城區那些光鮮亮麗的公園、博物館和時尚的百貨商店。但其他人可能回答得更實在：曼哈頓下城區起於此島的最南端，止於34街；而上城區實際上從59街的中央公園(Central Park)開始。那麼中間是哪兒呢？當然是中城區(Midtown)啦。不過，那就是另外一回事了。

Downtown

Downtown/下城區篇

Friday:

星期五

1. Ground Zero: 3pm

1. 參觀世貿大廈遺址(Ground Zero)：下午3點

Visit the place where the World Trade Center’s “Twin Towers” stood before the devastating attacks on September 11, 2001. The 9/11 Museum and Memorial at “Ground Zero” is a 110,000 square foot exhibition space dedicated to those who died in the attacks in Manhattan, at the Pentagon in Washington, DC and on Flight 93. The museum space is divided into three historical exhibitions: before 9/11, the day of the attacks and then life after 9/11. Watch a film called “Rebirth at Ground Zero” in the Education Center to get a first hand account of the space’s journey from the site of severe wreckage to monument to the strength of New York City and America. General admission is $25 for adults and $15 for children, but download the mobile app for a free guide to the memorial. A children’s guide is also available, but be warned if traveling as a family; some of the exhibits about what happened on 9/11 might be tough for children to handle.

參觀一下在2001年9月11日那場慘絕人寰的襲擊發生之前，原世貿中心(World Trade Center)“雙子塔”(Twin Towers)的所在地吧。這座位於世貿大廈遺址的博物館與紀念館，是一處面積11萬平方英尺（約10219平方米）的展覽空間，用於紀念在那次曼哈頓襲擊、華盛頓特區五角大樓以及當時的93次航班上罹禍身亡的人。該博物館分爲三個歷史展區：9·11之前的面貌、襲擊當日的情況，以及9·11之後的生活。參觀者還可以在教育中心(Education Center)觀看一部影片，名爲“世貿大廈遺址的重生”(Rebirth at Ground Zero)。通過這些一手資料，瞭解該博物館如何從斷壁殘垣的廢墟，變成了見證紐約與美國強大力量的紀念碑。普通門票的價格爲成人25美元（約合人民幣157元），兒童15美元（約合人民幣94元），但你可以下載一個免費的紀念館參觀指南手機軟件，兒童參觀指南也有，但最好全家一起參觀，因爲關於9·11當天襲擊的部分展覽內容可能不適宜兒童觀看。

2. Cocktails and Dinner at Minetta Tavern: 6pm

2. 品嚐敏奈塔酒館(Minetta Tavern)的雞尾酒與晚餐：下午6點

Greenwich Village, famously once home to New York’s Beat poets, jazz musicians, artists and Bohemians, is still home to Minetta Tavern, whose old oak bar is perfect for leaning on while sipping a draught or classic cocktail before dinner. The tavern opened in the 1937, but when restaurateur Keith McNally took the reins a few years ago, the place was given new life—though not an entirely new look. After a drink at the bar, slide in to one of the rich red booths in the back for some classic French fair: roasted bone marrow spread on crisp pieces of toasted baguette ($21), a Mesclun Salad ($15) or Norwegian smoked salmon appetizers ($20) are the perfect precursor to one of the restaurant’s two burger options ($20 or $28) or the Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf for two ($145).

衆所周知，格林威治村(Greenwich Village)曾經是“垮掉的一代”詩人、爵士音樂家、藝術家與波西米亞人聚集的地方，現在也仍舊是敏奈塔酒館的所在地。酒吧裏古老的橡木吧檯，最適合靠着喝杯小酒或餐前雞尾酒。這家酒館從1937年起就開始營業了，但前幾年基思麥克納利餐廳(Keith McNally)的興起，使這個地方改頭換面了，儘管看上去變化並不大。在酒吧裏喝過一巡，然後溜到後面一個大紅色的攤位上來些經典的法式大排檔：香脆烤麪包配骨髓醬（21美元[約合人民幣132元]）、法國蔬菜沙拉（15美元[約合人民幣94元]）或挪威煙燻三文魚頭盤（20美元[約合人民幣125元]），這幾道都是最好的餐前開胃菜，搭配該店兩款漢堡主食（一款20美元[約合人民幣125元]，一款28美元[約合人民幣176元]）中的任意一款都可以，或那道兩人份的乾式熟成法式牛排（Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf，145美元[約合人民幣909元]）。

3. Late Jazz Session at The Blue Note: 10:30pm

3. 聽聽藍調俱樂部(The Blue Note)的爵士樂：晚上10點半

After dinner and a stroll around Washington Square Park and through Greenwich Village, pop in to Blue Note Jazz Club on West 3rd Street. Blue Note, one of the city’s most famous venues for jazz music, features performances at 8pm and 10:30pm nightly with a varying line up that’s sure to please on any evening you happen to wander in. Get there a bit early-- the space is cramped, so be prepared to sit close to those at the table next to you-- and remember it’s all a part of the ambiance. Tickets for 10:30pm sessions range from $35-45.

吃完晚餐，在華盛頓廣場公園(Washington Square Park)散散步，然後穿過格林威治村，來到西3街(West 3rd Street)的藍調爵士俱樂部(Blue Note Jazz Club)。這裏是紐約最著名的爵士樂演奏地之一，每晚8點至10點半都有豐富多樣的音樂表演，保證你不管哪天晚上逛到這裏，都會盡興而歸。儘量早點來吧，因爲地方太狹小了，所以你得做好準備，儘量與同桌的人坐得近一些，不過別忘了，這也是現場氣氛的一部分。10點半的晚場門票從35美元（約合人民幣220元）至45美元（約合人民幣282元）不等。

Saturday:

星期六

4. Russ and Daughters for Bagel and Schmear: 9am

4. 嚐嚐多斯特餐廳(Russ and Daughters)的百吉餅和奶油芝士：上午9點

A hot coffee and a bagel with schmear is a quintessential New York City breakfast and nobody does cream cheese and smoked fish quite like Russ and Daughters specialty grocery on East Houston Street on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Walk in, grab a ticket and wait for your number to be called while you peruse their array of smoked salmon, white fish, caviars, rugala, fruits, nuts and other sweet treats. Craft your ideal bagel with all of the fixings, or order by the pound ($36 per pound for Belly Lox, $40 per pound for Gaspe Nova Smoked Salmon) and take it to go. If you’re picking up for a picnic in one of the nearby parks, and caviar is what you crave, there is no shortage of options. This grocery sells a variety of roe and packages of the thin Blini pancakes that make for a classic pairing.

一杯熱咖啡，和一塊加了奶油芝士的百吉餅，就是典型的紐約早餐。但任何一家店的奶油芝士與煙燻魚都比不上這家位於曼哈頓下東區(Lower East Side)東休斯頓街(East Houston Street)的多斯特餐廳(Russ and Daughters)特色食品店。走進來，取張票，等待叫號的時候，仔細看看店裏成排的煙燻三文魚、白魚、魚籽醬、起酥卷、水果、堅果和其他甜品。想想怎麼用這些配料來組成你最完美的百吉餅早餐吧，或者按磅買單（薰三文魚腩[Belly Lox]每磅36美元[約合人民幣256元]，加斯佩新式煙燻三文魚[Gaspe Nova Smoked Salmon]每磅40美元[約合人民幣251元]），然後帶走。如果你正打算去附近的某個公園野餐，要爲此買些食物，又特別想吃魚籽醬，就可以在這裏盡情挑選了。這家食品店銷售各種各樣的魚籽，還有包裝好的薄煎餅皮，正好配成一款經典組合。

5. High Line: 11am

5. 高線公園(High Line)：上午11點

On a sunny day, the perfect place to walk off a hearty breakfast is the High Line on the west side. Spanning from Gansevoort Street to West 34th Street between 10th and 12th Avenues, the elevated park was once an out-of –use railway track. Today it’s a popular green space that runs along the Hudson River and through the buzzing Meatpacking and Chelsea neighborhoods. Kiosks selling snacks and beverages will keep kids satisfied along the way and the benches that line the narrow park are perfect for taking a rest or snapping a “selfie” before walking back down to the city streets.

要在一個陽光明媚的日子出門散散步，消化一下豐盛的早餐，最好的去處便是西邊的高線公園(High Line)了。這座高架公園從甘斯沃爾特街(Gansevoort Street)一直延伸到第十大道(10th Avenues)與十二大道(12th Avenues)間的西34街(West 34th Street)，沿着休斯頓河(Hudson River)穿過熙熙攘攘的肉類加工區(Meatpacking)和切爾西(Chelsea)的居住區。這裏有許多販賣零食與飲料的小鋪，可以把孩子們一路上哄得心滿意足。而且，沿着這座狹窄的公園一字排開的長椅，也很適合遊人坐下來休息一會兒，或在走回城市街道之前，來張自拍什麼的。

6. Lunch at Chelsea Market: 1pm

6. 去切爾西市場(Chelsea Market)吃午餐：下午1點

There’s something for everyone at Chelsea Market. Under the High Line this food hall style market is chock full of stalls selling everything from flowers to tacos to artisanal cheeses and freshly baked breads. Most of the vendors represent small New York businesses and the market takes up an entire city block (between 15th and 16th streets), so be sure to take a lap around to survey the offerings before deciding what to eat for lunch. It’s a perfect stop after a morning spent walking along the west side, either window shopping or just taking in the breeze from the Hudson River.

每個人都會在切爾西市場(Chelsea Market)有所收穫。在這個美食廣場風格的市場裏，擠滿了販售各種東西的小商鋪，從鮮花到烤玉米餅，再到手工芝士與新鮮出爐的麪包，應有盡有。這裏的大多數商販代表着紐約本地的小行當，而且這個市場佔據了一整條街區（在15街與16街之間），所以一定要好好逛一逛。先去每家都看一看，再決定午餐吃些什麼。早上無論是走馬觀花地逛逛街，還是在哈德遜河邊吹吹風，在西區散完步後，來這裏落腳休息一下是再好不過了。

7. The New Museum: 3:00pm

7. 參觀新博物館(New Museum)：下午3點

After lunch, head back east for a visit at The New Museum. The contemporary art museum’s 2015 Triennial, titled “Surround Audience,” is in full swing, showcasing more than fifty-one artists from twenty-five countries around the world. The ticket ($18) gives you access to the museum’s five floors of gallery space, plus the Sky Room, which offers a panoramic view of downtown Manhattan. A free, guided tour starts at 3pm.

吃過了午餐，往東邊走走，去參觀一下新博物館(New Museum)吧。在這座現代藝術博物館裏，一場名爲“圍觀”(Surround Audience)的2015年度三年展(2015 Triennial)正在如火如荼地進行當中，全世界共有25個國家的超過51名藝術家參展。此次展出的門票（18美元[約合人民幣113元]）讓你可以參觀該博物館上下五層的畫廊空間，還包括那間空中展室(Sky Room)，從那裏可以觀看曼哈頓下城區的全景。免費的導遊服務從下午三點開始。

8. Dinner at Estela: 7pm

8. 在埃斯特拉(Estela)餐廳吃晚餐：晚上7點

Once dinnertime rolls around, head to Estela, a small, upstairs restaurant that feels tucked away, even on Houston Street, a main downtown thoroughfare. President Obama and the First Lady dined here last fall on a visit to New York City. If that’s not reason enough to check it out, the wine list is extensive, and the menu of Mediterranean inspired dishes, like the Burrata with salsa verde and charred bread ($17), are just right for sharing with a group.

晚餐時間一到，直奔埃斯特拉吧。這是一家開在樓上的小餐館，感覺很僻靜，即便那裏靠着下城區的一條主幹道豪斯頓街(Houston Street)。奧巴馬總統與第一夫人去年秋天來紐約的時候，曾在這裏吃過晚餐。如果這個原因還不足以讓你來看看，那麼這裏還有各式各樣的紅酒及地中海式菜餚，比如意大利袋形芝士配歐芹醬(Burrata with salsa verde)和碳烤麪包(charred bread)，正好可以多人分享。

9. Night Cap at the Bowery Hotel: 10pm

9. 在柏威裏酒店(Bowery Hotel)飲杯睡前酒：晚上10點

The Lobby Bar at The Bowery Hotel keeps many of the high-backed armchairs and the prime seating on perfectly broken in couches reserved for hotel guests. But the hominess of space, which feels like one of the city’s most opulent old living rooms, might be worth price of a suite. There’s a second bar, on the second floor, that’s more expansive and not exclusive to guests. There you’ll find outdoor space that’s just right for one last drink before the Saturday night partying crowd takes over.

柏威裏酒店裏的這家大堂酒吧，爲酒店的客人們準備了許多高背扶手椅，以及一些組合沙發。但這裏的親切感就像紐約市某家最豪華的老客廳，也許值得上一套正裝的價格。二樓還有一間酒吧，消費更高，而且不只對酒店顧客開放。你可以在那裏找個露天的地方坐着，在星期六晚的派對人潮蜂擁而至之前，最後再喝上一杯。

Sunday:

星期天

10. Down for Dim Sum: 11 am

10. 去吃早茶：上午11點

Nom Wah Tea Parlor is the city’s oldest dim sum destination. Brunch on Doyers Street will put you in the heart of Chinatown, so after a few orders of Sticky Rice with Chinese Sausage ($4), the Cilantro and Scallion Rice ($3.50) or the Taro Dumplings ($4) take a stroll around the vibrant lower Manhattan neighborhood, which is also sometimes called “Two Bridges” on your way toward either of the near by bridges that cross the East River: the Manhattan Bridge or the Brooklyn Bridge. Walking all the way across either one will take you in to Brooklyn, but just making it half way across and looking back provides nice views of downtown and a nice post-meal walk.

南華茶樓(Nom Wah Tea Parlor)是紐約市最古老的一家供應早茶的餐廳。在多耶斯街(Doyers Street)享用早午餐時，你就將置身於唐人街的中心地帶。所以，吃完中式臘腸糯米飯（4美元[約合人民幣25元]），芫荽香蔥炒飯（3.5美元[約合人民幣22元]）或芋頭酥（4美元[約合人民幣25元]）後，就在曼哈頓下城區這片生機勃勃的社區裏散散步吧。這裏有時候也被稱爲“雙橋”(Two Bridges)，因爲你往附近走走就會發現，兩邊各有一座大橋橫跨東河(East River)：曼哈頓大橋(Manhattan Bridge)與布魯克林大橋(Brooklyn Bridge)。無論通過哪座橋都可進入布魯克林區，但走到橋中間時，停下來回頭看看，你就能看到美麗的下城區風景。這會是一次愉快的飯後散步活動。

Uptown:

Uptown/上城區篇

Friday

星期五

1. Row Your Boat: 2:30pm

1. 去划船吧：下午2點半

The Loeb Boathouse in Central Park opened in 1954 and remains as a landmark in the more than 840-acre green-space. Make your way there and rent a rowboat ($15 an hour, with a $20 cash deposit). Each boat will fit up to four people, but if your group is larger, gondola rides are available for up to six people ($30 for half an hour). Afterward, head back to the boathouse for an afternoon snack. There is indoor and outdoor dining, right along the water, as well as an express café, which is open until 5pm daily.

中央公園(Central Park)的羅艾柏船屋(Loeb Boathouse)於1954年開業，在這片面積超過840英畝(約340公頃)的綠地中，這座船屋一直是個地標。到那裏去租條小船劃一劃（收費每小時15美元[約合人民幣94元]，另需再付20美元[約合人民幣125元]的押金）。每條船可以搭乘四人，但如果你們人多，可以租一條能坐下六人的貢多拉（每半小時30美元[約合人民幣188元]）。劃完了，再回到船屋裏吃些下午的點心。這裏有室內就餐區，也有毗鄰水邊的戶外就餐區，還有咖啡外賣服務，每天營業至下午5點。

2. Madison Avenue Stroll: 4pm

2. 在麥迪遜大道(Madison Avenue)散個步：下午4點

Exit the park on the east side and walk to Madison Avenue for prime window-shopping. The street was once known for it’s advertising firms, much like the one depicted in the television drama “Mad Men” but today it’s home to some of the city’s most lux retailers. Stroll past the boutiques of Christian Louboutin, Prada, Ralph Lauren and visit one of the most famous department stores in the city: Barney’s New York. If you’re not interested in shopping, head to Fred’s, the restaurant on the 9th floor. As any restaurant that is situated so close to fitting rooms should, it offers several salads-- The Vegan ($19) or a Caesar with chicken ($27), along with the heartier options like the 5th Street Cuban sandwich ($19).

離開公園的東邊，走到麥迪遜大道(Madison Avenue)去看看沿途商店的櫥窗。這條大街曾因廣告公司雲集而出名，像極了美劇《廣告狂人》(Mad Men)裏的場景。但如今，這裏坐落着一批紐約市最奢華的零售商店。你可以一路經過克里斯提·魯布托(Christian Louboutin)、普拉達(Prada)、拉爾夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)等精品店，去看看這座城市最著名的百貨商店之一——紐約巴尼斯百貨公司(Barney’s New York)。如果你對購物不感興趣，不妨直奔位於此商場第九層的弗雷德餐廳(Fred’s)。正如所有商場裏的餐廳一樣，這裏有若干種沙拉供應——素食沙拉（19美元[約合人民幣119元]）或雞肉凱撒沙拉（27美元[約合人民幣169元]），此外還有一些更親切的食物，如第五街古巴三明治（19美元[約合人民幣119元]）。

3. A Room with a View: 8pm

3. 看得見風景的房間：晚上8點

For a great panoramic view of Central Park and the surrounding skyscrapers, head to the Mandarin Oriental hotel’s Lobby Lounge for an evening drink. The five star hotel, is in the Time Warner Center on Columbus Circle, and the bar is quiet and sophisticated. There are classic, as well as modern specialty cocktails ($22) on their bar menu which changes seasonally.

爲了更好地觀賞中央公園的全景，以及周邊的都市景觀，不妨到文華東方酒店(Mandarin Oriental hotel)的大堂酒廊裏喝一杯。這座五星級酒店位於哥倫布環島(Columbus Circle)的時代華納中心(Time Warner Center)，酒吧非常典雅，也非常安靜。這裏提供一些經典的酒類飲品，也有一些現代的特調雞尾酒（22美元[約合人民幣138元]）。酒吧的飲品單會按季更新。

Saturday:

星期六

4. Better Brunch: 11am

4. 更好的早午餐：上午11點

For a classic brunch, head back to Central Park. Tavern on The Green reopened last April, after a four-year-long closure. Now renovated, the restaurant, which first opened in 1934, is another iconic Central Park landmark and a nice place to start a spring day with a basket of pastries from Balthazar Bakery ($11) or a stack of buttermilk pancakes ($19). Feeling indulgent? Add a pitcher of Vermont maple syrup and another of melted butter for pouring ($9).

想要品嚐一頓經典的早午餐？回到中央公園來吧。綠苑酒廊(Tavern on The Green)在長達四年的停業後，於去年四月重新開張。這家1934年初次營業的餐廳現已翻修一新，是中央公園裏的另一處標誌性建築，也是春日裏開始一天生活的好地方。你可以來一籃巴爾薩澤麪包房(Balthazar Bakery)的酥皮點心（11美元[約合人民幣69元]），或一疊酪乳煎餅（19美元[約合人民幣119元]）。要任性一點嗎？再添一壺佛蒙特州楓糖漿和一份稀黃油，倒在上面吧（9美元[約合人民幣56元]）。

5. Chinese Whispers: 1pm

5. 中國風：下午1點

This spring the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art have collaborated for an exhibition called “China: Through the Looking Glass,” on display from May 7 to August 16. The show coincides with the Met Costume Ball, hosted annually by Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue. The party is one of the fashion industry’s biggest nights in New York. Designers and celebrities walk the red carpet in clothes inspired by the exhibit, which consists of couture and traditional Chinese costume, along with painting, film and sculpture. Visit the collection that inspired this year’s theme. A donation to the museum is recommended upon entry.

今年春天，紐約大都會藝術博物館(Metropolitan Museum of Art)、時裝學院(Costume Institute)和亞洲藝術部(Department of Asian Art)將聯合舉辦一場名爲“中國：鏡花水月”(China: Through the Looking Glass)的展覽，展期從5月7日至8月16日。這次展覽剛好與《服飾與美容》(Vogue)雜誌的主編安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)每年舉辦的“紅毯禮服秀”(Met Costume Ball)同時舉行。這個派對可是紐約時尚界的一大盛事，許多設計師與明星走過紅毯，他們所穿的服飾都從這次展覽中獲得了靈感。此次展覽不僅包括高級時裝與傳統的中國服飾，還有繪畫、電影與雕塑作品。所以，來看看今年時尚主題的靈感之源吧。建議在博物館入口處投一點捐款。

6. Shop ‘Til You Drop: 3pm

6. 買到你手軟：下午3點

There is so much luxury shopping to be done uptown that it can be overwhelming. The multi-level flagship stores of French brands like Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Cartier are all located within walking distance of each other (though the famous Cartier mansion is currently under renovation, so shoppers will now find their baubles at the temporary location on Fifth Avenue and 59th street) if you’re willing to brave the crowds in the popular shopping district. Stop in to Bergdorf Goodman, an iconic New York City department stores, for a slightly more contained shopping experience. There is a shoe salon on the second floor, a fur salon on the fourth, a bridal salon on the seventh floor and an actual beauty salon (the John Barrett Salon) on the ninth ($125 for a haircut, $75 for a pedicure). Wary shoppers may enjoy the afternoon tea service from 3-5pm in the BG Restaurant (located on the seventh floor) where there is also a full bar, in case tea just won’t cut it.

上城區有許多購買奢侈品的地方，簡直讓人買東西買到手軟！如果你不懼怕這個大衆購物區裏的洶涌人潮的話，一些法國品牌——如愛馬仕(Hermès)、路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)和卡地亞(Cartier)，它們那佔據好幾層樓的旗艦店都相距不過幾步路之遙（不過著名的卡地亞大廈正在翻修，所以買家們可以去第五大道與59街交匯處的臨時門店裏淘點小飾品）。然後走進紐約市標示性的百貨商店波道夫·古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)逛一逛，享受一下更爲從容不迫的購物體驗。商店二樓有一處鞋履沙龍，四樓有一處皮草沙龍，七樓有一家婚禮用品沙龍，九樓還有一間很不錯的美容沙龍，名叫the John Barrett Salon（理髮一次125美元[約合人民幣784元]，美甲一次75美元[約合人民幣470元]）。而那些在購物方面較爲謹慎的消費者，也許會更喜歡下午3到5點間在BG餐廳（BG Restaurant，位於商店七樓）享用下午茶。如果你覺得喝茶還不過癮的話，那裏還有一個提供全方位服務的酒吧。

7. New York history: 5pm

7. 瞭解紐約的歷史：下午5點

The American Museum of Natural History is a favorite of children and adults alike. The vast museum’s classic dioramas have been made only more famous by their appearances in the recent Night at the Museum movies. But just across 77th street, The New York Historical society brings the past to life in a different way. The museum and library are full of artifacts from New York’s distant, and not so distant history, and provide great context for the city, as it exists today. It’s not nearly as large as the Natural History Museum, but even a quick visit is worth the price of admission: $19.

美國自然歷史博物館(American Museum of Natural History)是孩子們最愛去的地方，成年人也是一樣。這家大型博物館裏的那些經典的實景模型，曾經出現在系列電影《博物館奇妙夜》(Night at the Museum)裏，所以就變得越發有名了。不過只要穿過77街，紐約市歷史協會(New York Historical society)就把這座城市的過去以一種完全不同的方式呈現了出來。在這家博物館兼圖書館中，展示了大量歷史悠久的以及來自近當代紐約的手工製品，可以讓我們瞭解這座城市是如何變成了今天的樣子。雖然這座博物館遠沒有自然歷史博物館的規模大，但即便走馬觀花地參觀一下，也能值回票價了：19美元（約合人民幣119元）。

8. Locally Sourced: 8pm

8.當地特色美食：晚上8點

Make a reservation to have dinner across town at The East Pole and get a taste of what New York State has to offer by way of delicious, local produce, meats and cheeses. The restaurant, located in a refurbished brownstone building, embodies the farm to table concept that’s become an expectation at so many new restaurants in the city. While they also use dairy and livestock from Vermont and New Hampshire, a nice selection of ingredients come from right here in New York State, including the fish in a fresh fluke crudo ($18) and a delicate rosé ($13 for a glass, $50 for a bottle) from Long Island.

在本區另一端的東極餐廳(The East Pole)預訂一個晚餐位吧，嘗一嘗以本地產的鮮美肉製品與奶酪做的紐約州菜餚。這家餐廳位於一棟修葺一新的褐石建築中，是一家奉行“從農田到餐桌”理念的餐廳，而這一理念已經成爲紐約市內許多新餐廳的準則。雖然他們也會採購來自佛蒙特(Vermont)與新罕布什爾(New Hampshire)的奶製品及家畜類肉製品，但也有大批各種各樣的原料就來自紐約州本地，包括一道生魚片菜餚（18美元[約合人民幣113元]）中的魚，和來自長島(Long Island)的一種精緻玫瑰酒（一杯13美元[約合人民幣82元]，一瓶50美元[約合人民幣314元]）。

Sunday:

星期天

9. Another Uptown: 10am

9. 再探上城區：上午10點

Fresh-squeezed or cold-pressed, healthy fruit and vegetable juices have taken over New York. But there are still places to enjoy a hearty breakfast; complete with eggs and a Bloody Mary. So take the train or a taxi way uptown to Harlem-- one of Manhattan’s most vibrant uptown neighborhoods. It’s the place to go for classic, America soul food. Carlos Swepson’s BLVD Bistro, on Malcolm X Boulevard, is a recent addition to neighborhood, but it’s taking Harlem history, with all of its southern influences, very seriously. Biscuit sandwiches come with cheese melted atop scrambled eggs and the choice of apple-smoked bacon or chicken apple sausage ($14) and there are seven types of cheese, plus more apple-smoked bacon, in the macaroni ($17). There are healthier options too: try the country oatmeal topped with banana, which is made even sweeter with cane sugar syrup ($9).

新鮮擠壓或冷榨的健康果蔬汁已經佔領了紐約。但仍然有地方可以享受一頓豐盛的早餐，最後再來幾個雞蛋和一杯血腥瑪麗(Bloody Mary)。所以，搭乘輕軌或出租車到上城區的哈萊姆區(Harlem)去吧——這裏是曼哈頓上城區最有活力的社區之一，也是品嚐美國經典靈魂食品（soul food，美國黑人的傳統食品——譯註）的地方。卡洛斯·斯萬普森(Carlos Swepson)在馬爾科姆艾克斯大道(Malcolm X Boulevard)開設的BLVD Bistro餐廳，是最近才加入這個社區的商家，但它的南方特色風味，顯示出其對於哈萊姆歷史的重視。這裏有酪乳麪包三明治配芝士炒蛋，還可以選擇蘋果木煙燻培根或雞肉蘋果香腸（14美元[約合人民幣88元]），還有放了七種芝士和更多蘋果木薰培根的通心粉（17美元[約合人民幣107元]）。這裏也有一些更健康的飲食選擇：試試那款表面覆有香蕉的鄉村燕麥粥（9美元[約合人民幣56元]）吧，做得比甘蔗糖漿還要甜。

10. Björk in 3D: 12:30pm

10. 3D比約克(Björk)：中午12:30

Okay, so MoMA is just below Central Park, but The Modern Museum of Art ia always worth a visit and its retrospective of work by the Icelandic artist and musician Björk pushes the boundaries, even for a contemporary art exhibition. It incorporates over twenty years of the avant-garde performer’s music, costumes, videos, objects, even diaries that took three years to develop. The central work is an audio tour called “Songlines” that will require visitors to secure a timed ticket at no additional cost to the price of general admission ($25). The exhibition is sprinkled through the museum—music from her album “Biophilia” plays in the lobby, there is another audio exhibit, especially commissioned for the museum, on the second floor. The presentation continues with “Songlines” on the third floor. Timed tickets for the experience become available at 10:30am daily, and a wait is to be expected.

好吧，現代藝術博物館(Modern Museum of Art)就在中央公園下方，這家博物館無論如何都值得去看看，而且其中的冰島藝術家與音樂家比約克的懷舊作品展，即便作爲一場現代藝術展來看也十分前衛。館內收藏了這位先鋒表演藝術家20多年來的音樂、服飾、影像、物品，甚至是一些日記。這些物品一共花了三年時間才收藏齊全。該展的重頭戲是一場名爲“歌的版圖”(Songlines)的有聲之旅，要求每位參觀者領取一張計次門票，但它不會在博物館普通票價（25美元[約合人民幣157元])的基礎上另行收費。這場展覽散佈在館內的各個角落，大堂裏播放着比約克專輯《Biophilia》中的音樂；二樓還設有一處專門爲該博物館打造的有聲展；而來到三樓，就能看到“歌的版圖”的演示部分了。此特展的計次門票每天上午10:30開始發放，可能需要排隊等候。