澳門商人收購勃艮第葡萄園引當地人不滿

Macau casino executive Louis Ng is getting a crash course in international relations as he tries to calm the French storm that followed news he had purchased a vineyard in the hallowed wine region of Burgundy.

澳門博彩業經理人吳志誠(Louis Ng)正在上一堂國際關係速成課。他在葡萄酒聖地勃艮第收購一個葡萄園的消息在法國引發了一場風暴，目前他正在努力平息。

Called 'le chinois' [the Chinese] by the local French media, the 60-year-old Mr. Ng is among the most powerful casino executives in the Chinese gambling enclave of Macau. He is the chief operating officer at SJM Holdings Ltd., +0.13%the holding company founded by Hong Kong tycoon Stanley Ho that controls several of Macau's casinos and hotels.

現年60歲、被法國當地媒體稱爲“le chinois”（那位中國人）的吳志誠是澳門這塊中國賭博飛地最有影響的賭場經理人之一。他是澳門博彩控股有限公司(SJM Holdings Ltd.)的營運總裁。這家公司由香港富豪何鴻(Stanley Ho)創辦，在澳門擁有多家賭場和酒店。

When Mr. Ng was revealed last week as the buyer of Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin-a 5.7-acre estate with a large run-down chateau that he picked up in May for 8 million ($10 million)-it set off a wave of criticism from local winemakers and politicians. They accused him of potentially destroying France's heritage and uprooting an age-old system of carefully priced land transactions. Burgundy is known for small vineyards that rarely change hands.

吳志誠上週被曝在5月份以800萬歐元（1,000萬美元）的價格買下吉夫瑞・香白丹莊園(Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin)，結果受到法國酒商和政治家的猛烈批評。他們聲稱吳志誠有可能破壞法國的遺產，並顛覆當地土地交易謹慎定價的古老制度。勃艮第以很少易手的小葡萄園而聞名。吉夫瑞・香白丹莊園面積5.7英畝（2.3萬平方米），有一個巨大的破敗酒莊。

Mr. Ng is the second person from Greater China to buy in Burgundy. Earlier this year, a young businessman named Shi Yi teamed up with a local winemaker to buy two hectares in Vosne-Romané, a town that is less than six miles away from Mr. Ng's property.

吳志誠是大中華區第二位在勃艮第從事收購的人。今年早些時候，一位名叫時屹的年輕商人跟當地一位酒商合作，在離吳志誠產業不到六英里（9.7公里）的維森-羅曼尼(Vosne-Romane)買下了兩公頃（2萬平方米）的土地。

The typically media-shy Mr. Ng, who lives in Macau and Hong Kong but also has Portuguese citizenship, responded to the criticism with a written statement. In it he explained his plans, saying that he hired local winemaker Eric Rousseau to manage the estate's production and French architect Christian Laporte, who specializes in historical renovations, to oversee the chateau's restoration.

吳志誠生活在澳門和香港，但也有葡萄牙國籍。通常不願見媒體的吳志誠發表了一份書面聲明來回應批評。在這份聲明中，他解釋了自己的打算，表示已經聘請當地酒商埃裏克•魯索(Eric Rousseau)來打理莊園的生產，並聘請擅長古蹟翻新的法國建築師克里斯蒂安•拉波特(Christian Laporte)負責酒莊的修復。

'It is our goal to bring this enchanted property to its full former glory,' he said in the statement. 'In time, I hope my new Burgundy neighbors will also come to appreciate my sincere passion for great wine.' The wine produced in the Gevrey-Chambertin region is well known among collectors, though this particular vineyard's wine doesn't earn the French system's highest classification.

吳志誠在這份聲明裏說，全面恢復這塊神祕產業的昔日榮耀是我們的目標；我希望一段時間過後，我在勃艮第的新鄰居們也將意識到我釀造美酒的真誠熱情。吉夫瑞•香白丹地區生產的葡萄酒在藏家圈子中享有很高的知名度，不過具體到吳志誠收購的這個葡萄園，其所產葡萄酒並沒有獲得法國體系裏的最高等級。

China's interest in wine has soared in recent years and investors from the mainland already have snapped up several French vineyards-but those purchases have been in the country's largest wine-producing region, Bordeaux. Burgundy is smaller in area and operates on a smaller scale, with farmers tending plots whose size in hectares measures in the single digits, and typically passing them down from one generation to the next. Recently, interest in Burgundy among Chinese wine collectors has risen as prices for Bordeaux wines have fallen.

近幾年中國對葡萄酒的興趣大大提高，內地投資者已經在法國收購了多個葡萄園，不過這些葡萄園都處於法國最大的產酒地區波爾多。勃艮第的面積和經營規模都比波爾多小，當地農戶經營的地塊面積都只有幾公頃，往往是代代相傳。最近隨着波爾多葡萄酒價格下降，中國藏家對勃艮第的興趣越來越高。

Jean-Michel Guillon, a winemaker who led a group that tried to buy Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin for 5 million, is staunchly opposed to the deal, and has called on government to intervene.

酒商讓-米歇爾•吉永(Jean-Michel Guillon)曾率領一個團體，希望以500萬歐元的價格買下吉夫瑞•香白丹莊園。他堅決反對吳志誠的收購，並曾要求政府出面干預。

Mr. Guillon fears that an influx of foreign capital will cause a rapid rise in vineyard prices, which would increase the transfer tax and so make it harder for owners like him to pass on the property to their children. The tax is based on the average price in the current year for a hectare of vines. 'We need to protect this, to keep our heritage and our way of life,' he said.

吉永擔心大量外國資本的涌入將導致葡萄園價格迅速上漲，從而增加轉讓稅，使他這樣的業主更難把產業繼承給子孫。轉讓稅是按照轉讓當年每公頃葡萄園的均價計算的。他說，我們需要保護現在的價格水平，留住我們的遺產和生活方式。