科技公司如何顛覆了硅谷的餐飲業
PALO ALTO, Calif. — It was not so long ago that the aroma of Moroccan spiced prawns and wood-oven pizzas wafted out to a downtown street here from the open-air patio of a once popular eatery called Zibibbo.
加利福尼亞州帕洛阿爾託——不久前，摩洛哥辣蝦與木爐披薩的香味還會從一家名爲Zibibbo的昔日熱門餐館的露天院子裏飄到這裏下城的街頭。
Today that patio is behind locked doors, obscured by frosted glass.
如今，院子大門緊閉，裏頭長滿了凍壞的雜草。
The pizza oven is gone.
披薩烤爐不見了蹤影。
The formerly crowded bar has been converted into a sparsely populated startup space of a dozen engineers, their bikes and whiteboards.
當初人聲鼎沸的酒吧區變成了空曠的初創企業辦公區，有稀稀拉拉的十來名工程師，以及他們的單車和白色書寫板。
After 17 years in operation, the restaurant closed in 2014.
營業17年之後，Zibibbo餐廳於2014年關門大吉。
The space is now an American Express venture capital office and a startup incubator.
騰出的地方如今是美國運通公司(American Express)旗下的一處風險投資辦公室和一個創業孵化器。
All told, more than 70,000 square feet of Palo Alto retail and restaurant space were lost to office space from 2008 to 2015, as the tech bubble drove demand for commercial space downtown.
從2008年到2015年，隨着科技泡沫推高對帕洛阿爾託下城商業空間的需求，共有超過7萬平方英尺（約合6500平方米）的零售與餐飲空間讓位於辦公空間。
It is a story playing out across Silicon Valley, where restaurateurs say that staying afloat is a daily battle with rising rents, high local fees and acute labor shortages.
硅谷處處在上演同樣的故事。餐飲從業者表示，爲了求生，他們每天都要與不斷攀升的房租、高企的當地稅費及嚴重的勞動力短缺做鬥爭。
And tech behemoths like Apple, Facebook and Google are hiring away their best line cooks, dishwashers and servers with wages, benefits and perks that restaurant owners simply cannot match.
此外，蘋果(Apple)、Facebook和谷歌(Google)這樣的科技界巨頭在拿餐館老闆們無法匹敵的薪水、福利及其他一些好處來挖走他們最出色的後廚員工、洗碗工和服務員。
Silicon Valley technologists love to explain how they have disrupted the minutiae of daily life, from our commutes to the ways we share family photos.
硅谷的技術專家喜歡說，他們如何顛覆了我們日常生活的方方面面，從交通出行到分享家人照片的方式。
But along the way, they have also managed to disrupt their local restaurant industry.
然而與此同時，他們也做到了顛覆本地的餐飲行業。
That may not be an issue for tech workers with access to free, farm-fresh cuisine in corporate cafeterias, but for everyone else here it is leaving a void between the takeout cuisine popping up around Palo Alto — picture bento boxes ordered on iPads at a counter — and $500 meals at high-end restaurants.
對於能在公司餐廳吃到農場新鮮採摘的食材做成的免費菜餚的那些科技業人士而言，這大概不是什麼問題，但對這裏的其他人來說，卻要面臨一片真空地帶：帕洛阿爾託提供的，要麼是在各處冒出來的外賣店——想象一下，在櫃檯用iPad點單的便當——要麼是吃一頓要花上500美元的高檔餐廳。
Restaurants as we know them will no longer exist here in the near future, said Howard Bulka, a chef and owner of Howie’s Artisan Pizza in Palo Alto and another restaurant in nearby Redwood City.
在不久的將來，我們瞭解的這種餐館就會在當地不復存在，霍華德•布爾卡(Howard Bulka)說。他是帕洛阿爾託的Howie’s Artisan Pizza店和附近雷德伍德城的另一家餐廳的主廚兼老闆。
Palo Alto is just too tough a row to hoe.
帕洛阿爾托實在是太艱難了。
A lot of people are looking into getting out in one piece or are thinking of leaving the business entirely.
很多人在想着怎麼全身而退，或者是在考慮完全退出餐飲業。
With razor-thin profit margins, restaurateurs find they can increase wages only so much.
餐廳利潤菲薄，業主們發現能給員工漲薪的空間十分有限。
Paying a livable wage is a struggle in Palo Alto, where the average one-bedroom apartment rents for $2,800, the same as in New York City, according to Rent Jungle.
Rent Jungle的數據顯示，帕洛阿爾託一居室公寓的平均月租達2800美元，與紐約城平齊，想在這裏給出能過得去的薪酬並不容易。
Workers have also been driven out of surrounding towns that were previously affordable, like Cupertino and San Jose, where demand from a new influx of tech workers has driven up the average cost of a one-bedroom apartment to more than $2,500.
員工也在被迫搬離曾經宜居的周邊市鎮，比如丘珀蒂諾和聖何塞。新近涌入的大批科技從業者帶來的需求，將這些地方的一居室公寓的平均月租推高至2500美元以上。
Understaffed fast casual restaurants — frozen yogurt, cupcake and tea shops; poké bars; and salad stations where customers order from the counter — have replaced older mom-and-pop restaurants.
人手短缺的休閒快餐——凍酸奶、杯子蛋糕與茶飲店；海鮮沙拉吧；櫃檯點餐的沙拉店——在逐漸取代老式的夫妻餐飲店。
Other newcomers are well-heeled chains like Nobu, the global sushi empire that announced plans to open a restaurant in Palo Alto, and Sweetgreen, the salad chain startup that has raised $95 million in venture capital funding and can offset the costs of doing business in Palo Alto with sales from its more than 50 other locations.
其他一些新來的店鋪包括Nobu和Sweetgreen之類的闊氣的連鎖餐廳。前者是足跡遍佈全球的壽司帝國，已宣佈計劃在帕洛阿爾託開店，後者則是初創連鎖沙拉店，從風險投資公司那裏籌措了9500萬美元，可以用其他逾50家店的收益來彌補在帕洛阿爾託做生意的成本。
Not everyone is so fortunate.
並非每個人都有這樣的運氣。
We’re competing more for staff than we are for guests at this point, said Craig Stoll, a James Beard Award-winning chef and co-owner with his wife, Annie Stoll, of Delfina.
現階段，我們更多地是在爭奪人手，而不是顧客，克雷格•斯托爾(Craig Stoll)說。他是拿過詹姆斯•比爾德獎(James Beard Award)的主廚，與妻子安妮•斯托爾(Annie Stoll)一起開設了名爲Delfina的餐廳。
The Stolls own four restaurants in San Francisco and two in Silicon Valley — one in Burlingame and the other in Palo Alto.
斯托爾夫婦在舊金山開了四家餐廳，在硅谷開了兩家——一家位於伯靈格姆，另一家位於帕洛阿爾託。
They have not been able to fully staff their Silicon Valley locations since they opened about two years ago.
硅谷的這兩家店大約兩年前開張，卻一直沒有招夠員工。
They used to require their line cooks to have particular experience.
他們本來要求後廚擁有一定的工作經驗。
Now we’re just selling ourselves on Craigslist, posting pictures of cooks butchering pigs, sautéing, and good-looking waitresses to recruit staff, Stoll said.
現在我們直接在Craigslist上推銷自己，爲了招人，貼些廚師在殺豬啊，烹飪啊，漂亮女招待之類的照片，斯托爾說。
In the last year, the Stolls have lost several of their best servers and their director of operations to Twitter and Airbnb in San Francisco.
去年的時候，斯托爾夫婦手下最出色的幾名服務員和運營總監跳槽去了舊金山的Twitter和Airbnb。
To compete, the couple have been increasing pay and perks as much as possible, but they say they still often have to close off entire sections of their Silicon Valley restaurants simply because there is not enough staff to service them.
爲了保持競爭力，二人儘量在提高薪資和補貼水平，但他們表示，在硅谷的兩家店還是經常得關閉整片的就餐區，而原因就是沒有足夠的服務員。
Recently, they have resorted to hiring their 14-year-old daughter and her friends to step in.
最近這段時間，他們不得不請14歲的女兒帶着她的朋友來幫忙。
We’re breeding our own workforce at this point, Stoll joked.
我們目前在培育自家的勞動力，斯托爾開玩笑稱。
Just a few blocks from Pizzeria Delfina in Palo Alto, JC Andrade, an owner of Vino Locale, a family-run wine bar, said his bar lost its previous chef to Facebook.
在離帕洛阿爾託的這家Pizzeria Delfina僅幾個街區的地方，有一座家庭經營的葡萄酒吧，名爲Vino Locale。店主J•C•安德雷德(JC Andrade)表示，之前的主廚跳槽去了Facebook。
His family increased workers’ pay and now offers a 401(k) program, but Facebook and Google continue to offer his staff higher wages than Andrade said he makes as owner.
他們家給員工增加了工資，現在還提供401(k)退休福利計劃，可Facebook和谷歌給安德雷德手下員工提供的薪資總是比他自稱作爲老闆掙的錢還多。
Increasingly, he said, he has to beg his 15-year-old brother to pick up shifts.
他表示，自己在越來越多地去請求15歲的弟弟來幫忙輪班。
Last year, Brigette Lau and Chamath Palihapitiya, founders of the venture fund Social Capital, opened Bird Dog, a stylish restaurant downtown.
去年，風險基金社會+資本合夥公司(Social Capital)的創始人布里蓋特•劉(Brigette Lau)與查馬斯•帕裏哈皮蒂亞(Chamath Palihapitiya)在下城開了一家名爲Bird Dog的時髦餐廳。
They had backing from other Silicon Valley investors eager to bring a slice of younger, innovative and relatively affordable San Francisco-style cuisine to downtown Palo Alto.
他們擁有其他一些硅谷投資人的支持，這羣人熱烈期望將新派、創新而又相對物美價廉的舊金山式菜餚帶到帕洛阿爾託下城。
But even with Silicon Valley’s backing and their own substantial means — Palihapitiya is part owner of the Golden State Warriors basketball team — Lau said operating a restaurant in Palo Alto was not for the faint of heart.
不過，就算擁有硅谷的支持，二人又財力雄厚——帕裏哈皮蒂亞是金州勇士隊的老闆之一——劉女士仍然表示，在帕洛阿爾託經營餐廳可不適合心臟不好的人。
I’m supportive of the startup community, but not at the expense of the community, she said.
我本人支持創業羣體，不過這不應該以當地的民衆與企業作爲代價，她說。
