農場到餐桌 再回到農場 City Chefs Gone Country

Prairie Whale, Great Barrington, Mass.

馬薩諸塞州大巴靈頓的草原鯨魚餐廳

As the co-founder of the Brooklyn restaurant group Marlow & Sons (Diner, Roman’s, Reynard at the Wythe Hotel), Mark Firth is responsible for popularizing a certain kind of New York eatery, one that brings the country to the city with food and décor at once rustically understated and shrewdly refined. But several years ago, tempted by visits to the farms from which he was sourcing seasonal ingredients, Firth decided to make the reverse journey, and moved to the Berkshires. When a career as a farmer proved unsustainable — ‘‘We needed the table to go with the farm,’’ he says — he decided to open a place in Great Barrington.

作爲布魯克林餐飲集團Marlow & Sons（旗下擁有Diner、Roman’s，以及威思酒店[Wythe Hotel]內的Reynard等餐廳）的創始人之一，馬克·弗思(Mark Firth)幫助一種餐館模式在紐約日漸興起，他把鄉村的感覺帶到城市，而食物和裝潢必須既樸素低調，又精緻優雅。但是幾年前，爲了挑選當季食材而走訪了幾家農場之後，弗斯決定從城市回到鄉村，於是搬到了伯克希爾。在農民作爲一種職業已經無以爲繼之時，“我們需要用餐桌來搭配農場，”他說，於是決定在大巴靈頓開一家餐館。

The free-standing clapboard house now known as Prairie Whale (a 19th-century euphemism for pig) is meandering and many-chambered — dark and romantic at night, sun-dappled and cozy in the morning — and the food is simple but deeply satisfying: crunchy-skinned buttermilk fried chicken with honey butter, cornbread and greens, and all manner of Firth’s carefully raised pork, including drippy fatty roasted bits sandwiched in squishy potato rolls, and house-made p琀é.

這棟裝有楔形護牆板的獨棟房屋，如今被稱作“草原鯨魚”（Prairie Whale，在19世紀是豬的委婉語），裏面的佈局曲徑通幽，有着很多房間。在夜晚裏，屋裏燈光幽暗，氣氛浪漫。到了上午，陽光斑駁，舒適愜意。這裏的食物很簡單，卻能給人極大的滿足感：外皮酥脆的乳酪炸雞，配以蜂蜜黃油、玉米麪包和綠色蔬菜，以及採用弗思通過精心飼養而獲得的豬肉烹製的各式菜餚，包括夾在軟糯的土豆卷裏的多汁肉塊，還有自制的餡餅。

It’s just an added attraction to this town 120 miles north of New York, with its welcoming community of aging hippies and young artists. Spend a day strolling through galleries and ice cream parlors before checking into the Briarcliff, a 1960s motor lodge converted into a charming boutique hotel, complete with mod furniture and homemade scones. (413)528-5050.

它爲這個紐約以北120英里的城鎮增加了又一個景點。這個友好的社區里居住着老去的嬉皮士和年輕的藝術家。在這裏，人們可以花一天時間逛逛美術館和冰淇淋店，然後再入住迷人的Briarcliff精品酒店，這裏由上世紀60年代的汽車旅館改造而成，有摩登派傢俱，並提供自制的烤餅。(413)528-5050.

The Corner, Tivoli, N.Y.

紐約蒂沃利的Corner餐廳

In 2013, the artists Brice and Helen Marden took over a century-old, 11-room hotel in the middle of Tivoli, an artsy, sleepy Hudson Valley hamlet close enough to Bard College to feel like a college town by association. Though Tivoli, about two hours by car or train from New York City, has long attracted a creative crowd, it had lost some of its allure with the hotel’s shuttering several years before. Now, the Mardens have revived both the building and the town at large with a colorful mix of contemporary, midcentury and custom-made furniture, lighting and décor, plus artworks by the couple and their friends, including Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel and Kiki Smith. But the newly crowned Hotel Tivoli’s real draw might be its restaurant and bar, the Corner, for which the chef Devon Gilroy — formerly of Chanterelle and A Voce — reserves the best local farms’ limited supplies of seasonal produce, sometimes just a few pounds each. A late-fall Saturday found him extolling the splendor of a crop of pimientos de padron, which he had flash-fried and dressed with Greek olive oil, sea salt and a sprinkling of sumac. Seared arctic char (sourced from a small supplier in Boston) was paired with meaty maitakes, foraged nearby, and the herbs and other garnishes came from Gilroy’s own garden, maintained on a plot of land behind one of Brice Marden’s nearby studios.

2013年，藝術家布萊斯(Brice Marden)和妻子海倫·馬登(Helen)接手了一座位於蒂沃利中心地帶的百年酒店，它共有11個房間。蒂沃利是哈得遜河谷的一個具有藝術氣息的慵懶小鎮，距離巴德學院(Bard College)相當近，以至於感覺有些像是一座大學城。雖然蒂沃利長期以來一直吸引着大量創意人士，隨着這家酒店在幾年前關閉，它的吸引力一度有所減弱。如今，馬登夫婦重新爲這座建築和這座城鎮注入了生命力，他們憑藉的是各色當代、上世紀中期以及定製的傢俱、燈具和裝飾，還有就是一些藝術作品，它們來自這對夫婦以及其友人，包括羅伯特·勞申貝格(Robert Rauschenberg)、朱利安·施納貝爾(Julian Schnabel)和奇奇·史密斯(Kiki Smith)。然而，新的蒂沃利酒店的真正吸引力可能源自它的餐吧Corner，曾供職於Chanterelle and A Voce的主廚德文·吉爾羅伊(Devon Gilroy)爲這裏預訂了當地農場的最好當季作物，這些食材都是限量供應，有時每種只有幾斤而已。一個深秋的週六，他對一種小青椒讚不絕口，其烹飪方法是快速過油，然後灑上希臘橄欖油、海鹽和漆樹果粉。烤紅點鮭（來自波士頓的一家小供貨商）會搭配附近採摘的肥厚舞茸，和其他來自吉爾羅伊自家菜園的芳草與配菜。菜園就坐落在附近的布萊斯·馬登工作室後面的一塊土地上。網址：

Fish & Game, Hudson, N.Y.

紐約哈得遜的FISH & GAME

To have a meal at Fish & Game, which Zak Pelaccio opened after becoming disillusioned with his popular New York restaurants, Fatty Crab and Fatty ’Cue, is to feel a bit like you’ve walked onto a movie set. The interior of the former blacksmith shop is resplendently appointed, from the custom-built furniture to the tasteful taxidermy, and the cocktails are mixed with a New Orleans level of yet it’s not all for show: The roaring fireplace doubles as a rotisserie and the food tends to be as delicious as it is beautiful — aged duck breast with crackly charred skin; thick slabs of grainy porridge bread with cultured butter — and, except for seafood, hyper-local. In the antique-shopping mecca of Hudson, just a two-hour drive from Manhattan, Fish & Game has company in other city-worthy upstarts: The restaurant Crimson Sparrow, from a pair of former WD-50 chefs, is blocks away, as is the coyly retro Rivertown Lodge, located in a 1920s movie theater and designed by the same studio as Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel. .

在Fish & Game用餐的感覺有點像進了電影片場。店主扎克·佩拉西奧(Zak Pelaccio)對他在紐約廣受歡迎的餐館Fatty Crab以及Fatty’Cue感到失望之後，開了這家餐廳。這家由鐵匠鋪改造的餐館內部裝潢精美華麗，從特製的傢俱，到格調高雅的標本。在這裏，雞尾酒的調製都帶有一種新奧爾良式的戲劇性。然而這個餐廳絕不僅僅止於表面文章：火焰熊熊的壁爐還可以充當烤肉器，食物不光賞心悅目，還非常美味——陳化的鴨胸肉外酥裏嫩；大塊雜糧麪包搭配發酵過的奶油。而且，除了海鮮之外，這裏的美食都極其本地化。在距離曼哈頓只有兩小時的車程的傳統購物聖地哈德遜，還有其他媲美高檔都市餐廳的同類創業餐廳：Crimson Sparrow，相距這裏幾個街區，店主是兩位前WD-50的廚師；以及位於上世紀20年代留下的一座電影院裏的Rivertown Lodge，其設計出自爲威廉斯堡的Wythe酒店的裝潢操刀的工作室。網址：.

The White Hart Inn, Salisbury, Conn.

康涅狄格州索爾茲伯裏的白鹿旅館

At first glance, the town of Salisbury, two and a half hours by car from New York, seems merely to embody Connecticut clichés: Its tiny, quiet center is both impeccably manicured and impeccably preppy (there are two boarding schools nearby). But the area is also surprisingly rural and activity-rich, with easy access to the Appalachian Trail and hiking paths in the Berkshires. For the English-born chef Annie Wayte, who made her name running the kitchens of the fashion designer Nicole Farhi’s acclaimed London and New York restaurants, Nicole’s and 202, cooking at the town’s 19th-century White Hart Inn feels like something of a homecoming: One of the farms from which she used to source ingredients is just a short drive away. In the elegantly spare dining room, she serves dishes like spaghetti squash bathed in rich broth and capped with a confit egg yolk, and roasted scallops atop beets and al dente kernels of freekeh. Afterward, guests can retire to the taproom for mulled cider, or walk upstairs to one of the inn’s 16 spacious rooms. .

表面上看，距離紐約兩個半小時車程的索爾茲伯裏城似乎只是康涅狄格司空見慣的那副景象：安靜而小巧的中心地帶，整潔得無可挑剔，充斥着一派私立學校氣息（附近有兩所寄宿學校）。但令人吃驚的是，這個區域也有着強烈的鄉村色彩，豐富多樣的活動。而且，人們從這裏很容易抵達阿巴拉契亞國家步道和伯克郡的遠足路徑。在英國出生的主廚安妮·韋特(Annie Wayte)爲時尚設計師妮科爾·法爾希(Nicole Farhi)經營倫敦和紐約的餐館而聲名鵲起。對於韋特來說，在建於19世紀的白鹿賓館做飯，有種回家的感覺：她挑選食材的一家農場開車很快就可以抵達。在這個極簡得很雅緻的餐廳裏，她提供了浸在濃湯裏並鋪有糖漬蛋黃的南瓜絲、放置在甜菜上的烤扇貝，以及嚼勁十足的福裏克穀粒。餐後，客人們可以到酒吧間喝點熱蘋果酒，或者上樓到酒店的16間寬敞客房中休息。網址：