時報力薦純素麻婆豆腐的做法

Mapo tofu, that aromatic dish of braised tofu with minced pork (sometimes beef) in a deeply savory sauce, is a wildly popular menu item in many Chinese restaurants. I gladly order it whenever possible. Just a spoonful or two with steamed rice makes a pleasant beginning to a multicourse meal.

麻婆豆腐是很多中餐館裏非常受歡迎的一道菜。它是用豬肉末（或牛肉末）在鹹辣醬裏燉豆腐，特別美味。只要餐館裏有這道菜，我一定會高興地點它。把一兩勺麻婆豆腐澆到蒸米飯上，會是一頓豐盛大餐的美好開始。

At home, though, mapo tofu can be a light meal on its own. If you need dinner in a hurry, you’ll find it makes a rapid transition from wok to table. Though the dish is complex in flavor, the preparation is surprisingly simple. And even a novice cook can pull it off. It may take a trip to an Asian grocery to obtain the few required ingredients, but some supermarkets can provide them, too.

不過，在家裏，單是麻婆豆腐就能做成一道便餐。如果你需要快速做好晚飯，麻婆豆腐是很好的選擇，因爲它能很快做好上桌。雖然這道菜味道豐富，但是做起來非常簡便。甚至連新手也能做好。可能需要去趟亞洲雜貨店，買幾樣必要的原料，不過有些在一般超市裏也能買得到。

Fermented black beans are necessary, but just a tablespoon. The spicy red fermented broad bean paste from Sichuan Province called doubanjiang is the other key ingredient. (A small jar of each will keep indefinitely in the fridge.) Spring for Sichuan peppercorns, too; their tingly bite complements the hot red pepper and provides roundness.

豆豉是必備的，不過只需一湯匙。紅色的四川辣豆瓣醬是另一個關鍵配料（兩樣各買一小罐，可以在冰箱裏放很長時間）。記得買點花椒，它麻麻的口感與紅辣椒相得益彰，能融合出完美的滋味。

The question is, can mapo tofu be made without meat and still satisfy on every level? Answer: absolutely, positively, yes. This meatless version with fresh shiitake mushrooms is completely satisfying. The chopped shiitake caps stand in nicely (the stems are simmered to make a quick broth). When you taste the finished rust-colored sauce, with ginger, garlic, sesame oil and scallions added to the kicky base, you’ll agree.

問題是，不用肉仍能做出從各方面講都令人滿意的麻婆豆腐嗎？答案是，絕對、一定能。用鮮香菇代替肉做出的麻婆豆腐絲毫不遜色。切碎的香菇帽是肉末的絕佳替代品（香菇梗可以馬上做成湯）。當你品嚐最後做成的放了姜、蒜、香油和大蔥的紅褐色醬汁時，一定會同意我的看法。

Much depends upon the tofu itself (and if you think you’re not a tofu fan, this is a dish that could convert you). Look for the freshest. Buy soft rather than firm tofu for this dish (silken tofu is a bit too delicate). To enhance texture and flavor, give the cubed tofu a brief bath in boiling hot salted water before cooking.

這道菜的味道很大程度上取決於豆腐本身（如果你認爲自己不愛吃豆腐，這道菜可能會改變你的看法）。尋找最新鮮的豆腐。不要買硬豆腐，要買軟豆腐（嫩豆腐又有點太易碎）。燉之前，把切成塊的豆腐放在滾燙的熱鹽水中短時浸泡一下，口感和味道會更好。

At the end, when you add the tofu, take care to cook it gently to keep it from crumbling. Shake the pan to help it settle into the sauce, and give it a nudge with a wooden spoon.

最後，加入豆腐後，要輕柔翻炒，不要弄碎。晃動炒鍋，幫助豆腐融入醬汁，用木勺輕推。

Mapo tofu takes less time to cook than rice, so start the rice first. This is one 30-minute meal that won’t have you feeling harried and breathless by the time it’s ready. It’s incentive to go meatless any day of the week.

做麻婆豆腐需要的時間比蒸米飯要短，所以要先把飯做好。這餐飯總共只需30分鐘，做完後，你不會覺得筋疲力竭，氣喘吁吁。它是你在一週任何一天實行素食的動力。