英格蘭沒進決賽，但是主帥的馬甲火了！如何把馬甲穿出時尚範瞭解一下

在昨晚的比賽中，英格蘭隊在加時賽遭克羅地亞隊逆轉，已無緣大力神杯。但在賽場之外，英格蘭隊主帥索斯蓋特卻成爲本屆世界盃最有名的帶貨王，把馬甲襯衫穿出了時尚範兒。

England soccer manager Gareth Southgate is launching a revival.

英格蘭隊主帥蓋雷斯•索斯蓋特帶動了一波復興潮。

Not only has he rejuvenated an England side that had previously not reached a World Cup semi-final in 28 years, but he's also brought the waistcoat back from the dead.

他不僅率領已28年無緣世界盃半決賽的英格蘭隊成功打入四強，還帶火了已經在時尚圈沉寂已久的馬甲。

British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) says its waistcoat sales have doubled since the World Cup began on June 14, and searches for the garment on its website are up over 100%.

英國瑪莎百貨稱，自從世界盃6月14日開賽以來，馬甲銷量已經翻倍，官網上馬甲搜索量也已經翻番。

Some customers even reported that M&S waistcoats had sold out in some sizes.

還有些顧客說瑪莎百貨一些碼的馬甲已經缺貨。

"Gareth's sideline style has meant our waistcoats are really scoring with our customers with sales doubling since the World Cup began," an M&S spokesperson said. "We've got enough different styles in stock for everyone to show their support for the boys."

瑪莎百貨一位發言人說：“索思蓋特在球場邊的着裝帶火了馬甲，自世界盃開賽以來，馬甲銷量已經翻倍。我們的馬甲款式足夠多，所有人都可以以此表達他們對英格蘭隊的支持。”

EBay has also reported a 25% increase in searches for waistcoats and tailoring retailer TM Lewin tweeted that sales were "going through the stadium roof."

易趣網上馬甲的搜索量也已經增長了25%，製衣公司TM Lewin也在其推特上表示，馬甲銷量已經“直衝雲霄”。

England's semi-final clash against Croatia has been dubbed "Waistcoat Wednesday" by leading blood cancer charity Bloodwise.

血癌大型慈善機構“智慧血液”把英格蘭隊與克羅地亞隊的半決賽之戰稱爲“馬甲星期三”。

"As the whole country is gripped by football fever, and with Gareth's waistcoat-wearing having elevated him to the level of footballing fashionista, we thought that urging people to wear waistcoats on Wednesday would be a way of getting behind the boys at the same as raising money for a good cause," said Gemma Peters, chief executive of Bloodwise.

該機構董事長吉瑪•彼得斯說：“整個英國都在爲足球瘋狂。索斯蓋特身穿馬甲的形象讓他成爲綠茵場的時尚偶像。我們認爲鼓勵大家在週三穿馬甲既可以對英格蘭隊表示支持，還可以以此爲慈善募捐。”
Southgate is something of an unlikely fashionista, though. On his new role as a style icon, Southgate told the BBC's Gabby Logan: "As a centre-half with a face like I've got, then that's a very rare position to be in. I'm not David Beckham, so, we're in trouble Gabby!"

但索斯蓋特看起來不像是個時尚咖。在成爲時尚偶像後，他告訴英國廣播公司的加比•洛根說：“作爲一個其貌不揚的中衛，成爲時尚界新寵不太尋常。我不是大衛•貝克漢姆，所以現在你看，我遇到麻煩了。”

So popular is the manager's sartorial look, though, that the craze has transcended English buyers.

索斯蓋特的馬甲着裝也讓英國之外的人們着迷。

"I saw him at England versus Colombia and I thought: 'He looks good,'" Ivan Novikov, a Moscow tax consultant, told The Telegraph. "I don't even know his name."

莫斯科一位稅務顧問伊萬•諾維科夫告訴《每日電訊報》說：“英格蘭對陣哥倫比亞的比賽中我就注意到他了，我當時就想，‘他看上去太帥了’。我連他的名字都不知道。”

如何把馬甲穿出時尚範？

怎樣才能把馬甲穿出英格蘭主帥的時尚範？商業內幕網爲此採訪了傑克•戴維森定製服裝店的製衣商。

1. 確保馬甲的長度能蓋住襯衫。

"When wearing a waistcoat, the key things to look out for are making sure that it's long enough to cover your shirt entirely — with no gap between the waistcoat and trousers," Jack Stammers and Will Davison, the men behind the London tailors, said.

這家倫敦時裝店的老闆傑克•斯塔莫斯和威爾•戴維森說：“穿馬甲關鍵是要注意確保馬甲夠長，能蓋住整個襯衫，這樣馬甲和褲子之間不會有襯衫露出來。”

Many fans have been caught out breaking this golden rule — here's a good example of how not to wear it:

很多馬甲粉的穿着方式都是不對的，下面就是個錯誤的例子：

Not so chic. REUTERS / Henry Nicholls

2. 不要繫腰帶

Davison and Stammers also say you shouldn't wear a belt if you're opting for a waistcoat as "this can add unneeded bulk to the waist with the extra layer and also break up the line of the suit."

戴維森和斯塔莫斯還說，穿馬甲時不要繫腰帶，因爲“這會讓腰部肥上一圈，根本沒必要，還會毀掉服裝的線條。”

3. 馬甲要合身，但不要太緊

The fit is also very important. Eagle-eyed viewers will notice that Southgate's vest is fitted without being tight, which Davison and Stammers say is key. "[It] can be a tricky balance. If having your suit made, request a tonal lining for the back to avoid looking like a snooker player or waiter."

合身也很重要。眼尖的觀衆會注意到，索斯蓋特的馬甲很合身，但又不緊，戴維森和斯塔莫斯都說這很關鍵。“這個度不太好把握。如果你專門定製，就要求在背部加一條配色線，這樣就不會看起來像是斯諾克檯球選手或者服務生了。”

The tailors say prospective waistcoat-wearers should look to another former footballer Rio Ferdinand for inspiration, who's recently been extolled by GQ for his style.

他們還說，想把馬甲穿出範兒的人還應該向前球星里奧•費迪南德取取經，最近GQ雜誌還稱讚了他的衣品。

4. 留一顆釦子

One piece of waistcoat etiquette that both Southgate and Ferdinand fail to observe, though, is leaving one button on the vest unfastened — either top or bottom. It's not clear when this rule was developed, but one theory suggests it was King Edward VII who popularised the style because he was too portly to do all the buttons up.

但索斯蓋特和費迪南德都沒有做到的是，應該留一顆釦子，最上面或者最下面的一顆都行。人們並不清楚這種穿衣風格由何而來，但有一種說法認爲，英國國王愛德華七世是這種穿法的普及者，因爲他太胖，系不上所有的扣子。