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整容客戶低齡化 元兇竟是自拍?大綱

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Plastic surgery clients are trending younger globally, and doctors and psychologists are pointing to the rise of social media as playing a role.

全球整容手術的客戶都呈年輕化趨勢,醫生和心理學家指出,這是受社交媒體興起的影響。

According to a report in the South China Morning Post, not only is the number of aesthetic plastic surgery cases—including cosmetic procedures like rhinoplasty, facelifts, and lip augmentations—on the rise globally, but the average age of clients is also dropping. Of the 22 million Chinese who underwent cosmetic procedures in 2018, clients under age 28 accounted for 54% (nearly 12 million) of patients. Teenagers, meanwhile, accounted for 8% of total procedures. Comparatively, in western European nations, the average age dropped from 42 to 37 in 2018; in the US, over 200,000 teens aged 13 to 19 had aesthetic plastic surgery in 2017, but only made up 1% of total US procedures.

據《南華早報》的一篇報道,不光是全球美容整形手術——包括隆鼻、拉皮、豐脣在內的整容手術——的數量在增加,客戶的平均年齡也在下降。2018年接受整容手術的2200萬中國人中,28歲以下的客戶佔54%(近1200萬)。與此同時,青少年佔到了總量的8%。相比而言,西歐國家2018年的平均整容年齡從42歲降到了37歲。在美國,超20萬13歲至19歲的青少年在2017年做了美容整形手術,但只佔到美國整容手術總量的1%。

Doctors, surgeons, and psychiatrists are pointing to selfie-led social media culture as driving the rise of aesthetic surgery among young people. That's a departure from what surgeons say marked plastic surgery trends of the early aughts, when people brought in pictures of celebrities and models and asked for features to better match them.

內外科醫生和精神病醫生指出,以自拍爲主導的社交媒體文化促使更多年輕人去做美容手術。這背離了醫生所說的整容手術早期的標誌性趨勢,那時候人們都是拿着名人和模特的照片前來,要求把五官整成名人的樣子。

Julian De Silva, a plastic surgeon based in London's Harley Street, confirmed to SCMP that social media "is heavily influencing plastic surgery trends and cosmetic treatments." In the last five years, he's noticed that "patients are taking more photos of themselves than ever, and as a result they are far more self-conscious about their appearance. Flaws they would previously have ignored have, since the advent of social media, plagued them."

倫敦哈利街的一名整容醫生朱利安·德·席爾瓦向《南華早報》證實,社交媒體“對整容手術趨勢和美容治療產生了很大影響”。在過去五年間,朱利安注意到,“客戶給自己拍的照片比過去都要多,結果就是他們對外表比以前敏感得多。自從社交媒體興起後,原先會被忽視的缺陷開始困擾他們。”

"Snapchat dysmorphia," a phenomenon coined in a 2018 paper published in a JAMA Facial Plastic Surgery Viewpoint by Boston University researchers, refers to a trend in which people are bringing plastic surgeons their own heavily doctored or filtered selfies, and requesting tolook more like their photos. The report noted that 55% of plastic surgeons cite seeing patients who want to improve their appearance in selfies, a request that comes more often from teens, who are more frequent social media users than older adults.

2018年波士頓大學研究人員發表在《美國醫學會雜誌整容觀點》上的一篇論文創造了一個新詞——“Snapchat畸形恐懼症”,指的是人們帶着自己精修或美顏過的自拍照請醫生把自己整得更像照片模樣的一種趨勢。報告指出,55%的整形外科醫生聲稱曾見過想改善自己的自拍形象的客戶,提出這種要求的更多的是青少年,他們使用社交媒體比成年人更頻繁。

整容客戶低齡化 元兇竟是自拍?

Although Snapchat dysmorphia is not an official mental disorder listed in the DSM, the report highlighted its similarities to body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), a disorder classified on the obsessive-compulsive spectrum characterized by people going to great, often harmful lengths, to hide perceived imperfections and affects roughly 2% of Americans.

儘管“Snapchat畸形恐懼症”沒有被列入精神障礙病症的官方名錄,但報告強調了Snapchat畸形恐懼症和身體畸形恐懼症的相似性。身體畸形恐懼症是強迫症的一種,表現特徵是人們採用極端的通常是有害的手段來隱藏自己認爲不完美的地方,約有2%的美國人患有此病。

Indeed, the negative effects social media can have on mental health and wellbeing are well documented. A 2017 survey by Britain's Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH), a health education charity, ranked Instagram as the #1 worst social media network for its associations with anxiety and depression, with Snapchat following closely behind. Following the RSPH survey, research from Carmen Papaluca of Notre Dame revealed a connection between Instagram and mental health, particularly in young, female Instagram users. Specifically, findings from the study reported that women in their late teens and early 20s found that the app negatively impacted body image.

實際上,社交媒體對心理健康和幸福度造成的負面影響是有據可查的。2017年英國皇家公共衛生協會(一個健康教育慈善機構)開展的一項調查將Instagram列爲影響最壞的頭號社交媒體網站,因爲該網站會引發焦慮和抑鬱,Snapchat緊隨其後。接着,聖母大學的卡門·帕帕盧卡開展的一項研究揭示出Instagram和心理健康之間的聯繫,尤其是針對Instagram年輕女性用戶。具體而言,研究結果發現,20歲左右的女性發現Instagram對身體形象造成了負面影響。

And the rise of selfie culture has coincided with a greater access to cosmetic beauty procedures. In the US, wrinkle-reducer Botox and dermal filler Juvéderm are being marketed to 20-somethings over its core clientele, women over 40. Meanwhile, a wave of Instagram-friendly clinics like Alchemy 43, Kate Somerville, and Skin Laundry have popularized medical beauty treatments, including services like Botox, fillers, lip injections, and laser treatments, for the under-30 crowd.

自拍文化的興起恰逢整形美容手術的普及。在美國,商家向20多歲的人推銷抗皺的肉毒桿菌素和皮下填充劑喬雅登,他們對這部分客戶的重視程度超過了核心客戶——40歲以上的女性。與此同時,一大波對Instagram友好的診所(如Alchemy 43、凱特薩默維爾、Skin Laundry等)紛紛推廣醫療美容,包括對30歲以下人羣進行肉毒桿菌素注射、填充、豐脣、激光治療等服務。

The SCMP notes that a 2018 report released by Chinese cosmetic procedure platform Gengmei found that the number of cosmetic surgery clinics opening last year increased by 10% compared with 2017. And according to the Chinese online magazine Sixth Tone, Gengmei and its competitor, the cosmetic-surgery social app SoYoung, saw their communities skyrocket, with the former noting that 36 million users and 20,000 certified surgeons joined the app in the past few years. Sixth Tone also notes that Chinese clients are likely influenced by neighboring South Korea, where European and K-pop beauty standards—big eyes, slim noses, etc.—are pervasive, and about one-third of women under 30 have had plastic surgery. Indeed, double-eyelid surgery, a procedure that seeks to produce bigger, Western-looking eyes, has become a common 18th birthday present.

《南華早報》指出,2018年中國整形平臺更美APP發佈的一份報告稱,去年新開的整容診所相比2017年增加了10%。另外,據中國“第六聲”網站報道,更美APP與其競爭對手整形社交應用新氧APP發現,它們的社區人氣暴漲,前者指出,過去幾年有3600萬名用戶和2萬名獲得認證的醫師加入了更美APP。“第六聲”還指出,中國客戶可能是受到鄰國韓國的影響,在那裏歐洲和韓流審美標準(比如大眼睛和窄鼻子)無處不在,30歲以下的韓國女性約有三分之一做過整容手術。打造西方人般的大眼睛的雙眼皮手術已經成爲普遍的18歲生日禮物。