巴黎時裝週的六大時尚

The season reached its triumphant finale with gothic tragediennes, a Technicolor menagerie — and some very challenging trousers

發佈今年秋冬季時裝潮流的巴黎時裝週已拉下帷幕，下半年都有些什麼時尚潮流呢？

Abstracted animal print

一、抽象風格的動物圖紋

Herds of models charged the runway in every incarnation of animal print. Game-hunters will be stalking the shops for Dior’s vinyl giraffe boots, the neon cheetah prints at Kenzo, and Louis Vuitton’s leopard and leather prizes. Double points for Miu Miu though, which took the whole safari down the catwalk in crocodile cirés, big cat cottons, python skins and patent leathers.

模特們身穿各種動物圖紋裝亮相T型臺。潮男潮女屆時定會蜂擁至各時尚門店，搶購迪奧(Dior)飾有長頸鹿圖紋的乙烯基塑料長靴、高田賢三(Kenzo)的霓虹色豹紋裝以及路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的豹紋及皮草珍品。然而，Miu Miu可謂“一石二鳥”，它就如同把整個動物園搬上了T型臺——印有鱷魚圖紋的蠟光裝、印有大型貓科動物圖紋的棉布裝、蟒皮裝以及漆皮裝。

Mannish jackets

二、男式外套

Big, boxy and often blouson, jackets took their lead from the men this season. At Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry tempered feminine laces with oversized structured blazers, while Vivienne Westwood offered an enormous shoulder shape (“It makes the head look smaller,” she observed). At Loewe, a buffalo bomber helped add a futuristic 1980s flavour, while at Akris it was 50 shades of grey.

直筒大款束腰形男式夾克引領這個時裝季。蓮娜•麗姿(Nina Ricci)創意總監紀堯姆•亨利(Guillaume Henry)用女式蕾絲來“中和”超大款運動夾克，而薇薇恩•韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)則推出了超寬肩版的外套（她如此評述，“這樣一來讓頭顯得小多了”）；羅意威(Loewe)推出的印有水牛圖紋的短夾克（bomber，腰部和袖口帶有鬆緊帶）增添了一絲上世紀80年代未來派的意味，而艾克瑞斯(Akris)推出了50道灰色陰影風格的(50 shades of grey)外套。

Victoriana

三、維多利亞時代(Victoriana)的風格

Tattered glamour and washed silks at Céline, a waitress fit for a Manet painting at Chanel and Egon Schiele-style waifs at Alexander McQueen: the week was infused with the Belle Époque. Even Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, the king of street couture, dressed his Mexican chola girls in peacock-printed silks and Victorian velvets.

賽琳(Céline)推出了殘缺美的女裝以及水洗過的絲綢裝，香奈兒(Chanel)推出的女裝就猶如馬奈(Manet)油畫中的侍女裝，亞歷山大•麥奎(Alexander McQueen)推出的時裝穿在奧匈帝國時期畫家埃貢•席勒(Egon Schiele)畫筆下的流浪兒身上再合適不過了：本屆時裝週充斥着“美好時代”（Belle Époque，指歐洲19世紀末至一戰爆發前那段和平、繁榮的時期）的時尚風。即便紀梵希創意總監、街頭時尚女裝之王裏卡爾多•蒂希(Riccardo Tisci)也用孔雀圖紋的絲綢裝與維多利亞時代風格的天鵝絨來裝扮他的墨西哥Chola風格的女模特（Chola詞源於1851年西班牙人殖民南美洲時，與北方墨西哥的阿茲特克人混血所生下的下一代稱爲Chola，直到1970年後因幾乎無純正的阿茲特克人，而將南美拉丁裔統稱Chola，這種穿環、刺青的民族風格傳到美國洛杉磯後便成爲所謂的Chola風--譯者注）。

High-waisted trousers

四、高腰褲

Waistbands — often cinched and belted, some with paper-bag frills — are on the rise. From sorbet-coloured skinnies with patch pockets at Carven to fluid jacquard silks at Stella McCartney and the skinniest of Saint Laurent tuxedos, the trousers were ankle-skimming and soared up above the navel. Do your legs look long in these? Sure, just as long as you can wiggle into them.

腰帶（通常系肚帶與束帶，有些則是紙帶飾邊）型時裝不斷增多。不管是卡芬(Carven)帶有貼袋的冰沙色緊身裝、斯特拉•麥卡特尼(Stella McCartney)優雅自然的提花絲綢裝，還是聖羅蘭超瘦版晚禮服，所配褲子都是下抵腳踝，上過肚臍。穿上這樣的褲子，諸位是不是感覺腿長了？沒錯，穿上後襬動時，感覺腿就如同褲管那樣長了。

Gloves

五、手套

Black gloves were the most practical accessory trend to come out of Paris. Mostly crafted in leather, they came in all forms — from fingerless at Yohji Yamamoto to croc-printed at Balenciaga, and elbow-length with ruching details at Elie Saab.

黑手套是本屆巴黎秋冬季時裝週最爲實用的流行性配飾。多數手套用皮革打造，款式一應俱全——從山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)的露指手套到巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的鱷魚圖紋手套、再到艾莉•薩博(Elie Saab)齊肘長手套（其褶飾經過精心打造），可謂應有盡有。

Tassels

六、流蘇

From gypsy plaits at Chloé to belted braiding at Lanvin, tassels were the trimming of choice. Chitose Abe crafted geometric-print leather to edge belts and scarves at Sacai, while over at Olympia Le Tan it was a sumptuous affair, where gold tassels adorned velvets in royal shades.

從蔻依(Chloé)吉普賽風格的辮繩到朗萬(Lanvin)的束帶款穗帶，流蘇都是精心打造的配飾。日本時尚品牌Sacai的設計師阿部千登勢(Chitose Abe)用帶有幾何圖案的皮子手工給皮帶與絲巾鑲邊，而Olympia Le Tan則極盡奢華之能事，她用皇家色調的天鵝絨點綴金黃色流蘇。