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紐約時裝週上來自中國的時尚博主

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紐約時裝週上來自中國的時尚博主

With a name like Leaf Greener (a literal translation of her Chinese name, Ye Zi) and clothing that ranges from a yolk-yellow Rosie Assoulin pantsuit at noon to a lacy Givenchy evening gown after dark, surely you can make an impression during New York Fashion Week.

名字叫Leaf Greener(中文名“葉子”的字面翻譯),中午穿蛋黃色Rosie Assoulin褲套裝,晚上穿紀梵希(Givenchy)晚裝——這些肯定會在紐約時裝週(New York Fashion Week)期間給人留下深刻印象。

And that’s exactly what the Beijing-raised, Shanghai-based Ms. Greener had in mind.

這正是在北京長大、在上海居住的葉子想要的。

Ms. Greener left Elle China last October after more than six years as senior fashion editor to strike out on her own as a stylist and fashion consultant. She kicked off New York Fashion Week last Wednesday by hobnobbing with some of fashion’s and beauty’s elite at an intimate cocktail party at the Fifth Avenue penthouse of Leonard Lauder. (She is currently featured in an Estée Lauder campaign in the Asia-Pacific region.)

去年10月,在《Elle》中國版擔任高級時尚編輯六年多之後,葉子離開那裏,開始自己做造型師和時尚顧問。上週三,在紐約時裝週開幕前晚,在倫納德·勞德(Leonard Lauder)第五大道頂層公寓的一個私密雞尾酒會上,葉子與時尚界和模特界的一些精英人物親密交談(目前,她在雅詩蘭黛[Estée Lauder]亞太區的廣告宣傳中擔任重要角色)。

By Friday, she had partied until 6 a.m. the night before, she confessed, but was doggedly doing the rounds of the young designers’ shows. “That’s what I care about most when I’m in New York, the new designers,” she said, looking inexplicably collected in her yellow suit despite the sweltering heat at Ms. Assoulin’s outdoor presentation. “They don’t call it Old York,” Ms. Greener added, laughing hard.

週五,她承認自己前晚在派對上一直玩到早上6點,但她還是堅持去觀看年輕設計師們的時裝秀。“我在紐約最關心的就是新設計師,”她說。儘管Rosie Assoulin的時裝秀是在戶外舉行,天氣悶熱,葉子還是穿着黃色套裝,看起來有一種無法言喻的泰然自若。“因爲這裏是紐約,不是舊約,”葉子大笑着補充道。

She whipped out her iPhone, housed in a case bought in Hong Kong that looked like a slice of cake, to take a video of the presentation for her Instagram account. She has nearly 100,000 followers on Instagram, even though it is banned in China, she pointed out, plus an even more devoted following on Chinese channels like WeChat and Weibo. “Everyone is on there or is moving to there,” Ms. Greener said, referring to WeChat. She publishes a mobile-only magazine on the platform.

她掏出iPhone——手機殼是在香港買的,看起來像一塊蛋糕——爲自己的Instagram賬戶拍攝了一段時裝秀的視頻。她在Instagram上有將近10萬名粉絲,雖然該網站在中國遭到屏蔽。她指出,在微信和微博等中國社交媒體上,她有更多鐵桿粉絲。“每個人都用微信,或者說越來越多的人開始用微信,”葉子說。她在微信上做一本僅供手機閱讀的雜誌。

Her fashion influence in China is such that brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Lanvin have come calling (Ms. Greener consults or styles for them) and emerging brands vie for her attention. Ms. Assoulin, for one, greeted Ms. Greener enthusiastically, yelling out, “Leafie!”

她在中國的時尚影響力如此之大,香奈兒(Chanel)、路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和浪凡(Lanvin)等品牌已經主動跟她聯繫(葉子擔任這些品牌的顧問或造型師),越來越多的品牌在爭奪她的關注。比如,羅茜·阿蘇利納(Rosie Assoulin)女士就熱情地大聲招呼她:“葉子!”

She’s also featured in the Business of Fashion’s listing for people shaping the fashion industry.

她還入選Business of Fashion網站的時尚界最具影響力人物榜單。

“Fashion in China is changing,” Ms. Greener said between social media photos. “Before, it was all about logos and labels. It’s very similar to Russia in that way. You know, the communist country thing. But now people are interested in local young designers, and that’s an amazing thing. There are more contemporary fashion labels available now for the middle class.”

“中國的時尚在變化,”在爲社交媒體拍攝照片的間歇,葉子說道,“以前,人麼只關心品牌。在那一方面,很像俄羅斯。你知道,共產主義國家都那樣。但是現在,人們對當地年輕設計師也很有興趣,這真是讓人振奮。現在有更多當代時裝品牌可供中產階級選擇。”

Compared to New Yorkers, she said, Chinese women are more willing to take fashion risks and perhaps to go for a full head-to-toe look, but they’re not as different as some in fashion may think.

她說,與紐約人相比,中國女人更願意在時裝上冒險,也許會來一個從頭到腳的全面造型,但是她們並不像時尚界的某些人以爲的那麼與衆不同。

“In Beijing, women will wear a lot of color and there’s more bling — it’s like L.A.,” Ms. Greener said. “In Shanghai, they like black or less obvious colors. They care about trends, and it’s more sophisticated like New York. Actually Beijing and Shanghai hate each other, so it really is like L.A. and New York. It’s good that I have a bit of both.”

“北京女人會穿各種顏色的服裝,更加耀眼,就像洛杉磯女人,”葉子說,“而上海女人喜歡黑色或不太張揚的顏色。她們更關心潮流,更精緻,就像紐約女人。實際上,北京和上海相互鄙視,所以真的很像洛杉磯和紐約。好在我兩者兼具。”