旅遊貼士:本地達人帶你玩轉雅典

The last decade has been a real roller-coaster ride for Greece. The country was on a high when it went on a spending spree to host the 2004 Olympics. Several years later Greece was begging for a bailout. Athens was hit especially hard by the global financial crisis: Storefronts and residential buildings were shuttered; young people returned to rural villages, unable to find work.

在過去的十年裏，希臘真實地經歷了一把如過山車般跌宕起伏的經濟。2004年時揮金如土舉辦奧運會的繁華景象尚在眼前，幾年後希臘卻只能四處乞求別國的救助。全球金融危機對雅典的衝擊尤其劇烈，商店、住宅人去樓空，年輕人因爲找不到工作紛紛回到鄉下的家中。

But crisis can breed creativity, and while all is not completely sunny -- as evidenced by the car bomb in the city this week -- the aura of gloom is clearing. There are new organic grocery stores in neighborhoods like Syntagma Square, where grand hotels and fur boutiques have long reigned. Coffee and cocktail joints are bringing buzz to an area near Agia Irini Square that was dominated by a languishing garment industry. Homegrown fashion brands, including Dimitris Petrou and Dea Rosa, have taken over spaces left vacant by high-end names. The royal family just moved back to Athens after decades in exile.

雅典旅遊攻略不過危機也能催生創新。雅典城的天空雖然還沒有完全放晴（最近發生的汽車炸彈事件便是明證），但是籠罩四周的陰霾正在逐漸散去。像在憲法廣場(Syntagma Square)周邊這種一直是高檔酒店、皮毛精品店統治的地區，新出現了一些有機食品店。埃瑞尼·阿吉亞廣場(Agia Irini Square)地區也開始有了咖啡和雞尾酒吧，爲這片曾經是日漸衰敗的服裝業佔據主導地位的地區帶來了勃勃生機。包括Dimitris Petrou和Dea Rosa等在內的本地時裝品牌已經填補了高端大牌撤離後留下的空白。皇室成員在經歷了數十年逃亡生涯後，不久前也搬回了雅典。

The sense of renewal extends to the city's cultural life. TAF/the Art Foundation and six d.o.g.s. -- organizations that combine gallery spaces with food, drink and live entertainment -- have come to Athens's former flea-market district. Collaborations between traditional museums and younger institutions, including the Benaki Museum's effort with the Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art, are spicing up exhibitions and events. The National Museum of Contemporary Art finally opens its doors this summer; the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, designed by Renzo Piano, is scheduled for completion in 2015. Even the Caryatids, statues that have watched the world go by from the Acropolis for more than 2,000 years, are getting a face-lift. Their restoration will be on view in the Acropolis Museum through the end of the year. Like the city itself, they're getting prepped for the spotlight -- again.

雅典的文化領域同樣也在煥發勃勃生機。TAF/the Art Foundation以及將畫廊與餐飲和現場演出相結合的組織six d.o.g.s.已經進駐曾爲跳蚤市場的地區。在傳統博物館和新興機構的合作下，展覽、演出等活動層出不窮，比如貝納基博物館(Benaki Museum)和戴斯特當代藝術基金會(Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art)的合作等。國家當代藝術博物館(The National Museum of Contemporary Art)今年夏天終於開門迎客；由倫佐·皮亞諾(Renzo Piano)設計的斯塔夫羅斯-尼亞爾霍斯基金會文化中心(Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center)也計劃於2015年完工。甚至在雅典衛城(Acropolis)中見證了2,000多年曆史變遷的女像柱(Caryatids)也將被翻修重整。它們的重整工作將在衛城博物館(Acropolis Museum)對公衆開放參觀，並一直持續到年底。和雅典城一樣，它們已經準備好了再次走到聚光燈下。

THE COOK: Argiro Barbarigou

阿爾吉羅·巴爾巴里高廚師：阿爾吉羅·巴爾巴里高(Argiro Barbarigou)

Chef and owner of Papadakis and Homey

Papadakis and Homey的大廚和老闆

TREAT SPOT // Sweet Alchemy Parliaros. There is no better baker or pastry chef in Greece than my friend Stelios Parliaros. When I wanted to learn how to up my game with pastry, I studied with him. He makes perfect truffles, which you can taste and buy at this chic bakery and shop. Irodotou 24,

美食//Sweet Alchemy Parliaros。在希臘，沒有哪個烘焙師、糕點師比得上我的朋友斯泰利奧斯·帕裏阿羅斯(Stelios Parliaros)。以前我想提高烘焙技能的時候，就是找他學的。他做的松露堪稱完美，你可以在這家別緻的烘焙店裏購買品嚐。地址：Irodotou 街24號；網址：。

INTERNATIONAL ACCESSORIES // Luisa. There are two locations in Athens, but my favorite boutique is in Kolonaki, where my restaurant is. It's my go-to shop for designer handbags and shoes. I usually go once a season and stock up on a few perfect items. Skoufa 15,

國際配飾// Luisa。它在雅典有兩家精品門店，我最喜歡的一家在柯洛納基區(Kolonaki)，就在我的餐館附近。它是我購買設計師手袋和鞋的必去之處。我通常每季去一次，屯上幾件完美的物品。地址：Skoufa街15號；網址：。

GREAT INGREDIENTS // Moiropoulous Dimitrios. This tiny shop is filled with treasures: dried figs, the best feta cheese in Greece, thyme honey from the Peloponnese. Hundreds of products. Emmanouil Benaki, 31, 30-210-3818846

精彩雜貨店// Moiropoulous Dimitrios。這個小小的店鋪裏面滿是寶藏：無花果乾、希臘最好的菲達奶酪、來自伯羅奔尼撒(Peloponnese)的百里香蜂蜜。數百種商品。地址：Emmanouil Benaki街 31號；電話：30-210-3818846。

TOP COIFF // Love Is in the Hair. Christos Michailidis is the best hairdresser in the city. He cuts the hair of many of the country's biggest celebrities. Kifissia 146,

頂級髮廊// Love Is in the Hair。克里斯托斯·米凱利迪斯(Christos Michailidis)是雅典城最棒的美髮師。城裏許多最大牌的明星都會找他做頭髮。地址：Kifissia街 146號；網址：。

NATURAL LIFT // Theano Bella Spa. I started going to Theano Bella three years ago. If you saw pictures of me before you would notice the difference her facials and creams have made. Her products are only available in the spa. She is also famous for her cellulite treatments. I swear they work. Leof. Amfitheas 103,

自然的養護// Theano Bella Spa。我是三年前開始來Theano Bella水療館的。如果你對比我來前後的照片，你就會注意到她這裏面膜和麪霜的效果。她的產品只在水療館裏使用。她的去脂護理也很有名，我發誓它們真的管用。地址：Leof. Amfitheas街103號；網址：。

THE ARISTOCRAT: Prince Nikolaos of Greece

希臘尼古勞斯(Nikolaos)王子貴族：希臘尼古勞斯(Nikolaos)王子

Son of King Constantine II

希臘國王康斯坦丁二世(King Constantine II)的兒子

MORNING RAMBLE // Parnitha. When I'm feeling adventurous, I wake up before sunrise and head to Parnitha, a forested mountain range north of Athens, for the stunning scenery. On the way back down, the air is filled with the smell of freshly baked bread from little bakeries that offer very tasty koulouria pastries, which I love to have with my morning coffee.

清晨漫步//帕尼薩山(Parnitha)。每當我想找點刺激的時候，我就會在日出之前起牀，去雅典城北邊樹木繁茂的帕尼薩山看那裏絕美的景緻。回來的路上，空氣中瀰漫着小烘焙坊裏新鮮烤麪包的味道，我喜歡這裏非常美味的克魯利(koulouria)糕點，用它來配我的清晨咖啡再好不過。

MONUMENTAL GALLERY // Acropolis Museum. It is truly impressive and one of my favorites -- a sleek, modern building housing of some of the earliest examples of architecture and sculpture, which were made with one of my preferred materials: marble. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15,

不朽的藝術長廊//衛城博物館。它實在是非同凡響，是我的最愛之一。博物館建築線條柔和，極富現代感，館藏建築和雕塑的最早期範例，而且用的還是我最愛的材料：大理石。地址：Dionysiou Areopagitou街15號；網址：。

HISTORIC STROLL // Plaka and Monastiraki. During warmer months I love to walk around these neighborhoods in Central Athens, with their many little shops and restaurants. The walk ends up at the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos in the ancient Agora. It is the oldest part of the city; it has an intimate feel to it.

閒步歷史//普拉卡(Plaka)區和蒙納斯提拉奇(Monastiraki)區。在天氣比較暖和的月份，我喜歡在雅典市中心的這兩個地區走走，看看裏面衆多的小店和餐館。最後我會走到古代集會所裏重建的阿塔羅斯柱廊(Stoa of Attalos)。這裏是雅典城最古老的一部分，讓我有種親切感。

CHARISMATIC CAFE // Athinai Bistrot. Very close to the Acropolis Museum is this affordable restaurant, which serves excellent Greek dishes with a twist. The produce is all sourced from within the country. Makrigianni 3, 30-21-0922-9210

魅力餐館// Athinai Bistrot。離衛城博物館非常近，價格親民，有上好的改良希臘菜。食材均取自希臘國內。地址：Makrigianni街3號；電話：30-21-0922-9210。

MOVIE SCENE // Cine Paris. In the summer months, there's a marvelous open-air cinema in Plaka called Cine Paris. It is unique because it's in a rooftop garden and has a view of the Parthenon. Kydathineon 22,

露天影院// Cine Paris。夏季在普拉卡區有一處非比尋常的露天電影院，它的獨特之處在於它建在一個屋頂花園之中，可以俯瞰帕特農神廟(Parthenon)。地址：Kydathineon街22號；網址：。

THE ENTREPRENEUR: Lena Korres

莉娜·珂諾詩企業家：莉娜·珂諾詩(Lena Korres)

Co-founder of the beauty brand Korres

美容護膚品牌Korres聯合創始人

LIGHT BITE // P-Box. I love the chef, Christoforos Peskias, who has traveled the world and worked at some of the best restaurants. The menu offers a mix of Greek and international dishes, often with an Asian touch. It's located a bit outside the city, in Northern Athens. 11 Levidou St.,

美食// P-Box。我喜歡它的主廚克里斯托弗羅斯·帕斯奇亞斯(Christoforos Peskias)，他曾環遊世界，在全球許多最好的餐館工作過。這裏既有希臘本地菜，還有常常添加了亞洲元素的國際美食。餐館位於雅典城外以北一點的地方。地址：Levidou街11號；網址：。

SUPERB SEAFOOD // Varoulko. One of my favorite places to eat fish -- besides going to the Central Market to pick one out and have it grilled up -- is Varoulko, one of the first restaurants in Greece to receive a Michelin star. The service is wonderful. Try the kritharoto -- a Greek risotto -- with crayfish. Pireos 80,

超棒海鮮// Varoulko。除了去中央市場(Central Market)挑條魚自己烤制，我吃魚首選地之一就是Varoulko，這是希臘首批獲得米其林(Michelin)星級評定的餐館之一。服務非常貼心。你可以試試小龍蝦配希臘調味飯kritharoto。地址：Pireos 80號；網址：。

SPLENDID RELICS // National Archaeological Museum. Treasures recovered from the Antikythera Shipwreck, which dates to the first century B.C., are on view here until the end of June. Recently they discovered that one find, now called the Mechanism, might be one of the world's first computers. 44 Patission,

精彩遺蹟//國家考古博物館( National Archaeological Museum)。六月底之前這裏都將展出從安提基特拉沉船(Antikythera Shipwreck)遺址中發掘出來的寶藏，安提基特拉沉船可以追溯到公元前一世紀。最近人們發現，在沉船裏面發現的一樣東西（如今被稱爲安提基特拉機械）可能是世界上最早的計算機。地址：Patission 街44號；網址：。

SECRET SIP // Baba Au Rum. I am keen on this well-hidden downtown spot with an exceptional cocktail list. The space is reminiscent of bars in Berlin and New York. Kleitiou 6,

隱祕酒吧// Baba Au Rum。我非常喜歡這個大隱於市的酒吧，它有許多很不錯的雞尾酒。這個地方會讓人想起柏林和紐約的酒吧。地址：Kleitiou街6號；網址：。

ANCIENT ARTIFACTS // Museum of Cycladic Art. It contains the world's best collection of Cycladic art. One of my favorite displays is 'Scenes of Daily Life in Antiquity,' which is also great for kids. This fall there will be a show about ancient Greek medicine that should be fascinating. Neophytou Douka 4,

古代藝術品//基克拉迪藝術博物館(Museum of Cycladic Art)。裏面有世界上最好的基克拉迪藝術藏品。我最喜歡的展覽之一是“古代日常生活場景”(Scenes of Daily Life in Antiquity)，也很適合小孩子。今年秋季這裏將安排有關古希臘醫藥的展覽，想必會相當吸引人。地址：Neophytou Douka 街4號；網址：。

THE COLLECTOR: Iasson Tsakonas

伊爾森·薩寇納斯收藏家：伊爾森·薩寇納斯(Iasson Tsakonas)

Real-estate developer and founder of the ReMap art festival

房地產開發商、ReMap藝術節創始人。

STELLAR RESTO // Funky Gourmet. I've been going here regularly for four years and I am never disappointed. It's run by a young duo who are inspired by traditional Greek cuisine but give it a real contemporary take. It's in a corner building with huge windows, and ceilings made partly of glass, so you feel like you are outside. The restaurant just won its second Michelin star. 13 Paramithias, Keramikos,

明星餐館// Funky Gourmet。四年來我一直是這裏的常客，也從沒失望過。它的老闆是一對年輕人，他們受傳統希臘美食的啓發，但爲之添加了真正現代的元素。餐館建在一幢轉角樓內，巨大的窗戶、加上部分用玻璃製成的天花板，讓人覺得彷彿是在室外。它剛剛獲得了米其林二星評定。地址：Keramikos區Paramithias街13號；網址：。

ART INCUBATOR // The Breeder. One of the most interesting contemporary Greek galleries, with an international presence. They created a white cube with no windows in a building from the '70s in a red-light district. The space won architectural awards when it first opened a few years ago. The gallery has consistently good shows. 45 Iasonos,

藝術孵化器// The Breeder。希臘最有意思的當代藝術館之一，呈現國內外藝術家作品。藝術館像一個白色的大立方體，沒有窗戶，設在某紅燈區一幢70年代的大樓裏面。藝術館幾年前剛落成時還獲得了建築獎。這裏總是有不錯的展覽。地址：Iasonos街45號；網址：。

INNOVATIVE INSTITUTION // Benaki Museum. Originally in the Benaki family mansion, the museum is now a network of a half-dozen spaces scattered throughout the city. Their contemporary collection has always been excellent but now that they are collaborating with the Deste Foundation, things will get really interesting.

創新機構//貝納基博物館。貝納基博物館最早建在貝納基家族大宅邸裏面，如今已經成爲了一個分佈在全城六個不同地方的博物館網。他們的當代藝術品收藏一直非常傑出，如今他們正在和德斯特基金會(Deste Foundation)合作，真正的好戲看來還在後頭。網址：。

WEEKEND BRUNCH // New Hotel. The restaurant here has the best brunch on Sundays. They bake their own bread and make a mean eggs Benedict. The hotel is very cool; it was designed by the Campana brothers. Filellinon 16,

週末早午餐// New Hotel。這裏週日提供的早午餐是全城最好吃的。他們自己烤麪包、做火腿蛋鬆餅。這家酒店特別酷，設計出自坎帕納(Campana)兄弟之手。地址：Filellinon街16號；網址：。

THE PERFORMER: Sakis Rouvas

藝人：Sakis Rouvas

Singer, actor and former pole-vaulter

歌手、演員兼前撐杆跳運動員

SCENIC ROUTE // Temple of Poseidon. An amazing drive and the most beautiful sunset in the city. The ancient temple dedicated to Poseidon, the God of the sea, is surrounded by the Aegean Sea and has a rare spiritual energy. Cape Sounion, a little over 40 miles from Athens

風景線// 海神廟。一次奇妙之旅，這裏也是這座城市最美的日落觀賞地。這座古廟是爲海神波塞冬(Poseidon)而建，被愛琴海環繞，有少見的靈性力量。地點：斯尼旺海角，距雅典40多英里。

PERFECT RUN // Schinias National Park Pine Forest at Marathon Bay. One of my favorite escapes. A beautiful forest by the sea featuring a rare ecosystem. It is an ideal destination for running, hiking, mountain biking. Every season has a different beauty and the pines on the coast make for a stunning landscape. About 25 miles from Athens,

完美之行//希臘馬拉松灣Schinias國家松林公園。這是我喜歡的出遊地之一。海邊的一座美麗森林，有着珍稀的生態系統。這是跑步、遠足、騎山地自行車的理想之地。四季皆有其美，海岸邊的松林勾勒出驚豔的美景。地點：大約距雅典25英里；網址：

PORT ESCAPE // Kastella. I love every single part of this neighborhood, which has a breathtaking view of the Mikrolimano (small port in English), with great seafood restaurants and taverns. Being in Kastella is like visiting a Greek island while you are in Athens.

港口逸趣 // Kastella。我熱愛這個地方的每個部分，這裏有着令人窒息的小港景觀，還有非常棒的海鮮餐館和客棧。身在Kastella，彷彿身在雅典參觀一座希臘島嶼。

Plus Don't Miss . . .

不可錯過…

Odeon of Herod Atticus

阿迪庫斯劇場(Odeon of Herod Atticus)

This open-air theater, on the south side of the Acropolis, hosts a number of performances during the annual Athens Festival.

這個露天劇場位於雅典衛城的南邊，在每年一度的雅典節 (Athens Festival) 期間會有不少演出。

Nixon

Nixon

A new hot spot in Kerameikos that's a cocktail bar, restaurant, cinema and concert venue all in one.

這是凱拉米克斯(Kerameikos)的一處新的熱門娛樂場所，集雞尾酒吧、餐館、電影院、音樂廳於一體。網址：

Queen Calliope

Queen Calliope

Greek-American photographer and stylist Calliope Karvounis just opened a boutique that sells boho-chic clothing and accessories.

希臘裔美國人、攝影師兼造型師卡利俄珀·卡爾沃尼斯(Calliope Karvounis)新開的精品店，主打波西風情服裝和飾品。網址：

Nice 'N' Easy

Nice 'N' Easy

This spot serves delicious salads and other dishes made with ingredients sourced from small organic farms.

這家餐館有美味的沙拉等美食，食材均來自小型有機農場。網址：。

Lalaounis

想買些有希臘古韻的漂亮現代珠寶？試試這家高端店鋪。網址：。

For beautiful modern versions of ancient Greek jewelry, visit this upscale shop.

A for Athens

A for Athens

從這家精品酒店的露臺上，你可以欣賞到令人驚歎的城市美景，雅典衛城、普拉卡區、蒙納斯提拉奇廣場(Monastiraki Square)等一覽無餘。網址：。