達人帶你36小時玩轉紐約中央公園

In 1859, the sanctuary of undulating hills, bridges and lakes taking shape in the heart of Manhattan was described in The New York Times as a “noble work, which is so clearly destined to be the honor and delight of New York.” Neglect and decline in the 1970s threatened to snuff out that utopian vision of Central Park, but today, after years of restoration, it is verdant and flourishing — the rare tourist destination that is also a pleasure ground for locals. Depending on the season and cycle of life, one might be sunbathing or ice skating, sailing a toy boat or rowing a real one, listening to Shakespeare, rock music or the call of one of 230 species of birds.

曼哈頓中心區連綿起伏的小山、橋樑和湖泊，漸漸形成了一片世外桃源，它就是中央公園。1859年，紐約時報稱它是“典雅之作，顯然註定成爲紐約的榮耀與歡愉”。20世紀70年代，這片烏托邦似的景觀遭遇了一段時間的忽視與低迷，而現在，經歷多年修繕之後，它又變得鬱鬱蔥蔥，水草豐美，不僅成了熱門的旅行目的地，也是本地人樂於遊覽的好地方。根據季節與生物的生命週期不同，你可以在公園內曬太陽，也可以溜冰、駕駛着玩具帆船或真船航行，聆聽莎士比亞戲劇、搖滾樂或者公園中230多種鳥兒的歌唱。

Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, Central Park’s more than 840 acres are dappled with sculptures, monuments and fountains that tell of the nation’s explorers, artists and heroes, both real and imaginary: Columbus, Beethoven, Duke Ellington, John Lennon, Alice in Wonderland. The park is also home to tennis and handball courts, croquet greens, a carousel, a castle, a marionette theater, a zoo and more than a dozen playgrounds. It is crisscrossed by horse-drawn carriages and ringed by astronomically priced apartments, luxury hotels and world-class museums. Yet despite its being a kind of three-ring circus, there are quiet trails and hidden nooks, museums and bars within and around the park where one can find a more tranquil, timeless Manhattan.

中央公園由設計師弗里德里希·勞·奧姆斯泰德(Frederick Law Olmsted)和卡爾沃特·沃克斯(Calvert Vaux)設計，佔地840多英畝，園內星羅棋佈的雕像、紀念碑和噴泉講述着現實與幻想中諸多探險家、藝術家與英雄的故事：哥倫布(Columbus)、貝多芬(Beethoven)、艾靈頓公爵(Duke Ellington)、約翰·列儂(John Lennon)以及漫遊仙境的愛麗絲。公園裏還有網球場、手球場、槌球場、旋轉木馬、一座城堡、一座木偶劇場、一座動物園和十幾個遊樂場。到處都是馬車、天價公寓、豪華酒店和世界一流的博物館。可是，儘管這裏像馬戲團一樣五花八門，熱鬧非凡，但也有幽徑、隱祕的角落、博物館和酒吧，在公園內外，你可以找到一個寂靜而永恆的曼哈頓。
FRIDAY
週五
1. Boldface Names | 2 p.m.
1. 粗體的名稱 | 下午兩點
Download the free Central Park app to your smartphone. Its map allows you to pinpoint where you are, but more interesting, the app has audio clips of celebrities like Jerry Seinfeld welcoming you to the Mall and Literary Walk, or Whoopi Goldberg discussing Wollman Rink (where she learned to ice skate). Then, pretend you’re an aristocrat in a Merchant Ivory film and step through one of the iron gates near 105th Street and Fifth Avenue into the formal, six-acre Conservatory Garden (an official quiet zone), which is divided into three garden styles: French, Italian and English (don’t miss the Frances Hodgson Burnett Memorial Fountain with its sculptures of a boy and a girl, created in honor of the author of “The Secret Garden”). In the Italian garden, climb the stairs to the tall wisteria pergola, sit on a shady bench and observe the 12-foot-tall jet fountain below. Now is a good time to press play on the app and listen to Candice Bergen discuss the gardens. Before leaving, look down. At your feet, medallions etched into the ground carry the names of the original 13 states, including New York.

在你的智能手機上下載免費的中央公園應用軟件。它帶有地圖，可以精確定位你所在的位置，但更有趣的是該應用裏有許多名人的音頻片段，比如傑瑞·宋飛(Jerry Seinfeld)歡迎你來到購物中心與文學大道，伍比·戈德堡(Whoopi Goldberg)介紹沃爾曼溜冰場，她就是在那裏學會溜冰的。然後，假裝自己是莫謙特和艾弗裏(Merchant Ivory)電影作品中的貴族，款款走過第105大街和第五大道附近的一座鐵門，就正式踏進了方圓六英畝的保護區花園（一片真正寧靜的地方），分爲三種園林風格，分別是法蘭西、意大利和英倫風。不要錯過了弗朗西絲·哈德遜·伯奈特（Frances Hodgson Burnett，英語世界著名的兒童文學作家——譯註）紀念噴泉，它的雕塑是一個男孩和一個女孩，向該作家的名作《祕密花園》(The Secret Garden)致敬。在意大利花園，可以拾級而上，登上一座高高的紫藤綠廊，坐在綠蔭下的長椅上，觀賞下面能噴射12英尺高水柱的噴泉。現在，打開應用，按下“播放”鍵，聽坎迪斯·伯根(Candice Bergen)介紹這座園林，真是太合適了。離開之前，低頭望一眼，會發現你腳下的地面上鑲嵌着許多大大的圓形圖案，上面刻着美國最初十三個州的名稱，包括紐約州。
2. Museum Mile | 3:30 p.m.
2. 一英里博物館 | 下午3:30
Exit the gardens onto Fifth Avenue through the soaring wrought-iron Vanderbilt Gate, made in Paris in 1894 and once part of Cornelius Vanderbilt II’s mansion at 58th Street. Walk south. You’re on the aptly named Museum Mile. Already been to heavyweights like the Guggenheim? Stop by less-trafficked spots like the Museum of the City of New York, where you’ll find vestiges of the city’s younger days, including handwritten manuscripts by Eugene O’Neill. And Neue Galerie celebrates 20th-century German and Austrian art and design with works by Gustav Klimt, Josef Hoffmann, Vasily Kandinsky and Paul Klee. Then enjoy a lobster roll ($18) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s self-service roof garden cafe and martini bar (open May through late fall) as the sun sets.

走出花園，踏上第五大道，穿過高聳的鑄鐵製造的範德比爾特大門。這座大門於1894年在巴黎製造，曾經是第58大道上康內留斯·範德比爾特二世(Cornelius Vanderbilt II)城堡的一部分。向南行進，你就到了名副其實的一英里博物館(Museum Mile)。古根海姆博物館這樣的重量級博物館你已經去過了？那就在訪客較少的地方停下腳步吧，比如紐約市立博物館，你會見到這座城市年輕時代的許多遺蹟，包括劇作家尤金·奧尼爾(Eugene O’Neill)的手稿。新畫廊(Neue Galerie)在舉辦20世紀德國與奧地利藝術設計慶典，展出着古斯塔夫·克里姆特(Gustav Klimt)、約瑟夫·霍夫曼(Josef Hoffmann)、瓦西里·康定斯基(Vasily Kandinsky)和保羅·克利(Paul Klee)等藝術家的傑作。這時天色已晚，你可以到大都會藝術博物館的屋頂花園自助餐廳及馬提尼酒吧（營業季從5月到晚秋時節）品嚐一客龍蝦卷（18美元）。
3. A Southern Crawl | 7:30 p.m.
3. 徐徐向南 | 晚上7:30
Begin at the Plaza. Skip the buzzy Champagne Bar in the lobby and climb the stairs to the more-intimate Rose Club, where plush chairs are ideal for tête-à-têtes. A Bloody Mary costs $23, but, hey, you can almost make a meal of free nuts and popcorn. (The Plaza Food Hall is a great place to pick up pastries and other treats to eat in the park.) Then walk west along Central Park South, peeking into the windows of bars to see what pulls you in, from Whiskey Park to the bar at South Gate restaurant in the J W Marriott Essex House. When you reach the Museum of Arts and Design, go to the ninth floor, where you’ll find Robert, a restaurant and lounge with live piano music and views of Columbus Circle. Across the street at the Time Warner Center, there are several bars (as well as upscale shops), including the lovely Center Bar, where you’ll also find live piano music, and Landmarc, which serves casual bistro fare. For something fancier, there’s the Stone Rose Lounge.

從廣場出發，在大堂裏活色生香的香檳酒吧門外走過，登上樓梯，走進更加私密的玫瑰俱樂部(Rose Club)，裏面擺着豪華舒適的椅子，特別適合私人談話。一杯血腥瑪麗23美元，但是……嗨！其實你可以用堅果和爆米花做一頓免費的美餐（廣場餐廳是個了不起的好地方，可以選購麪點和其他零食，帶到公園裏吃）。然後沿着中央公園南部路一路向西，從威士忌公園到埃塞克斯豪斯JW萬豪酒店(J W Marriott Essex House)內南門餐廳(South Gate)的酒吧，瀏覽沿途酒吧的櫥窗內有沒有什麼東西能吸引你。來到藝術與設計博物館之後，去九層，會看到羅伯特餐廳與沙龍，裏面有現場鋼琴音樂會，還可以俯瞰哥倫布轉盤廣場(Columbus Circle)的風光。時代華納中心的街對面有好幾家酒吧（及高端店鋪）包括可愛的中心酒吧(Center Bar)，此地也有現場鋼琴演奏，還有地標酒吧(Landmarc)，供應家常的小餐廳美食。如果想要華麗點兒的，去石玫瑰沙龍(Stone Rose Lounge)。
SATURDAY
週六
4. Early Birds | 7:30 a.m.
4. 早起的鳥兒 | 早晨7:30
Bird lovers know that daybreak is magical. In the Ramble, a more-than-30-acre maze of boulders and trees, birding is especially rewarding because, according to the Central Park website, it is on the Atlantic Flyway, a migration route that birds follow in the spring and fall. Walking its shady arteries, it’s easy to forget that this section of the park is almost entirely man-made: The running water in the stream can be turned on and off as if it were coming from a kitchen faucet. (For those who get a later start, the Central Park Conservancy offers kits with binoculars, maps, a guidebook and sketching materials that you can borrow at no charge at Belvedere Castle.)

愛鳥人士知道，黎明時分很是神奇。漫步區(Ramble)方圓30多英畝，是一座遍佈着岩石與樹木的迷宮，在這裏觀鳥收穫格外多，因爲中央公園網站上說，該公園恰好位於亞特蘭大飛行之路上，而這條路線是大量鳥類每年春秋遷徙時的必經之路。走在綠蔭如蓋的主幹道上，你很容易忘掉公園的這片區域其實基本是人造的，淙淙的溪水可以像廚房水龍頭一樣隨時打開或關閉。對於那些較晚出發的遊人，中央公園保護區提供全套裝備，包括雙筒望遠鏡、地圖、旅行指南和素描材料，都可以在觀景城堡(Belvedere Castle)免費借用。
5. Into the Woods | 10 a.m.
5. 深入密林 | 上午10點
On sunny days, Central Park’s vast lawns are littered with people. If you want a little peace — and a hint of the Adirondacks — head to the North Woods. Be cautious, though, as this is a dense, somewhat isolated area. That said, the 90 acres of wildflowers, trees, a ravine and a waterfall will transport you to the country. These woodlands (another bird-watching hot spot) were designed to block out the skyline and drown out the noise of the city with babbling water. And do they ever. Little wonder that the magician David Copperfield has said that this is the place he comes to when he longs to disappear. Look, too, for the nearby Pool, where ducks nestle on the banks beneath weeping willows. Farther north, at the Harlem Meer, you can try catch-and-release fishing.

在豔陽高照的日子裏，中央公園內遼闊的草坪上總是遊人如織。如果你想要一分寧靜，見識阿迪朗達克山脈的風光，就去北林(North Woods)吧。但要小心，這個區域內山高林密，與世隔絕。90英畝的野花、樹林、一條溪谷和瀑布將會帶你進入鄉村。這片林地（也是熱門的觀鳥地）的設計目標是擋住天際線，用潺潺的水聲替代城市的喧囂噪音。確實起了作用。難怪大魔術師大衛·科波菲爾(David Copperfield)曾說，這就是他隱身不見之後想要藏身的地方。附近的湖邊柳絲飄拂，成羣的野鴨在岸上休憩。在更北之處的哈林胡(Harlem Meer)，你可以試着玩一次捕魚再放生的遊戲。
6. Tasting Menu | 1 p.m.
6. 品嚐佳餚 | 下午1點
When you’re in the mood for lunch, walk over to Trump Hotel Central Park and into Nougatine, the elegant yet “casual sister” of Jean-Georges. Here Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s prix fixe lunch menu ($38) changes with the seasons but includes an appetizer, main course like seared salmon with corn pudding and cherry tomato salad or organic chicken with ricotta gnocchi, market carrots and Roma beans, and dessert (the warm chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream is a must).

想吃午餐了？去中央公園特朗普酒店(Trump Hotel Central Park)的黑脆糖(Nougatine)餐廳。它是讓-喬治餐廳優雅但休閒的姐妹店。在這裏，烹飪大師讓-喬治·馮熱裏什唐(Jean-Georges Vongerichten)烹製的午餐（38美元）因季節而不同，但通常包括一道開胃菜、煎三文魚配玉米布丁之類的主菜、聖女果沙拉或配了意大利乳清奶酪、天然胡蘿蔔和羅馬豆角的有機雞肉及一道甜點（必須品嚐熱巧克力蛋糕加香草豆冰激凌）。
7. Star Gazing | 3 p.m.
7. 凝視星空 | 下午3點
Next door to the American Museum of Natural History is a giant orb in a glass box: the Rose Center for Earth and Space. There are few better ways to spend a rainy day than gazing at star clusters and galaxies during a show at the Hayden Planetarium, or watching an Imax nature film at the museum. Speaking of the museum, stop by to marvel at dinosaur fossils and to lie down (go ahead, it’s O.K.) beneath the 94-foot-long, 21,000-pound fiberglass model of a blue whale suspended from the ceiling.

下一道門通向美國自然歷史博物館，那是玻璃箱子裏的一個大圓球：地球與太空玫瑰中心。在海登天文臺的展覽中凝視星羣與銀河，或者在博物館裏看一場自然主題的IMAX電影，雨天，沒有比這更好的度日方式了。說起博物館，可以去看看恐龍化石。天花板上掛着一頭玻璃纖維製成的94英尺長、21000磅重的模型藍鯨，不妨躺到（大膽嘗試吧，沒事的）下面。
8. All That Jazz | 7:30 p.m.
8. 到處是爵士樂 | 晚上7:30
In the warmer months you can catch a concert or play in Central Park or at nearby Lincoln Center, but any time of year is right for listening to jazz while eating finger-licking fare like a catfish po’boy ($16) or bourbon-glazed barbecued baby back ribs ($24) at Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola. Part of Jazz at Lincoln Center, this intimate club has table and bar seating, all facing a vertiginous wall of windows behind the performers — almost close enough to touch — that lets in Central Park and the twinkling city lights.

在溫暖的季節，可以去聽音樂會，或者在中央公園或附近的林肯中心玩，但一年中任何時候，都可以一邊聽爵士樂，一邊吃令人不停吮指的美餐，比如去迪茲的可口可樂俱樂部(Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola)，品嚐鮎魚窮孩兒三明治（16美元）或者波本醬烤仔排（24美元）。這傢俬密的俱樂部是林肯中心爵士樂餐廳的一部分，所有餐位和吧檯座位都面對着一堵炫目的落地玻璃窗，舞臺就在窗前，演員近得幾乎觸手可及，透過玻璃窗，亦可看到中央公園及城市裏璀璨的燈火。
9. Nightcap in the Park | 10 p.m.
9. 在公園裏喝杯睡前酒 | 夜裏10點
The recently reopened, more rustic (think hunting lodge) Tavern on the Green at 67th Street and Central Park West has an oval indoor bar and fireplace to take the chill out of fall nights. For something more romantic, visit the outdoor bar where, beneath glowing lanterns, you can sip drinks with unromantic names inspired by boroughs, including the Staten Island (Cacao Prieto rum, coconut water, pineapple and lime juice; $14).

第67大街和中央公園西部路上最近開張的綠苑酒廊(Tavern on the Green)更加有鄉野韻味（想象一下狩獵小屋吧），有橢圓形的室內酒吧和壁爐，深秋的夜晚可將寒冷一掃而光。若干需要更浪漫點兒，就去戶外酒吧，在明亮的燈下啜飲一杯名字不太浪漫的飲料，這些名字都起源於附近的地名，比如斯塔頓島（可可普列託朗姆酒、椰汁、菠蘿和酸橙汁，14美元）。
SUNDAY
週日
10. Waffles and Row Boats | 9:30 a.m.
10. 吃完餅乾再划船 | 上午9:30
Yes, it’s rife with tourists. But do visit the Loeb Boathouse, which opened in 1954. How often can one tuck into maple waffles with warm berry compote ($16) and watch rowboats glide by on a lake — in the middle of Manhattan? After brunch, go for a row (boats are $15 an hour; $20 cash deposit required).

沒錯，1954年開張的樓泊船屋(Loeb Boathouse)內顧客很多，但是一定要去。一邊吃着楓糖華夫餅與溫暖的漿果蜜餞（16美元），一邊觀賞湖面上舟楫往來，一個人能有多少次這樣的好機會呢，特別是在曼哈頓市中心？早午餐之後，去划船吧（租船15美元一小時；押金20美元）。
11. Walk on the Wild Side | 11:30 a.m.
11. 荒野漫步 | 上午11:30
Tigers, red pandas, and an emerald tree boa are a few of the creatures you may encounter at the Central Park Zoo. There are penguin and sea lion feedings, a children’s zoo with a nature trail, and a 4-D theater. The zoo is tiny compared with the Bronx Zoo, but it is a delightful way to end a weekend in an urban jungle.

在中央公園動物園你會見到許多動物，包括老虎、小熊貓和翡翠樹蚺。還有企鵝和海獅投喂處、一座兒童動物園和一座4D影院，兒童動物園內有小路可通向自然景觀。雖然這座動物園的規模不及布朗克斯動物園，但卻是都市叢林中歡度週末的好去處。
THE DETAILS
實用信息
1. Conservatory Garden, Central Park.
1. 中央公園保護區園林
2. Museum of the City of New York, 1220 Fifth Avenue; . Neue Galerie, 1048 Fifth Avenue,. Metropolitan Museum of Art Roof Garden Café and Martini Bar, 1000 Fifth Avenue;
2. 紐約市立博物館，第5大道1220號； . 新畫廊，第5大道1048號； . 大都會藝術博物館的屋頂花園自助餐廳及馬提尼酒吧，第5大道1000號；

3. The Rose Club, The Plaza, Fifth Avenue at Central Park South; . Robert, 2 Columbus Circle; . Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, .
3. 廣場上的玫瑰俱樂部，中央公園南第5大道；. 羅伯特餐廳與沙龍，哥倫布轉盤廣場2號; . 時代華納中心，哥倫布轉盤廣場10號, .

4. The Ramble, Central Park.
4. 中央公園漫步區
5. North Woods, Central Park.
5. 中央公園北林

6. Nougatine, Trump Hotel Central Park, 1 Central Park West; .
6. 中央公園特朗普酒店黑脆糖餐廳，中央公園西部路1號; .
7. American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West at 79th Street; . Rose Center for Earth and Space, 81st Street between Central Park West and Columbus Avenue,
7. 美國自然歷史博物館，第79號大街中央公園西部路; . 地球與太空玫瑰中心，中央公園西部路與哥倫布大道之間第81號大街，

8. Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola, 10 Columbus Circle;
8. 可口可樂暈眩俱樂部，哥倫布轉盤廣場10號;

9. Tavern on the Green, Central Park West and 67th Street; .
9. 綠苑酒廊，中央公園西部路與第67號大街，.
10. Loeb Boathouse, Central Park; enter at East 72nd Street and Fifth Avenue; .
10. 中央公園樓泊船屋，從東72號大街與第五大道進入; .
11. Central Park Zoo, between East 63rd and 66th Streets; .
11. 中央公園動物園，位於東63號與66號大街之間; .
LODGING
住宿
The Mark (Madison Avenue at 77th Street;), in a 1920s landmark building, has one of the slickest lobbies around: with a bold black-and-white-stripe floor and modern art, you’ll feel like you’re checking into a gallery; from $725.
馬克酒店（The Mark，77號大街上麥迪遜大道；)是一座建於20世紀20年代的地標建築，華麗的大堂在附近數一數二。看着風格鮮明的黑白條紋地板和現代藝術傑作，你會感覺自己入住的是座畫廊。房價725美元起。

The Excelsior Hotel (45 West 81st Street;), steps from the park, the Rose Center for Earth and Space, and the American Museum of Natural History, is in the midst of the action — yet still feels like a low-key, local apartment building; from $159.
怡東酒店（The Excelsior Hotel，西81號大街45號；）距離中央公園、地球與太空玫瑰中心及美國自然歷史博物館都只有幾步之遙，位置左右逢源，卻依然讓人感覺是一座低調的本土公寓樓。房價159美元起。