旅行達人告訴你東京的窮遊法與富遊法

I walked out of Tokyo Station, the big commuter hub in the city’s Chiyoda district, and turned to look up at its gorgeous brick facade. I was lost. I couldn’t find the Tokyo Station Hotel — a well-reviewed luxury property that was renovated in 2012. My mistake, it turned out, was leaving the train station at all. The hotel and the train station coexist in one long, outstretched building, which was completed in 1914 and offers a refreshing prewar architectural counterpoint to the glittering glass-and-steel skyscrapers Tokyo is now known for.

走出位於東京市千代田區的東京站(Tokyo Station)，我轉回身去，擡頭望向它那壯觀的磚石外牆。我迷路了，無法找到東京站酒店(Tokyo Station Hotel)，它是一處廣受好評的奢華物業，在2012年經過了重新裝修。事實證明，我錯就錯在走出了火車站。酒店和火車站其實都位於一棟長長的舒展建築裏。東京如今以閃閃發光的摩天大樓聞名，在那些鋼鐵玻璃材質的大樓映襯下，這棟建成於1914年的大戰前建築給人以耳目一新之感。

I looped back in and found the hotel’s lobby, as well as its chief concierge, Marie Antoinette Mori, who greeted me at her desk. Originally from the Philippines, Ms. Mori became fascinated with Japan during its big 1980s economic boom. She studied international tourism in Japan, married a Japanese man and began working in the hospitality industry, where her career took off. “I became one of the favorites of Mr. Stringer” — the former Sony chairman Howard Stringer. “I was the only one who wasn’t afraid of him,” she said with a laugh.

我繞了回去，找到了酒店的大堂以及在接待臺旁向我致意的首席禮賓員瑪麗·安託瓦內特·莫里(Marie Antoinette Mori)。莫里來自菲律賓，1980年代日本經濟騰飛時期，她逐漸愛上了這個國家。她在日本修習了國際旅遊專業，嫁給了一個日本人，進入了酒店行業，她的事業自此蒸蒸日上。“我是斯特林格先生最喜歡的人之一”，她指的是索尼公司(Sony)前董事長霍華德·斯特林格(Howard Stringer)。“我是唯一一個不害怕他的人，”她笑着說道。

Ms. Mori had prepared an itinerary for a fictitious guest, spending $1,000 (about 110,000 yen) over the course of a day in this often-pricey city. My goal was to remake the itinerary on a budget of $100 — necessarily cutting a few corners, but hoping to retain the spirit of the original.

莫里已經爲想像中的客人設計了一套行程：花1000美元（約合11萬日元）在這個開銷通常都很大的城市裏呆上一天。我的目標則是重新制定行程，預算爲100美元——降低規格是必須的，但又希望保留原有行程的精髓。

Breakfast

早餐

HIGH Ms. Mori escorted me to the top floor of her hotel, into a huge room where sunlight flooded in through large skylights. Guests grazed on a large, comprehensive morning buffet. Ms. Mori recommended the Tokyo Station Hotel breakfast (3,800 yen), where they could enjoy standard Western fare (eggs made to order, coffee, pastries) or regional Japanese staples, where the Tokyo Station really excels: Ishikari-nabe (hot pot from the northern Hokkaido region), traditional rice porridge, soybean milk skin, and boiled rape blossoms. Ms. Mori said many luxury hotels in the area had comparable buffets. The Shangri-La, she said, specializes in pastries. “Over there they have a, uh … what do you call it?” she asked. “A Cronut.”

莫里陪我來到酒店的頂樓，走進一個寬敞的房間。陽光透過大大的天窗傾瀉而入，客人們正隨意享用盛大豐富的自助早餐。莫里爲我推薦的是東京站酒店的早餐(3800日元)：客人可以享用標準的西餐（煎蛋、咖啡、糕點），或者當地的日式美食——東京站的日本料理一向非常出色——有石狩火鍋（來自北海道北部地區）、傳統的稀飯、豆腐皮和煮油菜花。莫里說，這一地區的很多豪華酒店都提供可以與之媲美的自助餐。香格里拉酒店(Shangri-La)以糕點見長。“他們那兒有，呃……你們管它叫什麼？”她問道。“羊角甜甜圈(Cronut)。”

LOW From one buffet in a huge train station to another, I went to the considerably cheaper Bar Marche Kodama in the Shinagawa train station in the Minato ward. It’s also a little tricky to find: Don’t exit the station once you get off at the Shinagawa stop. Go into the Ecute department store and you’ll find the small restaurant in the back corner. Once there, I feasted on an eclectic, mostly Italian-inspired buffet of prosciutto, green salad, fresh corn, pasta Bolognese, crispy fried rice and, for dessert, Italian wedding cookies. The inclusion of the salad was particularly nice — Japanese cuisine is healthy, but not necessarily heavy on raw, leafy greens. Total cost: 620 yen.

我在大型火車站內的自助餐廳之間穿梭，然後走進了港區品川火車站(Shinagawa train station)內價格相當低廉的Bar Marche Kodama。要找到它也得費點功夫：在品川站下車後別出站。走進Ecute百貨商場，就能在後邊的角落裏發現這家小餐廳了。在那裏，我盡情享用了一頓兼收幷蓄、以意大利風味爲主的自助餐，有火腿、蔬菜沙拉、鮮玉米、意大利肉醬面和鬆脆的炒飯，甜點則是意大利婚禮曲奇。能在自助餐里加入沙拉真是太好了——日本料理很健康，但不一定會大量使用生的綠葉蔬菜。總花費：620日元。

HIGH Ms. Mori quoted a price of roughly 15,000 yen to have a private sedan with a driver for three hours to ferry our faux big-spender around the city. The Tokyo Station Hotel goes so far as to meet guests at train platforms and escort them to the hotel — a service that comes only with staying at the hotel, of course, which can run over $1,000 per night.

富遊。莫里女士建議花費約1.5萬日元租一輛帶司機的轎車，帶着我們假冒的奢侈旅行者到城中各處遊玩三個小時。東京站酒店會派人到火車站臺接賓客到酒店。當然，這項服務僅提供給住店賓客，在那裏住一晚的費用超過1000美元。

LOW Logistics are tricky for those unfamiliar with the city. Get to know and love the train, because you’ll be spending quite a bit of time with it. Tokyo’s system is expansive and can be, in a word, daunting. There are over 100 different railway lines in Tokyo, and most of them are privately held by competing companies. The two big ones you’ll need to know are JR East, the largest railway system in Japan, and the Tokyo Metro, the city’s busiest subway system.

窮遊。對不熟悉這座城市的人來說，交通是件麻煩事。你需要了解並愛上火車，因爲你會在火車上度過不少時間。東京的交通系統價格不菲，而且可能令人望而生畏。東京有100多條鐵路線，大部分由一些相互競爭的公司私人所有。你需要知道這兩家大公司：一個是日本最大的鐵路公司——東日本旅客鐵道株式會社(JR East)；另一個是東京最大的地鐵公司——東京地下鐵株式會社(Tokyo Metro)。

If you’re planning to use only the subway or JR lines, there are passes for that. A combination ticket, though (which can be purchased in JR stations), is the better way to go. For 1,590 yen, you’ll be able to use several lines for one day, including all of Tokyo’s JR lines and the Tokyo Metro. Another option is to buy a Suica or Pasmo Card (available at ticket vending machines in major train stations), reusable cards on which you load money; you touch them to the turnstile each time you ride.

如果你打算只乘坐地鐵或JR的鐵路線，也有那樣的車票。但把兩家公司結合起來的車票（可以在JR的各個車站買到）更划算。花費1590日元，你能在一天內使用數條線路，包括東京所有的JR鐵路以及Tokyo Metro的所有線路。還有一種選擇是購買Suica卡或Pasmo卡（各大火車站的自動售票機上有售），這兩種卡可以多次使用，你可以往裏面充錢。每次乘車時，在閘機刷卡。

There is a 500-yen deposit to pick up one of those cards, but it’s worth it — you won’t have to deal with individual tickets, you’ll get a small discount on rides and you can even use it to make purchases in some stores and at the city’s ubiquitous vending machines.

購卡需要交納500日元押金，不過這是值得的，因爲你不必每次乘車都買票，而且刷卡乘車有一點折扣，你還可以用卡在一些商店或東京無處不在的自動售貨機上買東西。

Related pro tip Get a SIM card for your phone — data only. You won’t want to be without a maps app when you’re walking around. Cards in the $15 to $20 range are widely available. (Make sure you get the right size: the latest-generation iPhones, for example, use nano SIM cards, not micro SIM.)

相關專業建議。給你的手機買一張SIM卡——僅用於數據。你四處旅行時，肯定不能沒有地圖應用程序。15至20美元的SIM卡很多地方都有賣（一定要買對尺寸：比如，最新一代iPhone用的納米SIM卡，而不是微型SIM卡）。

HIGH The Asakusa neighborhood is known for its Sensoji Buddhist temple, Tokyo’s oldest. Ms. Mori recommended a rickshaw tour of the neighborhood, passing along Sumida Park, one of the many places in Tokyo to see sakura, or cherry blossoms, in the early spring. A two-hour tour costs 16,250 yen.

富遊。淺草區(Asakusa)以淺草寺(Sensoji)聞名，它是東京最古老的寺廟。莫里女士建議搭乘人力車在附近遊玩，穿過隅田公園(Sumida Park)，它是早春時節在東京看櫻花的去處之一。兩個小時的旅程要花費16250日元。

LOW I set out to do some exploring on my own, and see some sakura in the process. A follower of the Frugal Traveler Twitter account recommended the Nezu Museum in the Minato district. While the Nezu’s collection of Buddhist art and Chinese bronzes was interesting, I was most impressed with the lush garden out back. The garden — about four acres — is shockingly big in a place where space is so precious. It truly feels like an escape from the city. Admission was 1,000 yen.

窮遊。我自己去亂逛，沿途看到了一些櫻花。窮遊欄目(Frugal Traveler)Twitter賬戶上的一位關注者建議參觀港區(Minato district)的根津博物館(Nezu Museum)。雖然該博物館收藏的佛教藝術品和中國青銅器很有趣，但我印象最深刻的是博物館後面的一個花木茂盛的花園。它大約佔地4英畝，在空間如此寶貴的區域，它真是大得驚人。這裏真的能逃離城市的喧囂。門票1000日元。

From there, I hopped a couple of trains over to the Korakuen station and walked up to the University of Tokyo’s Koishikawa Botanical Gardens. After paying admission (400 yen) I headed from the southeast entrance to a huge open expanse in the center of the garden. I found families picnicking, children playing and people lining up for coffee and tea from the ramshackle snack bar called Coffee Time (a coffee is 300 yen). All were enjoying the budding cherry blossoms and cool spring weather.

我從那裏換了幾趟火車，在後樂園站(Korakuen)下車，走到東京大學(University of Tokyo)的小石川植物園(Koishikawa Botanical Gardens)。買了門票（400日元）之後，我從東南口前往花園中心的一片開闊的空地。很多家庭在這裏野餐，孩子們在玩耍，人們在一個名叫咖啡時光(Coffee Time)的簡易小吃店前排隊購買咖啡和茶（一杯咖啡300日元）。大家在觀賞剛剛綻放的櫻花，享受涼爽的春天。

HIGH Ms. Mori recommended the omakase tasting menu at — where else? — Sukiyabashi Jiro. The 90-year-old sushi master Jiro Ono’s already formidable status was made outright legendary with the release of the 2012 documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” The 10-seat restaurant is difficult to get into, but Ms. Mori can make the arrangements. “We can get you into Jiro,” she said, “but then you have to go. You have to. We can’t have no-shows at Jiro.” The price for lunch (or dinner) is 30,000 yen.

富遊。莫里推薦數寄屋橋次郎餐廳（Sukiyabashi Jiro，她肯定會選這裏）的廚師發辦品嚐菜單。90歲的壽司大師小野二郎(Jiro Ono)已經具有令人敬畏的地位，2012年的記錄片《壽司之神》(Jiro Dreams of Sushi)更是讓他成爲傳奇。這家餐廳只有10個座位，很難進入，但莫里能安排。“我們能搞到座位，”她說，“但搞到你就必須得去吃。你必須去。我們不能訂了又不去。”一頓午餐（或晚餐）3萬日元。

LOW Jiro received three Michelin stars; Tsuta received one. It was the first Japanese ramen shop ever to receive such an honor. The small, unassuming space, close to the Sugamo station on the JR Yamanote line, is difficult to get into for different reasons: They take no reservations and operate on a ticket system. I went early one morning, around 7:30 a.m., and waited outside the restaurant with a handful of other people. Eventually the door slid open and a man came out with a handful of small, laminated tickets. He handed me one: “Come back,” he said. “Between 12 and 1 p.m.” He took a 1,000-yen bill as a deposit, then went back inside and closed the door. When I returned at noon, I was treated to the best bowl of shoyu (soy sauce-based) ramen I’d ever eaten. The broth was deep, intense and slightly sweet. The accompaniments — soft-boiled egg, bamboo shoots and pork slices — were done perfectly. The basic ramen bowl at Tsuta is 950 yen — I paid a total of 1,250 for three extra slices of pork.

窮遊。數寄屋橋次郎是米其林三星餐廳，蔦拉麪店(Tsuta)是米其林一星餐廳。它是首個獲此殊榮的日本拉麪店。這家其貌不揚的小店離JR山手線(Yamanote)的巢鴨站(Sugamo)很近。它也不好進，原因卻是不同：這家店不接受預訂，採用取票制。一天早上7點半左右，我就趕到了那裏。我在店外等候，另外還有幾個人也在等。最後，門滑開了，一個男人走出來，拿着幾張薄板狀小票。他遞給我一張，說道：“12點到下午1點之間來。”他收了1000日元定金，返回店裏，關上了門。中午我回到那裏，吃到了我吃過的最好吃的醬油拉麪。湯很多，很濃，微甜。配料很完美：溏心蛋、竹筍絲和豬肉絲。這裏的普通拉麪一碗950日元，我花了1250日元，加了三片豬肉。

HIGH Who doesn’t like a little costume play built into their vacations? Ms. Mori recommended something called a “kimono experience and photo shoot,” wherein the patron pays for elaborate kimono dress (in one of several styles: oiran, maiko or geisha), as well as hair and makeup. A photo shoot follows. Men, don’t think you’re getting out of this: There’s a samurai option for you. The oiran set with two kimonos costs 27,000 yen.

富遊。誰不喜歡在度假時玩一下角色扮演？莫里推薦的是一個名叫“和服體驗與拍照”的項目，顧客花錢租借精緻的和服（在花魁、舞姬和藝妓三種風格中挑一種），還包括髮型和妝容。然後拍照。男人們，不要以爲你們無法參與：你可以選擇武士裝。花魁套餐包含兩套和服，費用是2.7萬日元。

LOW I found a different way to incorporate both ceremonial clothing (of sorts) and culture into my visit: taking in a Japanese baseball game. I bought my ticket at one of the many 7-Elevens in Japan. (7-Eleven is owned by a Japanese company.) It was a complicated process, one that involved a helpful clerk trying to spell my name in the Japanese alphabet — buying at the stadium probably would have been easier. It also involved deciding what “cheering section” I wanted to sit in. I decided on an outfield ticket on the side of the home team, the Tokyo Yakult Swallows.

窮遊。我找到了另一種把儀式服裝（算是吧）和文化融入旅行的方法：觀看一場日本棒球比賽。我的票是在7-Eleven便利店買的（日本的7-Eleven特別多，因爲它由一家日本公司所有）。購買過程還挺複雜，一位樂於助人的店員努力用日文字母拼寫我的名字——在體育場購買的話很可能會容易得多。我還得選擇坐在哪個“喝彩區”。我決定坐在主隊東京養樂多燕子隊(Tokyo Yakult Swallows)那一側的外場位置。

The game was positively raucous — at one point, everyone in my section produced tiny umbrellas and began thrusting them up and down and chanting (a pro-Swallows chant, I assumed) while a small brass band backed them up. The stadium grub selection was great, too — a big bowl of ramen could be had for 750 yen, yakitori for 100 yen, and a whiskey and melon soda for 600 yen. My ticket cost a reasonable 1,800 yen.

比賽非常熱鬧。有一段時間，我那個區的所有人都拿出小傘，一邊上下揮舞，一邊唱歌（我猜唱的是支持燕子隊的歌曲），還有個銅管小樂隊爲他們伴奏。那個體育場提供的餐食也很棒——一大碗拉麪750日元，日式烤雞串100日元，一杯威士忌甜瓜汽水600日元。我的票價是1800日元，挺划算。

HIGH Seiji Yamamoto is the chef at Nihonryori RyuGin, a modern kaiseki restaurant that was awarded three Michelin stars. Mr. Yamamoto is known for incorporating modern culinary techniques with the refined, traditional kaiseki dinner. The descriptions of RyuGin’s courses are wonderfully abstract: Dishes have names like “Coolness Warmth Playfulness Nostalgia and Temptation” and “A Message From the Coast of Japan.” Dinner costs 27,000 yen.

富遊。山本徵治(Seiji Yamamoto)是龍吟餐廳(Nihonryori RyuGin)的大廚。這家現代懷石料理餐廳獲得了米其林三星。徵治以把現代烹飪技巧與精緻的傳統懷石料理相結合而聞名。龍吟餐廳對菜的描述非常抽象：菜名都是“冷靜溫暖嬉戲懷舊與誘惑”或“日本海岸的訊息”這種風格。正餐價格爲2.7萬日元。

LOW I was also in search of a taste of the coast of Japan, in the form of a sushi dinner. I met up with my friend Mayumi, a Tokyo native, and presented her with my annoyingly specific parameters: something good but not that good; cheap but definitely not poor quality. She good-humoredly took me to a small place near the Kyodo train station in her neighborhood, about a 20-minute ride from Shinjuku: Midori Sushi, an unpretentious restaurant next to a KFC. The chef Ken Hosono’s 10-course omakase menu featured an exceptionally silky-smooth squid, along with barracuda, fatty tuna, uni and a wonderfully buttery scallop, among other pieces. The cost was 3,000 yen per person. Not only was it one of best sushi dinners I’ve had in recent memory, but it was among the cheapest — a difficult-to-hit sweet spot that every frugal traveler seeks out.

窮遊。我也想以壽司晚餐的形式尋找日本海岸的味道。我約上朋友真弓(Mayumi)，她是東京本地人。我告訴她我麻煩的特殊要求：好吃但也不能太好；便宜但絕不能品質低劣。她好脾氣地帶我去經堂火車站(Kyodo)附近的一家小餐館，她家就住在那一帶，離新宿大約有20分鐘車程。那家樸素的小餐館名叫綠壽司(Midori Sushi)，旁邊是一家肯德基。大廚細野賢(Ken Hosono)的十道廚師幫辦菜單包括十分絲滑的魷魚，還有梭魚、多脂金槍魚、海膽以及美味的黃油扇貝等。費用是每人3000日元。它是我近期記憶裏最美味也最便宜的壽司正餐之一——這是窮遊旅行者都在追求的難得的平衡點。