肆無忌憚的狂熱 男士首飾佩戴法則

It has been said a man needs no more ornaments than a watch and wedding ring. Perhaps that's because the idea of men wearing jewelry can evoke images of gold chains framed by a barely buttoned shirt. But there are many degrees of decoration between a strict limit of watch and wedding ring -- with the occasional cuff links, of course -- and the stuff of 'Saturday Night Fever.'

有人說，除了手錶和婚戒，男人什麼裝飾品都不需要。也許這是因爲提到男人戴首飾，就會讓人想到幾乎不扣扣子的襯衫搭配金鍊子的畫面。但在手錶和婚戒的嚴格限制――當然偶爾還會有袖釦――和《週末夜狂熱》(Saturday Night Fever)的那種肆無忌憚之間，還是有很多不同程度的配飾選擇的。

A few old-school accent pieces have started to make their way back into the gentleman's wardrobe -- the signet ring, the tie clip and the lapel pin -- thanks, in part, to the influence that the '50s have been wielding on menswear runways.

幾款老式的配飾開始返回男士們的衣櫥――圖章戒指、領帶夾和領針――五十年代對男裝時裝秀一直以來的影響功不可沒。

But how to wear all this hardware? 'There are a million ways to get it wrong and only a few to get it right,' said Tyler Thoreson, vice president of men's editorial and creative at Gilt Groupe. 'That's part of the fun -- it's a little tricky, and more rewarding to pull off in a sophisticated way.'

但是這些東西該如何佩戴？Gilt Groupe負責男裝編輯和設計的副總裁泰勒・託雷森(Tyler Thoreson)說：“會有無數種方式搭配錯，搭配正確只有幾種方式。這就是樂趣所在――要搭配出精緻品味有點難，但是做到以後又很有成就感。”

As a general rule, it's wise to err on the side of understatement. Employing a tie clip? Skip the lapel pin. Considering multiple rings? Leave that look to the likes of Johnny Depp.

一般來說，保守一點是比較明智的。想用領帶夾？那就不要領針了。想戴好幾枚戒指？還是把這種裝扮留給強尼・戴普(Johnny Depp)那種人吧。

With bracelets, too, less can be more. Let the Zoolanders flaunt coils of rope and leather that creep up their forearms. For laymen, one does the trick. Robert Bryan, author of the book 'American Fashion Menswear,' is a proponent of the classic chain link ID bracelet. With men's jewelry, generally, 'silver is the safer choice,' said Mr. Bryan, who also advised caution when it comes to decorative stones. 'They should be small and discreet, lest you be known as the Diamond Jim Brady of the office.'

手鐲也是一樣，寧少勿多。讓超級名模祖蘭德(Zoolander)們手臂上纏着一卷卷繩子和皮革招搖吧。對普通人來說，一件佩飾足夠。《美國時尚男裝》(American Fashion Menswear)一書作者羅伯特・布萊恩(Robert Bryan)是經典ID手鍊的推崇者。布萊恩說，對於男士首飾，一般來說“銀飾是比較保險的選擇”。他還提醒男士在佩戴石頭首飾時因該注意：“應該小而低調，以免變成辦公室裏的 石吉姆・布拉迪(Diamond Jim Brady)。”

It also helps to wear pieces that have a significance beyond sheer aesthetics -- jewelry that has a history or was received as a gift. 'I think for men, the key is that it have meaning,' said Lisa Salzer, who designs women's jewelry for her own label, Lulu Frost, and recently spun off a men's line called George Frost. Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president of menswear at Barneys New York, noted that bracelets are often bought as gifts since, unlike rings, they usually don't need to be sized.

佩戴除了純粹美感之外有特殊意義的首飾也不錯――比如擁有一段歷史的首飾或者別人饋贈的禮物。Lulu Frost創始人、該品牌女士珠寶設計師麗莎・薩爾澤(Lisa Salzer)說：“我覺得對男士來說，關鍵在於得有意義。”該品牌最近還推出了名爲George Frost的男士品牌。紐約巴尼斯精品店(Barneys New York)男裝執行副總裁湯姆・卡倫德里安(Tom Kalenderian)指出，人們通常會購買手鍊作爲禮物，因爲和戒指不同，手鍊的尺寸無所謂。

Casual wrist-wear -- beads and bracelets made of worn leather and nautical-style rope, like those popularized by American brand Miansai -- suggests a life of adventure, imagined or not. However, more sophisticated pieces can carry a compelling back story, too. Jewelry designer Monique Pean, who recently launched a men's line, uses materials with notable past lives. Ms. Pean's tie clip is made of 18-karat recycled white gold, and ivory from a wooly mammoth sourced from the Arctic Circle, as well as onyx. 'Men gravitate toward fossils,' she noted.

休閒腕飾――用舊皮革以及航海風格的麻繩做成的手串和手鐲，就像美國品牌Miansai推廣開來的那些――意味着一種冒險的生活，無論是想像還是現實。然而，更精緻的首飾也會傳達引人入勝的背後故事。最近推出一個男士珠寶品牌的珠寶設計師莫妮克・佩昂(Monique Pean)採用的是有着豐富歷史的老材料。她的領帶夾是用18克拉回收白金、北極圈長毛猛?象象牙以及縞瑪瑙做成的。她說：“男人會被化石所吸引。”

Her distinctive clip brings a layer of intrigue to what can otherwise be a pragmatic accent. (The tie clip -- also known as tie bar or tie clasp -- does serve a function, unlike other pieces of jewelry: It keeps your tie straight, out of your face on a windy day and off of your plate.)

她這枚獨具特色的領帶夾讓一件原本實用的首飾平添了一重神祕色彩。（這枚領帶夾確實有實用功能，這跟其他首飾不同：它會讓你的領帶保持筆直，颳風天不會吹到臉上，吃飯時不會掉到盤子裏。）

The clip should be narrower than the tie on which it's worn, said Mr. Thoreson. The correct placement is between the third and fourth shirt buttons. It should also be perfectly horizontal, though Mr. Bryan suggested that daring men might try the downward-tilted 'rakish angle' that flourished in the 1930s.

託雷森說，領帶夾應該比領帶窄。正確的位置是襯衫第三顆和第四顆釦子之間。還應該與領帶垂直，不過布萊恩表示，大膽的男士可以嘗試1930年代流行的略向下傾斜的“狂放不羈的角度”。

Hogan Gidley, a Republican consultant based in Columbia, S.C., and Washington, D.C., wears a sterling-silver tie clip from Tiffany's that's engraved with his initials. 'I might be an outlier in the party for wearing a tie clip, but I have seen more Republican pundits on TV starting to dabble in [them],' he said.

南卡羅來納州哥倫比亞(Columbia)及華盛頓特區共和黨顧問霍根・吉德利(Hogan Gidley)戴了一枚來自蒂芙尼(Tiffany)的純銀領帶夾，上面刻着他名字的首字母。他說：“在派隊上佩戴領帶夾，我可能顯得不入流，但我看到越來越多的共和黨權威人士開始在電視上戴這種東西。”

Known in political circles for being a dapper dresser, Mr. Gidley also sports a signet ring; it's engraved with a family crest that, he said, dates back hundreds of years. Signet rings are more prevalent in the South, he noted, and can also bear the crest or seal of the wearer's alma mater.

吉德利講究穿戴在政治圈中是出了名的，他還戴着一枚圖章戒指。他說，這枚戒指印着一個擁有數百年曆史的家族徽章。他說，圖章戒指在南方更流行，還可以印母校的徽章或印章。

The signet ring is an age-old emblem of aristocratic belonging, yet designer brands are reworking the look, if not also the underlying message, into fashion accessories. See: Eddie Borgo (inlaid rubber), Bottega Veneta (a crosshatch motif that mimics the brand's signature woven leather) and Ms. Pean (fossilized walrus ivory). One savvy tactic is to wear the ring up against a wedding band, thereby confining digital decoration to a single finger.

這枚圖章戒指是一個屬於貴族的古老徽章，不過各大設計師品牌把它改造成了時尚配飾，或許它所隱含的信息也被改變了。埃迪・波爾格(Eddie Borgo)（內嵌橡膠）、寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)（模仿該品牌標誌性編織皮革的交叉陰影圖案）、還有佩昂（化石海象象牙）都是很好的例子。一個精明的策略是和結婚戒指戴在一起，這樣就可以把裝飾限制在一根手指上。

Another badge that has become more of a style statement is the lapel pin. In the form of an American flag, it is de rigueur among politicians. But luxury labels have embraced pins as well. Several years ago, Italian brand Isaia created a mini-craze for the coral-shaped lapel pins that come with its jackets. And fashion houses that once tacked lapel pins onto suits as a bit of runway-only styling are now selling the accessories in stores. This spring, Louis Vuitton is offering pins shaped like pretzels and marijuana roach clips while Saint Laurent is selling one that looks like a surfer shooting the curl.

另一種越來越像是時尚宣言的徽章是領針。美國國旗形式的領針已經成爲政客們的社交禮儀必備品了。但奢侈品牌也將領針納入了時尚界。幾年前，意大利品牌Isaia外套上的珊瑚形領針掀起了一陣小小的熱潮。曾經把領針作爲時裝秀造型和西裝搭配的時裝品牌現在開始在店裏銷售這些配飾了。今年春季，路易威登(Louis Vuitton)推出了形如椒鹽脆餅(pretzels)和大麻香菸菸嘴的領針，而Saint Laurent推出了一款形似衝浪手踩着浪花的領針。

Lapel pins can add a hint of personality in more buttoned-up work environments. 'A lot of guys in my line of work don't want to draw attention to themselves. They'd rather just wear the uniform,' said Chris Schumacher, a 37-year-old Manhattan financier. He wasn't speaking for himself -- he's partial to nautical rope bracelets, and wears an enamel fox-hunting pin on his overcoat. He added, 'It's nice to see people getting away from just the watch and ring.'

在比較嚴肅的工作環境中，領針會給人增添一絲個性。曼哈頓37歲的金融家克里斯・舒馬克(Chris Schumacher)說：“在我們這行，很多人都不想吸引別人的注意力。他們寧願只穿制服。”他並不是在爲自己辯護――他偏愛航海風格的麻繩手鍊，大衣上戴着一枚琺琅獵狐領針。他說：“很高興看到人們開始擺脫單調的手錶和戒指了。”