紐約時裝週:一位新模特的後臺生活

1 Kel Markey, Rookie Model
Beyond the glitz and glamour of the runway shows at New York Fashion Week are the chaotic schedules maintained by the models who give life to the gossamer pieces of fabric. Kel Markey, a 19-year old from Gainesville, Florida started modeLing in March 2010 as an opportunity to travel and to pay for college. Represented by Supreme Management, one of the top modeling agencies in the business, Kel in her short six-month career she has already done a lookbook (a compilation of photographs showcasing a designer's collection) for Calvin Klein and has been featured in an editorial for the British style magazine Dazed and Confused. This is the story of her first New York fashion week.
凱爾.瑪姬 模特新手
在紐約時裝週T臺秀的炫目光彩背後，是獻身於裙裾飄飄的模特們所遵循的亂糟糟的時間表。19歲的凱爾.瑪姬來自佛羅里達的基因斯維爾，她於2010年3月開始模特生涯，爲的是使自己有機會旅行，並能夠掙到錢支付大學學費。凱爾由“超級管理”公司代理，這是行業裏頂級的模特代理公司。在她短短六個月的模特生涯裏，凱爾已經爲卡爾文·克萊恩製作了一本“展示冊”（一種展示某設計師作品的照片圖冊），還成爲英國時尚雜誌Dazed and Confused的主編特寫人物。本篇是凱爾第一次參加紐約時裝週的故事。

2 Fit for Show
Before models can take to the runway, they must meet the designer for a fitting to decide what clothes they will wear for the show. Above, Kel is fitted by designer Sally LaPointe for a show to be held the following day. This process usually lasts anywhere from 15-30 minutes per model, but can often stretch late into the night as designers finalize who wears what.
首場演出
在模特們上場之前，必須先由時裝設計師做“設配”，決定她們穿哪種時裝出場。上圖爲凱爾正在由設計師塞莉做次日演出的設配，這個過程無論在哪裏進行，每個模特一般需要15到30分鐘，但等設計師最後決定每個人穿什麼時裝出場，常常要拖延到深夜。

3 Walking to Walk
Although the majority of fashion week shows are held at Lincoln Center, the geography of New York Fashion Week extends all across town, as models juggle schedules filled with castings, fittings and off-site shows. Although many models take cabs, Kel prefers to walk or take the subway. While walking, she is often on the phone checking in with her booker for updates to her packed schedule. "They kind of become your family during fashion week," says Kel. However, nothing beats actual family, as Kel took a moment to check in with her mom who was visiting from Florida for the week.
走去上班
雖然大多數時裝秀都在林肯中心舉辦，但紐約時裝週活動的地理位置貫穿整個城區，因爲模特們排得滿滿的時間表裏有演出，做設配和場外表演等等。儘管許多模特都打的，但凱爾寧可步行或者乘地鐵。她常常一邊走路一邊打電話，和她的僱主確認她繁忙的時間表是否有新的變化。她說，“在時裝週的時候，他們幾乎成了我的家人。”然而沒有人能和真正的家人相比，凱爾抽空去見了從佛羅里達到紐約來住一個星期的母親。

4 The Look
"She is a really good model — a bit of a chameleon," says Melissa Batsel, a casting director who booked Kel for the Juan Carlos Obando and Yigal Azrouel shows. "She wears clothes and turns into whatever the stylist needs whether it is working a couture gown or an edgy downtown look. And she has a depth of intelligence in her eyes — worldly and soulful."
扮相
“她真是一名優秀的模特，有點百變，”梅麗莎.芭塞爾說。芭塞爾是演出導演，僱用凱爾做Juan Carlos Obando和Yigal Azrouel的作品秀。“她穿上時裝，能滿足任何風格的要求，無論是時裝禮服還是新銳的城市服飾。她眼睛裏有一種知性的深度，既世俗又空靈。”

5 Made Up
Models are chosen for shows based on certain intangibles that they can project, like sexy, chic or other alluring qualities. Although most models possess otherworldly beauty, hair and makeup stylists complete the fantasy that is fashion week with their own skills and artistry.
化妝
模特們之所以能被選上走秀臺，是由於她們能散發出某種無形的特質，如性感，優雅或其它誘人的品質。儘管大多數模特都具有非凡的美麗，在時裝週上，髮型和化妝師能用他們的技藝使夢幻更爲完美。

6 Repast
"See," Kel says, "models eat too!" Food is often provided backstage at shows for hungry models and members of the media. Although the fare provided varies from show to show, typically, the larger the venue, the more elaborate the catering budget. (For the record, Kel had to remind this absent-minded journalist to eat lunch.)
用餐
“看，模特也要吃飯！”凱爾說。演出時，主辦方會在後臺向飢腸轆轆的模特和媒體記者們提供食品。雖然各場演出提供的飯食不盡相同，一般說來，越是大場面，伙食標準越高。（在錄音時，凱爾提醒心不在焉的記者吃午飯。）

7 The Rack
Each outfit, or look, is neatly organized backstage along with the models' photographs — a modicum of order in the chaos that goes into producing a fashion show. Models usually get into their first looks about 5-10 minutes before the show, but some models are required to walk the runway a second time with a different look, a process that requires a team of dressers and stylists on hand to help with the frenzied metamorphosis.
衣架
每套服裝，或扮相，都在後臺整齊地和模特照片安放在一起，這是製作一套時裝秀的大混亂中少有的井井有條。模特通常在走臺開始前五到十分鐘穿上第一套服裝。但有些模特需要穿另外一套服裝第二次走臺，這就需要服裝師和髮型師隨時候場，以幫助快速換裝。

8 Rushed
Staying true to the unpredictability of fashion week, the Charlotte Ronson show took about 20 minutes longer than expected, requiring Kel to rush to her final show of the day. Luckily her mother Kelly was waiting outside with a cab ready to go. The two of them quickly undid Kel's hairstyle for the Ronson show in the backseat leaving Kel a moment to relax with a quick snack.
趕場
時裝週常有不測變化，這話不錯。Charlotte Ronson專場結束比原定時間晚了20分鐘，凱爾不得不匆匆趕往當天最後一個秀場。幸好她母親叫好出租車等在外面隨時準備出發。在出租車後座上，母女兩人快速卸下上一場秀的髮型，凱爾還小小地打了一個盹。

9 Lined Up
Although she arrived at her following venue, the A Detacher (pronounced ah day-tah-shay) show late, a team of makeup artists and hair stylists had her ready to walk in about 10 minutes.
排隊
雖然她趕到下一場秀，A Detacher秀的場地遲到了，化妝師和髮型師們用了大約10分鐘時間就把她準備好了。

10 Into the Night
Kel's day, which started at 11am and ended at 8pm was an easy day by her measure, as most other days start substantially earlier and end much later. ONce New York fashion week is over, Kel will board a plane and head to London, to work the shows there. Asked what she would like to do after fashion, Kel is half serious when she answers, "I want to save the planet." Indeed, she will be starting at NYU this fall, focusing on Environmental Studies.
夜深了
用凱爾自己的標準來衡量，從上午11點開工到晚上8點收工，就是日子很好過的一天了。 大多數日子開工要早得多，收工也更晚。到紐約時裝週結束後，凱爾會飛往倫敦去參加那裏的走秀。問她等以後不做時裝表演了想做什麼，凱爾半認真地回答說，“我想拯救地球。”確實，今年秋天她要到紐約大學去上學，專業是環境研究。