漁業困境下 中國傳統漁村的生存危機
YUMINGZUI VILLAGE, China — On a moonless night, when there was nothing in the air except the smell of rotting seaweed and the songs of drunken fishermen, Wang Xinfeng sneaked onto a boat by the dock and sailed into the darkness.
中國魚鳴嘴村——在一個無月之夜，空氣中只有腐爛的海藻的氣味，只聽得見醉醺醺的漁民的歌聲，王新峯偷偷潛入一艘停靠在碼頭邊的漁船，駛入了黑暗之中。
Like his father and grandfather before him, Mr Wang, 53, made a living combing the Yellow Sea for flounder, herring, fat greenling and yellow croaker.
和他的父親、祖父此前一樣，53歲的王新峯也是靠與黃海搏鬥爲生，從中獲取比目魚、鯡魚、大瀧六線魚和黃花魚。
But now the government, hoping to limit environmental damage and encourage villagers to find new jobs, had banned fishing during the summer.
但現在政府已經下令今年夏季禁捕。政府希望對環境的破壞進行控制，鼓勵漁民尋找新的工作。
Mr Wang, desperate to pay medical bills, had taken to venturing into the water at night to avoid detection.
王新峯急需支付醫療賬單，開始大着膽子在夜間入海捕魚，以避免被人看到。
I was raised at sea — this is my home, he said.
我是在海邊長大的——大海是我的家，他說。
Even if it’s a rough life, I have to fish.
雖然艱辛，我還是得捕魚。
For centuries, residents of Yumingzui, a village of 562 people in the eastern province of Shandong, enjoyed a quiet life by the ocean, harvesting enough fish, sea cucumbers and abalone to support a prosperous seafood trade.
魚鳴嘴是東部省份山東的一座人口爲562人的村莊。幾個世紀以來，這裏的村民一直在海邊過着寧靜的生活，可以捕到足夠的魚類、海蔘和鮑魚，支撐起繁榮的海鮮貿易。
While nearby villages fell victim to tourism and development, Yumingzui persevered, clinging to ancient fishing rites and homes made of seaweed.
儘管附近的村莊先後成爲旅遊與開發的犧牲品，魚鳴嘴卻得以倖免。這裏的村民一直堅持在世代相傳的地點捕撈，住在海草房裏。
Now Yumingzui is on the verge of extinction.
現在，魚鳴嘴卻瀕臨消失。
Pollution, overfishing and rising sea temperatures, brought on by global warming, have devastated the supply of fish.
污染、過度捕撈和由全球變暖帶來的海洋溫度的不斷上升，摧毀了這裏的漁業資源。
Local officials, hoping to invigorate the economy and reduce reliance on outdated industries, have imposed restrictions on fishing and ordered the village to be demolished next year to make way for a luxury resort.
當地官員一心想提振地方經濟、減少對陳舊產業的依賴，於是對捕撈進行限制，還要求明年將這個村子拆除，用以建造一座豪華度假村。
The plan has prompted fear among the people of Yumingzui, many of whom trace their ancestry back hundreds of years.
這項計劃在魚鳴嘴村民中引發了擔憂，他們當中有許多人的祖先在這裏生活的時間可以追溯幾百年。
Some are wrestling with the loss of a place they consider sacred.
一些人奮力抗爭，希望可以避免失去他們眼中的神聖之地。
Others have deep anxieties about adopting a modern lifestyle, worried about prospects for a new career and the high cost of amenities like electricity.
另一些則對轉向現代化的生活方式存有深深的顧慮，擔心新職業的前景，也擔心使用電力等便利設施的成本太高。
Many fishermen have pledged to keep fishing, even after the village is destroyed.
很多漁民表示在村莊被拆毀之後還會繼續捕魚。
What else can I do, become an accountant? Mr Wang said as he carried buckets of bait and trash through ankle-high mud.
不然我要幹啥，當會計？王新峯一邊說，一邊提着幾桶魚餌和垃圾穿越沒過腳踝的泥地。
Yumingzui, named for the cries of the fish that were said to surround its shores, was once a fisherman’s paradise.
魚鳴嘴得名於村莊近海，在岸上可以聽到魚鳴之聲。
Its location near the southern tip of Qingdao, a major port city once occupied by Japan and Germany, gave it access to a booming market for seafood.
這裏曾是漁民的天堂。它靠近曾被日本和德國佔領的大港口城市青島的最南端，可以方便地進入一個日漸興旺的海鮮市場。
But lax enforcement of fishing and antipollution rules, as well as the proliferation of commercial fishing boats, has left the surrounding waters depleted of the delicacies that visitors demand.
不過，捕撈和反污染法規執行上的鬆懈，以及商業捕撈船的迅速增加，使周邊水域的漁產被耗盡，令遊客無法享用他們想要的美味佳餚。
Across eastern China, overfishing has become a crisis, and species that were once common, like eel and Spanish mackerel, are now scarce.
在中國整個東部沿海，過度捕撈逐漸成爲一種危機，海鰻和鮁魚等曾經很常見的物種如今陷入匱乏。
In 2014, fishermen caught 13 million tons of fish, official statistics show, exceeding the national limit by more than four million tons.
官方統計數據顯示，2014年漁民捕撈了1300萬噸漁產，超越了全國不能多於400萬噸的限制。
In hard-hit areas, the government has sought to promote tourism as an alternative to fishing, encouraging villagers to lead tours and open hotels and restaurants.
在受衝擊比較嚴重的地區，政府試圖促進旅遊業的發展，將之作爲漁業的替代。它們鼓勵村民帶旅遊團，經營旅館和餐館。
In some towns, bulletin boards offer guidance on being good hosts, reminding people to dress nicely and dutifully respond to questions from visitors.
在一些城鎮，公告欄上提供了一些有關如何做好東道主的指導，提醒人們注意穿着，盡職盡責地迴應遊客的提問。
In recent years, dozens of villages have been demolished to make room for resorts catering to the growing middle class, with names like Golden Sand and Mangrove Tree.
最近幾年，陸續有幾十座村莊遭到拆除，讓道給迎合日益增多的中產階級需求的度假村，往往還會給這些地方起個金沙和紅樹林這樣的名字。
The increase in tourism has helped spread prosperity to villages like Yumingzui, but the high demand for seafood has also brought destruction to the environment.
旅遊業的發展將繁榮帶至魚鳴嘴這樣的村莊，但對海鮮的高需求也對環境造成了破壞。
I love the sea, but not everybody respects the rule of nature, said Liu Qiang, 46, who was born and raised in Yumingzui.
我愛大海，但不是所有人都尊重大自然的規律，46歲的劉強說。他在魚鳴嘴出生，也在這裏長大。
Tourists are the reason fishermen are exploiting the sea.
旅遊是漁民過度捕撈的原因。
Mr Liu said that today, it takes him about two weeks to catch the same amount of fish he could catch in one day in the 1990s.
劉強表示，他在90年代的時候一天能捕到的魚，現在要花大概兩週才能捕到。
When word came several years ago that Yumingzui would be razed to make way for a resort, villagers protested.
幾年前，當魚鳴嘴村將被夷爲平地、用來建度假村的消息傳出時，村民曾表示抗議。
Some traveled to Beijing in hopes of persuading officials to reconsider the decision.
有些人跑到北京，希望能說服官方重新考慮這項決定。
To ease the concerns of villagers, the government offered apartments in a modern complex called South Island Tower, complete with German-style architecture, high-speed internet and palatial entryways.
爲了消除村民的顧慮，政府爲他們提供了公寓，位於名爲南島安置小區的現代住宅區內。那裏有德國風格的建築、高速網絡和富麗堂皇的入口。
But several residents said they were still unsatisfied.
但好幾位村民表示他們仍然無法接受。
Chen Ruifen, 70, who moved to the village a half century ago when she married her husband, a fisherman, said she thought the plan would benefit local officials, not ordinary people.
年過七旬的陳瑞芬表示，她覺得這個計劃對當地官員有利，對普通百姓則沒什麼好處。半個世紀前，因嫁給這裏的一個漁民，她來到了魚鳴嘴村。
We don’t even have money to put any decorations on our walls, said Ms Chen, a sweet potato, radish and wheat farmer.
我們連刷牆的錢都沒有，陳瑞芬說。她靠種植紅薯、蘿蔔和小麥爲生。
As she sat at the entrance of her courtyard home, her hands dyed purple from picking mulberries, Ms Chen recounted how she had pleaded with officials to keep her home.
她坐在自家庭院的門口，手指因爲採摘桑葚而染得紫紅。她講述了自己如何乞求政府官員留下她的房子。
I’m getting old and dying soon, she said.
我年紀越來越大，也活不久了，她說。
I don’t know what else I can do.
我不知道自己還能做什麼。
Across town, in a house overlooking the southern shore of the village, Xue Li, 45, said he would miss waking up each day to blue skies and the wail of the sea breeze.
在魚鳴嘴另一頭，一座可以俯瞰村子南部海岸景色的房子裏，45歲的薛禮（音）說他會懷念每天早上醒來看見藍天、有海風拂面的日子。
He stared into the distance as the sun set on a row of high-rise apartments across the bay.
他凝視着遠方，日光正灑落在海灣對面一排高聳的公寓樓上。
These are our roots, he said.
這些是我們的根，他說。
Nobody wants to move.
沒人願意搬走。
His son, Xue Shenye, 17, who is studying to become a cook, disagreed.
他17歲的兒子薛申燁（音）則不這麼想。他正在學習如何做廚師。
For young people, he said, Yumingzui is quaint and isolated.
他表示，對年輕人來說，魚鳴嘴既老舊又偏僻。
We can’t live like this forever, he said.
我們不能永遠這麼生活下去，他說。
Many fishermen said they would continue to pursue their lifestyle after they relocated, partly because they considered it a duty, and partly because they did not have other options.
很多漁民表示，在搬遷之後他們會繼續過現在的生活，一方面是因爲他們覺得自己有責任這麼做，另一方面也是由於別無選擇。
Xue Qingbin, 48, who has fished near Yumingzui for more than three decades, said the challenges posed by environmental destruction were becoming more apparent.
現年48歲的薛青濱已經在魚鳴嘴附近捕了30多年的魚。他表示環境破壞帶來的挑戰正變得越來越明顯。
He said there were now only three good months of fishing each year.
他稱，如今每年只有三個月能有不錯的收成。
Still, with a daughter in college and a son in middle school, he said he had no choice but to fish.
但他說，因爲有一個讀大學的女兒和一個上中學的兒子，他沒得選擇，只能繼續捕魚。
We need money to pay for our children’s education, he said, and now we’re getting old and can’t find other jobs.
我們需要賺錢讓孩子上學，他說。現在年紀大了，也找不到其他工作。
After fishing all night, Mr Wang returned from the sea shortly after 8 a.m. with a bucket of jellyfish.
捕了一晚上魚，王新峯在早上八點剛過的時候提着一桶水母回到了村裏。
It was a disappointing catch, and he said he felt the ocean had been particularly unkind that day.
這樣的收穫令人失望，他說他覺得那天晚上的大海尤其不友善。
Mr Wang crossed a beach riddled with the remains of crabs and the skeletons of boats that had been abandoned long ago.
王新峯走過沙灘，上面佈滿了螃蟹的碎渣和被遺棄已久的船隻的殘骸。
He set down his bucket, looked to the horizon and said a prayer for the next day’s catch.
他放下桶，望向天際，祈禱明天能有個好收成。
