紐倫堡納粹遺址 如何保留一段歷史的疤痕
NUREMBERG, Germany — In this city, the rallying point for Hitler, is the largest piece of real estate bequeathed by the Nazis, and a burden only increasing with time.
德國紐倫堡——在這座城市，希特勒曾經的集會地，也是納粹德國留下的最大一塊地標，正隨着時間的推移成爲一個愈發沉重的負擔。
First comes the sheer physical size: a parade ground bigger than 12 football fields. A semicircular Congress Hall that dwarfs any structure at Lincoln Center. Great Street, more than one-and-a-half miles long, with no structures on either side — a modern Appian Way where the storm troopers strutted between the old Nuremberg of Albrecht Dürer and the rallies idolizing the Führer.
首先是它實際的尺度：比12個足球場還大的遊行場地；半圓形的國會大廳讓林肯中心(Lincoln Center)的任何建築都相形見絀；中間的大道長度超過1.5英里，兩側都沒有建築——它像是現代版的亞壁古道(Appian Way)，讓突擊步兵踏着正步，從阿爾布雷希特·丟勒(Albrecht Dürer)筆下的老紐倫堡，一直走向崇敬元首的集會。
Then there are its troubled history and the far stickier question of what to do with it. “These are not simple memorials,” said Mathias Pfeil, chief curator of historic sites in Bavaria, “because they symbolize a time we can only wish had never happened.”
其次是它麻煩的歷史，以及一個遠更棘手的問題：如何對待這些建築？“它們不僅僅是歷史遺蹟，”巴伐利亞歷史遺蹟首席策展人馬蒂亞斯·菲爾(Mathias Pfeil)說，“因爲它們象徵着一個我們寧願沒有發生過的時代。”
As Germany copes with mass migration and blows to its economy, like the Volkswagen scandal, and to its pride, like the allegations it paid bribes to secure its hosting of the 2006 World Cup, it also continues to deal with vestiges of its problematic past. In few places are those questions more vivid than in Nuremberg.
德國面臨着大規模的移民；經濟受到了很大沖擊，如大衆汽車(Volkswagen)的醜聞；該國的自豪感也受到了打擊，如申辦2006年世界盃(World Cup)時通過行賄選中的指控。與此同時，它還需要直面醜惡的過去留下的難題。最能生動地展示這些問題的地方，恐怕就是紐倫堡了。
Should public money be spent to preserve these crumbling sites? Is controlled decay an option for anything associated with the Nazis? Or have Hitler and his architect, Albert Speer, locked future generations into a devilish pact that compels Germans not only to teach the history of the Thousand Year Reich the Nazis proclaimed here but also to adapt it for each new era?
能否花費公共資金保護這些搖搖欲墜的遺址？與納粹相關的任何東西，可以讓它在受控的情況下慢慢頹敗嗎？難道是說希特勒和他的建築師阿爾貝特·施佩爾(Albert Speer)讓未來的世世代代都陷入了一個魔鬼契約，強迫德國人不僅要學習那段納粹在這裏宣佈建立“千年帝國”(Thousand Year Reich)的歷史，還要讓它因時而異地適應時代？
Several dozen experts — and some curious citizens — gathered for a weekend recently to ponder such questions at a forum titled “Preserve. For what?”
最近的一個週末，數十名專家連同一些好奇的市民，在一個題爲“爲何保存？”的論壇上思考了這樣的問題。
The forum kicked off several weeks of events intended to stir citywide discussion before a decision next year on whether to expand existing exhibits and pointers across the four-square-mile site. Participants also pondered whether and how to use apps and other modern techniques to conjure the Nazi universe for present and future generations with no witnesses left to consult.
這個論壇開啓了爲期數週的活動，目的是在明年做出一項決定之前，在全市範圍內掀起廣泛的討論。那個決定涉及的問題是，要不要在這塊四平方英里大小的遺址周圍，擴大現有的展覽和指示牌規模。與會者還討論了能否使用app或其他現代技術，向今天的這代人，以及未來再無目擊者可以詢問的後世，展示納粹的那個空間，如果能的話，又該如何展示。
The forum included speakers like Mayor Ulrich Maly, who argued that there was a clear duty to ensure that Germans and foreign tourists could begin to imagine what unfolded here. For example, the crumbling but still imposing Zeppelin tribune, or grandstand, where the Führer and his henchmen drank in the choreographed adoration from the masses assembled below, features the only surviving lectern where Hitler spoke.
論壇的演講者包括市長烏爾裏希·馬裏(Ulrich Maly)，他提出，確保德國人和外國遊客能夠想象這裏發生過的事情，是一項責任。例如，齊柏林(Zeppelin)講壇雖然日漸頹圮但是仍然宏偉。元首和他的左膀右臂曾站在那裏，陶醉地看着下面的羣衆，整齊劃一地表達崇敬。這是當今僅存的一座希特勒講過話的講臺。
One of the forum-related events is an exhibit that traces the Parteitagsgel渀攙攀, where party congresses were held, since United States troops reached it in 1945 and blew up the towering stone eagle and swastika atop the Zeppelin tribune.
與論壇相關的活動包括一場記錄納粹黨大會會場(Parteitagsgel渀攙攀)變化的展覽。展覽中的歷史始於美軍於1945年抵達這裏，並炸燬齊柏林講壇頂端高聳的石鷹和卐字之時。
Since that decisive move to obliterate a powerful Nazi symbol, the site has been many things to many people. In 1955, the evangelist Billy Graham preached and rallied thousands. The Sudeten Germans, ethnic Germans expelled in 1945 from their ancestral lands to the east, rallied here that year as well. Their rally, noted the exhibit curator Alexander Schmidt, now looks and sounds like a latter-day Nazi gathering.
自從那個清除重要納粹符號的決定性舉動做出之後，這個地點對許多人具有了不同的意義。1955年，福音派傳教士比利·格雷厄姆(Billy Graham)在此佈道，聚集了成千上萬的聽衆。那一年，蘇臺德人也曾在這裏舉行集會。蘇臺德人是德意志人的一支，1945年被從東面世世代代居住的土地上趕走。展覽的策展人亞歷山大·施密特(Alexander Schmidt)表示，他們的集會今天看起來聽起來都像是納粹集會的重現。
In 1978, a year before The Who, Bob Dylan gave a famous concert, playing “Masters of War” and noting, “What a pleasure it is to sing it in this place.”
1978年，鮑勃·迪倫比誰人樂隊早一年開了一場著名的演唱會，表演了歌曲《戰爭大師》(Masters of War)並說到，“在這個地方唱這首歌真是太滿足了！”
In 1995, Billy Joel and his half brother, Alexander, a classical musician, performed here, honoring their father and grandfather, who came from Nuremberg and fled the Nazis.
1995年，比利·喬(Billy Joel)和他同父異母的弟弟，古典音樂家亞歷山大(Alexander)在這裏表演，紀念他們來自紐倫堡逃離納粹的父親和祖父。
Mr. Schmidt, a historian at the museum that opened here in 2001, showed some stills from an iconic early 1960s German documentary, “Brutality in Stone.”
施密特是一位歷史學家，在紐倫堡2001年開放的博物館內工作。他展示了60年代初一部標誌性的德國紀錄片《石中的殘暴》(Brutality in Stone)的一些劇照，。
“These buildings are not harmless,” he emphasized. “They have to do with the Nazis.”
“這些建築並非無關緊要，”他強調說。“它們和納粹有關係。”
Ulrich Herbert, a historian and professor at the Albert Ludwigs University in Freiburg, said the site was important not least because “this is a place where you can understand how the Nazis succeeded in winning people over.” It was here, he noted, that the party staked its claim to absolute power “with an intimidating production that enshrined a cult of the Führer.”
赫伯特教授是弗萊堡艾伯特·路德維格茲(Albert Ludwigs)大學的歷史學家，他說這個遺址很重要，因爲“在這個地方，你可以瞭解納粹怎樣成功地贏得了人們的擁戴。”他指出，正是在這裏，納粹黨運用“令人驚懼的羣衆活動將他們的元首推上神臺”，並據此宣示了對絕對權力的佔有。
That “intimidating production” was chronicled and partly fashioned by Leni Riefenstahl in her 1935 documentary, “Triumph of the Will,” filmed here at the previous year’s Nazi party congress.
那種“令人恐懼的羣衆活動”由萊妮·裏芬斯塔爾(Leni Riefenstahl)參與制作並記錄在她的1935年的紀錄片《意志的勝利》中，該片在這裏拍攝，記錄的是此前一年的納粹黨代表大會。
Her glorification of Hitler — right from the opening when he flies through clouds, descending on Nuremberg like a god from the heavens — skipped features now noted in the city’s museums: the beer-swilling squalor in the city and parade grounds, and the anti-Semitic race laws that Hitler signed during the 1935 party congress here and thus bear Nuremberg’s name.
她美化了希特勒。在影片開始，希特勒飛過雲層，像一位來自天堂的神袛降落在紐倫堡。但這部影片跳過了一些片段，現存於該市博物館的相關記錄顯示了城市和閱兵場中散發啤酒氣息的骯髒角落，以及希特勒在1935年黨代表大會時簽署的反猶太人種族法律，即以該市命名的《紐倫堡法案》。
And naturally, Ms. Riefenstahl had no hint of the justice that would finally be served here, at the Nuremberg war trials started in late 1945, on men like Hermann Goering, Hitler’s second in command.
當然，在裏芬斯塔爾那兒無跡可尋的正義，最終在1945年底開始的紐倫堡審判中，在希特勒副手赫爾曼·戈林(Hermann Goering)這樣人的身上得以伸張。
Courtroom 600, where those trials unfolded, is now part of another museum, across town. Featuring among other treasures the statements of the lead United States prosecutor, Justice Robert H. Jackson, the museum traces a direct arc to present tribunals of international justice in The Hague.
600號法庭是那些審判進行的地點，現在屬於當地另一家博物館的一部分，珍貴的收藏中包括主要的美國檢察官、法官羅伯特H.傑克遜(Robert H. Jackson)的陳述稿。這家博物館繪出了一道弧線，將600號法庭和現在位於海牙的國際法庭連在了一起。
Up to 250,000 people, half of them foreigners, now visit the museum at the site of the party congresses each year. Northern Bavarians in their early teens pay compulsory school visits, experiencing what Mr. Herbert calls “the German peculiarity” of discovering and taking responsibility for the Nazi past, making being German “different than being Swiss.”
現在每年有多達25萬人參觀位於納粹黨國會遺址的博物館，其中有一半是外國人。北巴伐利亞十幾歲的孩子必須跟着學校參觀，體驗赫伯特所說的發現以及對納粹歷史負責的“德國特色”，這使得德國人“有別於瑞士人”。
How modern the memorials and museums here should be was one point of heated discussion among the academics. A British historian, Neil Gregor of the University of Southampton in England, who has chronicled Nazi Nuremberg, argued hardest for contemporary themes, such as refugees, and making the debate more multiethnic.
紀念碑和博物館應該多現代曾一度是學術界討論的一個熱點。英國南安普敦大學的歷史學家尼爾·格萊格(Neil Gregor)曾對納粹時期的紐倫堡進行記錄，他堅決主張加入難民問題等當代主題，並使辯論變得更加民族多元化。
Others wanted the focus firmly on the Third Reich.
其他人想要堅定地把重點放在第三帝國上。
Nurembergers younger than 25, who have grown up in a united Germany with no memory of the United States troops who left here in 1994, scarcely have the same interest in or sensitivities to the Nazi structures as their parents, said Michael Husarek, a father of six who is deputy editor of the local newspaper Nürnberger Nachrichten.
25歲以下的紐倫堡人，在一個統一的德國長大，對美國軍人1994年的撤離沒有記憶，他們鮮有其父母對納粹建築的興趣和敏感度，邁克爾·哈薩瑞克(Michael Husarek)說。他是六個孩子的父親，也是當地報紙《紐倫堡新聞》(Nürnberger Nachrichten)的副主編。
“For the young, they don’t have the same fears of contact with, say, the parade ground,” he said. “It has always been part of their lives.”
“對於年輕人來說，他們沒有同樣的與閱兵場聯繫在一起的恐懼，”他說。“閱兵場一直都是他們生活的一部分。”
