追隨奧黛麗赫本的足跡 享受羅馬假日
The silver-haired gentleman in the perfectly tailored dark suit made a sweeping gesture and gave me a wistful smile.
這位紳士滿頭銀髮，身穿剪裁合體的深色西裝，他揮手示意，對我露出一個傷感的笑容。
It was right here, he said.
就是在這裏，他說。
1952
1952年。
He pointed to a particular spot on the floor.
他指着地面上的某一處。
That is where she stood.
她就站在這兒。
If he was alive in 1952 he was a very little boy, but every guide I speak to at the Palazzo Colonna in Rome knows and reveres the spot where she stood.
如果他是在1952年之前出生的，那一年他肯定也只是個小男孩，但是我在羅馬科隆納宮(Palazzo Colonna)遇到的每個導遊都知道她站立的那個地方，並且對之滿懷敬意。
Roman Holiday was the first American film to be shot in its entirety in Italy, and she was Audrey Hepburn in her first film role, playing a princess on the lam who spends one glorious day in Rome with a journalist who figures he has the scoop of his career.
《羅馬假日》(Roman Holiday)是第一部完全在意大利拍攝的美國電影，而她則是奧黛麗•赫本(Audrey Hepburn)飾演的第一個電影角色，一位出逃的公主，在羅馬同一個覺得自己挖到了畢生最大獨家新聞的記者度過了美好的一天。
Gregory Peck was the journalist; it didn’t take long for the scoop to turn into a brief romance.
飾演記者的是格利高裏•派克(Gregory Peck)；要不了多久，挖新聞就變成了一段短暫的羅曼史。
Roman Holiday was released in 1953, not 1952, but in context the guide is correct: She stood there in 1952, when the film was shot.
《羅馬假日》是在1953年上映的，而不是1952年，但是在這裏，這個導遊是對的：電影是在1952年拍攝的，那時她的確站在這裏。
I walked over to stand where Ms Hepburn did in the film’s final scene, as the princess prepared to bid farewell to Rome, to Mr Peck, and to a room full of real journalists drafted to fill out the press conference — and although I have been a moviegoer since I was a child, I was not prepared for how delighted I would be to be exactly there, surrounded by make-believe memories.
我走過去，站在赫本在影片最後一幕裏站過的地方，當時這位公主要同羅馬、同派克以及滿屋被拉來參加新聞發佈會的真正記者們道別——我從小就愛看電影，然而親身站在這裏，被虛構的記憶所圍繞竟會讓人如此快樂，這感覺還是來得猝不及防。
This was my first visit to Rome, and I faced my own time constraints.
這是我第一次來羅馬，我也有自己的時間限制。
Too many friends said that it was impossible to see Rome in the three days I had, but things worked out pretty well for Princess Ann, so I decided to go where she did.
我只能在這裏待三天，很多朋友都說這根本就不夠，但是既然安妮公主都玩得很開心，我也決定去她去過的那些地方。
She had one day, a knowledgeable guide in Mr Peck’s Joe Bradley, and the use of a Vespa; I had three days on foot.
她有一天時間、一個像派克飾演的喬•布拉德利(Joe Bradley)那樣博學多才的嚮導，以及一輛偉士牌(Vespa)機車；我則有三天時間，需要步行。
Much of what they saw was hundreds if not thousands of years old, so it would be right where they left it.
他們看過的大部分景點不是有着幾千年歷史，就是已經存在了數百年，所以應該還和當年一樣。
Joe Bradley was looking for great copy and photo ops, while the princess, by her own admission, wanted to have fun — and maybe a little excitement, and I liked their itinerary, with its mix of ruins, food, window-shopping and dancing.
喬•布拉德利想做精彩的圖文報道，而這位公主承認，她想找樂子——或許還想得到一點刺激的感覺。我喜歡他們的行程，去探訪歷史遺蹟、享用美食、還有逛街和跳舞。
The Palazzo was surely the most formal of the film’s locations.
科隆納宮肯定是影片中最正式的地點。
I vowed to include as well the Castel Sant’Angelo, the backdrop for the wackiest scene in the film, a melee that involved music under the stars, the princess using a guitar in self-defense, an unplanned late-night swim and, this being Hollywood, a glimpse of fleeting love.
我決心一定要去，還有聖天使堡(Castel Sant’Angelo)，片中最奇異的一幕就是以它爲背景，那是一團大混戰：星光下放着音樂，公主用吉他當武器保護自己，計劃之外的深夜遊泳，還有好萊塢免不了的短暫愛情。
I watched the film again before I left, consulted the website for local information, and mapped the rest of my visit.
我動身之前把這部片子重新看了一遍，從網站上查到了當地信息，在地圖上標記了餘下的行程。
The Arch of Septimus Severus and the Temple of Saturn
塞維魯凱旋門(The Arch of Septimus Severus)與薩圖爾諾農神廟(Temple of Saturn)
Princess Ann fled her country’s embassy after yet another night of reviewing the next day’s schedule and a bedtime snack of milk and crackers.
安妮公主在自己國家的使館裏看過翌日的行程，睡前喝了牛奶，吃了餅乾後就從那裏溜出來了。
She escaped in the back of a truck, and Joe Bradley found her half-asleep on a low wall in front of the arch.
她逃進一輛卡車後部，喬•布拉德利發現她在拱門前的一堵矮牆上半睡半醒。
To the right, the eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn, built in 476 B.C.
在她右邊是八根薩圖爾諾農神廟的殘存石柱，那裏於公元前476年建立。
This location is at the northwest end of the Roman Forum, for those who come here to look at the ruins — which the princess and the journalist did not.
提醒一下想來這裏參觀遺蹟的人，這個地方位於古羅馬廣場(Roman Forum)的西北角。
But I had time and daylight on my side, so I lingered to consider the vast scale of the Forum.
片中公主和和記者並沒有觀賞遺蹟，但我有足夠的時間，白天還長，所以我就在廣場上漫步，盤算着它到底有多大。
Yes, I leaned against the very wall where Ms Hepburn pretended to slumber; not quite as good as being discovered by Mr Peck, but it would have to do.
是的，我也靠在了赫本在拍片時靠着裝睡的那堵牆上；雖然沒有被派克發現那麼美妙，但也只能這樣了。
The Colosseum
圓形大劇場(The Colosseum)
In the days before computer-generated images, real men tore each other apart, and this is where they did it.
在電腦生成畫面技術之前的歲月裏，真正的男性鬥士搏命廝殺，這裏就是他們動手的地方。
The largest amphitheater in the world had just a few strategically placed tourists in it when a guide explained its 2,000-year history to Princess Ann and Joe.
羅馬圓形大劇場是世界上最大的圓形劇場，片中一位導遊給安妮公主和喬講解它2000年曆史的時候，偌大的場地裏只有幾個遊客，他們的位置也是精心安排的。
Times have changed: Occasionally the admissions lines grind to a halt because no more than 3,000 visitors can enter the Colosseum at any one time.
時代已經變了：如今，入口的長隊不時會慢慢停下來，因爲圓形大劇場只允許同時容納3000名遊客。
But do not be dissuaded.
但是不要放棄。
I expected a quick stroll and then the real-life equivalent of a jump cut to the next scene, but the more I walked, the more I wanted to walk, to try to grasp the graceful enormity of this violent place.
我本來只希望匆匆逛一下，然後就去影片下一幕在現實中的取景地，但我越往前走，就越想走下去，想了解這處暴力場所優雅的巨大形貌。
Piazza della Rotonda, the Pantheon
萬神殿(Pantheon)
If you were a princess in 1953, you ordered Champagne for lunch.
如果你是一位1953年的公主，午餐時就會點香檳喝。
But the G.
但是羅馬萬神殿(Pantheon)旁邊的G.
Rocca cafe by the Pantheon is no more.
Rocca餐廳如今已經不在了。
Now there are two less glamorous but satisfying options: L’Antica Salumeria at Piazza della Rotonda 4 greets the hungry at the door with free samples of porchetta, and inside serves an array of sandwiches and antipasti.
現在有兩個選擇，雖然相對沒那麼富有魅力，但也足以令人滿意：羅通達廣場(Piazza della Rotonda)4號的L’Antica Salumeria在門前用免費試吃的豬肉捲來歡迎飢腸轆轆的遊客，屋內還有許多種三明治與開胃菜。
Just off the opposite side of the square, at Tazza d’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84, you can get the signature granita di caffè con panna, sweetened coffee frozen to a granular slush and topped with whipped cream.
廣場的另一頭是Via degli Orfani 84號的金盃咖啡館(Tazza d’Oro)，那裏可以買到招牌的奶油冰咖啡，這是一種凍成冰泥的甜咖啡，頂上是鮮奶油霜。
Ann paid no attention to the hulking Pantheon.
安妮沒去留意龐大的萬神殿。
I think that’s why I embraced her tour; sitting at a sidewalk cafe, watching the world go by, is a great way to experience a city.
我覺得正因如此，我才喜歡她的旅行；坐在路邊咖啡館裏，看着世界在身邊流逝，這是體驗城市的好辦法。
The Spanish Steps
西班牙階梯(The Spanish Steps)
This is where Joe found Ann eating a chocolate gelato she bought from a cart at the base of the steps, in the Piazza di Spagna.
在西班牙廣場(Piazza di Spagna)，喬發現安妮正在吃從臺階底端的冰淇淋車買來的巧克力冰淇淋。
She lied and said that she had run away from school, and he offered to help her plan her day of fun and excitement.
她謊稱自己是從學校跑出來的，他則提議帶着她尋歡作樂一整天，找找刺激。
The sweeping 135-step stairway, built between 1723 and 1725, links the Piazza di Spagna with the Piazza Trinità dei Monti at the top.
這段漫長的135級臺階是在1723年到1725年間建造的，把西班牙廣場和階梯頂端的山上天主聖三教堂(Piazza Trinità dei Monti)連在一起。
And while you can purchase a selfie stick from any one of a dozen vendors, there was no gelato cart.
如今那裏有十幾個小販，你可以從隨便哪個人手上買一個自拍杆，只是冰淇淋車已經沒有了。
Palazzo Colonna
科隆納宮(Palazzo Colonna)
The director William Wyler shot Roman Holiday in black and white to save money, so the most startling thing about the great hall in Palazzo Colonna is that it’s saturated with color, the walls covered in paintings.
爲了省錢，導演威廉•惠勒(William Wyler)把《羅馬假日》拍成了黑白片，所以科隆納宮大廳最讓我震撼的就是它充滿了色彩，四壁都掛着油畫。
It is one of the oldest and biggest private palaces in Rome; construction got underway in the 14th century and went on for five centuries, and members of the family still live here.
這是羅馬最古老，最宏大的私人宮殿之一；於公元14世紀開始興建，一直持續了五個世紀，如今這個家族的成員依然居住在這裏。
Art lovers pack the Saturday tours — English language at noon.
星期六，藝術愛好者們大批趕來——這天中午有英語解說。
Or you can wander without a guide on that day only from 9 in the morning to 1:15 in the afternoon.
不過在這一天裏，你也可以不跟隨導遊，自己在宮殿內閒逛，不過開放時間只是從早9點到下午1:15。
This is where the story ends.
這裏是故事結束的地方。
The princess realized that Joe was a journalist and the two recited the kind of coded but passionate dialogue that only they — and the film’s audience — understood.
公主發現喬是記者，兩人交換了如同暗碼但又充滿激情的對話，只有他們兩人才懂——當然電影觀衆們也能心領神會。
