要買就買跨季裝 A plan for all seasons
In 1985, when Donna Karan launched Seven Easy Pieces, the collection of stretch jersey bodysuits and separates intended to underpin every woman’s wardrobe whatever the season, she said, “I’m designing for an international woman. A creative person who never knows where a day is going to take them.”
1985年，唐娜慍灓(Donna Karan)推出了Seven Easy Pieces七件裝，它由緊身彈力運動衣及其它單件裝組成，能讓每位女性遊刃有餘地應對每個季節。她曾這樣說過：“我專爲滿世界忙活的女強人設計。時裝設計師永遠不知道這些女強人的行蹤有多麼飄忽不定。”
Thirty years on, Karan has stepped away from her label but the trans-seasonal concept is more relevant than ever. With our increasingly globetrotting lifestyles, wardrobes are becoming less and less delineated. The notion of trans-seasonal dressing (clothes that work beyond their allotted autumn/winter or spring/summer slots) has for some time been on the minds of designers and buyers; now it is becoming the norm for shoppers.
30年後的今天，卡蘭已退居二線（不再擔任自己品牌的設計總監），但跨季概念如今比以往任何時候都顯得重要。隨着環球型生活方式日趨盛行，女性衣櫥的季節性界限變得越發模糊。一段時間以來，跨季服飾的理念一直縈繞在設計師與買家的腦海；如今，它越來越成爲時尚買家的不二選擇。
“Seasons are becoming less relevant because the customer no longer thinks in those terms,” says Sarah Rutson, Net-a-Porter’s vice-president of global buying. They are increasingly drawn to “buy-now, wear-now fashion with longevity,” she says. “The concept of shopping ‘out of season’ is becoming obsolete because the market-space in which we operate is global.”
“季節性時裝已越來越不重要，因爲消費者內心不再以此來界定。”電商Net-a-Porter全球採購部副總裁莎拉圠森(Sarah Rutson)說。消費者越來越青睞“即買即穿、長時間穿的行頭。”她說。“過季購物的概念日趨過時，因爲我們關注的市場已呈全球化。”
Our wardrobes reflect lives that are packed with travel across time zones and climates. “It’s about investing in quality product that you can wear all year round — the perfect pant, the shirt, the blazer you can layer,” says Rutson. Clothes that suggest simplicity and co-ordination — while, importantly, looking au courant.
女性的衣櫥反映了當今跨越不同時空與氣候帶的環球型生活現狀。“購置適合一年四季的高品質服裝至關重要——能夠安放在行李箱的心儀褲子、襯衣以及運動夾克。”羅森說。攜帶的行頭衣服必須講究簡約與搭配——同時外觀必須與時俱進也至關重要。
Lesson one: don’t confuse trans-seasonal dressing with playing it safe. A host of designers have perfected clothes that elegantly negotiate crossing into a new season. LA-based Rosetta Getty is attracting fans with a version of laid-back luxury delivered in the shape of long cotton shirt-dresses, sleeveless cashmere cardigans and wide-leg cropped trousers — all ideal for layering as temperatures fall.
經驗教訓一：不能把跨季服裝與注重穩妥混爲一談。很多設計師精益求精，設計的服裝能巧妙過渡至下個時裝季。來自洛杉磯的設計師羅塞塔蓋蒂(Rosetta Getty)推出由純棉襯衣式長款連衣裙、無袖羊絨衫以及寬腿七分褲構成的休閒款奢侈裝後，擁躉趨之若鶩——隨着氣溫不斷轉涼，它們是隨箱攜帶的理想行頭。
In New York, Tomas Maier has reinvigorated his eponymous line, making clothes suitable for any climate, while The Row is establishing elegant column skirts, softly tailored jackets and tonal tunic dresses that appeal to both jet-setters and the fashion-literate. Christophe Lemaire specialises in lightweight macs, woollen wrap skirts and cotton apron dresses while other pin-ups for this movement include Caroline de Maigret, with her wardrobe of wide trousers and artfully crumpled men’s shirts, and Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni, who mastered layering long before the rest of the world caught on.
在紐約，托馬斯邁爾(Tomas Maier)通過設計全天候服裝，成功讓自己的同名品牌再煥新顏；而The Row則推出了漂亮半身裙(column skirt)、得體又服帖的夾克衫以及多色調束腰裙裝，讓周遊世界的富翁和時尚擁躉愛不釋手。克里斯托夫勒梅爾(Christophe Lemaire)則專門推出了輕便雨衣、羊毛裹裙以及純棉連衫圍裙，其他流行跨季服裝的知名推手則包括了名模卡洛琳德麥格雷(Caroline de Maigret)與瑪尼(Marni)時尚總監康秀露慍斯第里奧尼(Consuelo Castiglioni)。前者衣櫥掛滿了寬腿褲與摺皺巧妙設計的男款襯衣，後者則早於跨季概念流行風之前就已對此輕車熟路。
“Each time you buy a piece from these brands it’s like collecting something for your wardrobe that you know you will own for a long time,” says Alex Eagle, creative director of The Store Berlin and Alex Eagle Walton Street in London. As well as stocking many of these designers, Eagle recently launched her own line, which she describes as comprising “components that are multifunctional without being complicated, things that you grab when you’re getting ready in a hurry and need to look pulled-together”. The capsule includes a scarf-neck dress that doubles as a tunic, tailored trousers and a silk shirt — all in black-and-white.
“每次買進上述品牌的時裝，自己就知道好比爲自己衣櫥收藏能長久保留的‘寶貝’。”亞歷克斯伊格爾(Alex Eagle)說，她是自己柏林與倫敦沃爾頓街(Walton Street)同名時尚店的創意總監。除了網羅諸多跨季設計師外，她最近還推出了自己的同名系列，她自稱由“幾款簡單實用的服裝組成，匆忙之中就能果斷買下的服裝，而且彼此非常搭配。”該系列包括了一款黑白色圍巾領連衣裙，它集束腰外衣、定製褲子及真絲短裙於一體。
Here’s what to add to your shopping list: two crisp cotton shirts, one in white, one in blue (try Christophe Lemaire, Marie Marot, Protagonist and Acne for contemporary cuts and subtle details); an unidentifiable handbag (those from The Row, Myriam Schaefer and Philipp Bree 0110 are the most discreet); a round-the-clock black dress (thank you, Catherine Quin); and fine-gauge jerseys for layering from Vince or Crippen. According to Louise Trotter, creative director of Joseph, “It is all about longevity and classicism with a bit of an edge. Clothes with slouch, a relaxed fit and quality are our best sellers.
諸位購物時，務必留意以下東西：兩條挺括的純棉短裙（一款爲白色，另一款爲藍色，你們若是青睞當代裁剪式樣以及講究細枝末節的設計，不妨試試克里斯托夫勒梅爾、Marie Marot、Protagonist以及艾克妮(Acne)等品牌）、難以識別品牌的手袋（The Row、Myriam Schaefer以及Philipp Bree 0110那些手袋做工最爲精細）、黑色全天候連衣裙（拜託諸位試一下Catherine Quin）以及Vince或 Crippen的細針距運動衫。在Joseph創意總監路易斯礠坲祿(Louise Trotter)看來：“歸根到底是要能夠長時間跨季穿以及略現新潮的古典風格。慵懶、休閒以及質量上乘的服飾最爲搶手。”
We have started to see easy, unfussy pieces with more masculine cuts getting attention over the structured silhouettes of days gone by.”
於是我們開始看到：“剪裁風格男性化的休閒簡約款式已經逐漸蓋過舊款式服裝的風頭。”
Blazers are an excellent solution for bridging seasons but be sure to opt for an elongated, masculine cut; throw over a sleeveless summer dress or team with co-ordinating trousers when autumn knocks. The label Blazé Milano was founded by three Italian fashion editors, Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri, Sole Torlonia and Delfina Pinardi, with a simple goal: “One product, made well, and made in Italy.” Their handmade blazers come in heavy wool, silk matelassé, raffia and mid-weight linens, although Pinardi explains that the use of heavier textiles such as loden, mohair and heavy wool allows their blazers to be worn “like a little coat, in the winter or in a cold city”.
運動夾克是跨季的絕佳選擇，但務必選擇男式剪裁風格的細長款式；套在無袖夏季連衣裙外面、或是秋季來臨之際與合適的褲子相搭配。Blazé Milano由科拉達科達裏(Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri)、索爾堠洛尼亞(Sole Torlonia)以及德爾菲娜皮納爾迪(Delfina Pinardi)三位意大利時尚編輯創建，其宗旨簡單明瞭：“精心打造的意大利產品。”他們的運動夾克用厚羊毛、馬特拉塞凸紋真絲(silk matelassé)、酒椰葉纖維以及中等重量的亞麻布手工做成，儘管皮納爾迪解釋說採用羅登暱、馬海毛以及厚羊毛等厚重面料製作的運動夾克穿起來“就像小大衣，可在冬日裏或是氣候寒冷的城市禦寒”。
White, black, grey, navy and camel are shortcuts to a cohesive wardrobe but it’s not all about desaturating your colour palette. “I have a dress by Rosetta in bottle green which I live in, and she is now doing an exclusive for us in her beautiful red silk,” says Eagle.
打造理想混搭的衣櫥，最簡單的方法就是添置白色、黑色、藍色、深藍色以及駝色服裝，但此舉壓根不是爲了減少諸位衣櫥的顏色品類。“我平時就常穿羅塞塔設計的一款深綠色連衣裙，她如今用好看的紅色真絲面料爲我們設計一款限量版。”伊格爾說。
Likewise, Rutson notes the impact of Chloé’s dramatic maxidresses (“a continuity piece to be styled up with sandals in the summer and boots in the fall”) and Gucci’s colourful separates (“ideal for trans-seasonal dressing by partnering statement blouses and pants with season-specific items”).
同樣，羅森目睹了蔻依(Chloé)漂亮長裙（“這件跨季連衣裙夏季能與涼鞋搭配穿，秋季則可與長皮靴相搭配”）以及古馳(Gucci)豔麗單件裝引發的震撼效果（“把定製襯衣及褲子與特定季節的單件裝混配，就是最理想的跨季行頭”）。
Does it all sound a little serious? Loosening the reins on your accessories will enliven an otherwise pared-down look. Trotter relies on great shoes to lift her wardrobe go-tos, while Eagle recommends Alice Cicolini’s enamel gobstopper rings to prevent an outfit from becoming subdued. Also worth noting is Sophie Bille Brahe’s contemporary range of pearls: understated and luxurious. As Caroline de Maigret said: it takes effort to look effortless.
這一切聽起來是否有些言重？大膽選擇配飾，就能讓簡約型裝束錦上添花。特羅特藉助大號鞋提升自己跨季服裝的檔次，而伊格爾爲使全身行頭不那麼壓抑，力推Alice Cicolini設計的超大款彩色耳環。丹麥設計師蘇菲比萊布拉赫(Sophie Bille Brahe)設計的當代風格珍珠配飾諸位也不妨留意：既簡約又奢華。正如卡洛琳德麥格雷評價道：無爲相，實則用心爲之也。
