金融危機過後奢侈皮草重新流行

If anything can be deemed utterly superfluous, it's a fur handbag. Tucking one's wallet and keys in mink or beaver is an act of pure let-them-eat-cake extravagance.

如果有任何東西可以說是沒必要的奢侈，那可能就是個皮草手袋。把錢包和鑰匙放進一個用貂毛或海狸毛做的包，展現出來的是那種 “何不食肉糜”的貴氣。所以今年秋天，皮草手袋成爲流行大勢也在情理之中。

So it makes sense that fur handbags would be a big trend for fall. Designers are competing to outdo one another in luxury. AMong the new bling popping out all over is J. Mendel's $6,500 tote made of broadtail (the pelt of a very young lamb). Brunello Cuccinelli's mink backpack with two exterior pockets, priced at $7,830 from Neiman Marcus, might not make many children's back-to-school lists, but it marks the height of the trend.

皮草手袋成爲秋季流行大勢也在情理之中。設計師們競相展示奢華。在這一輪新潮流中有J. Mendel家6,500美元的手提袋，該手提袋採用的是闊尾羔羊皮。Brunello Cuccinelli則推出了外部有兩個口袋的貂皮雙肩包，尼曼(Neiman Marcus)對其定價爲7,830美元， 這樣的雙肩包或許不在小朋友返校需添置的物品之列，但卻將奢華髮揮到了極致。

Stores are stocked with furry bags from Valentino, Burberry, and Fendi. The fall collections, which begin arriving in stores in coming weeks, were a veritable parade of handbags made of fur from the likes of Marchesa, Fendi, Donna Karan, Marni and Derek Lam.

從華倫天奴(Valentino)、博柏利(Burberry)到芬迪(Fendi)衆多品牌都推出了皮草手袋。未來幾周各大名品店將陸續推出今秋新品，馬切薩(Marchesa)、芬迪、唐娜-凱倫(Donna Karan)、Marni和Derek Lam等設計的皮草手袋將繽紛亮相。

A renewed appetite for luxury-even silly luxury-is an outgrowth of the sense among many wealthy consumers that the financial crisis has receded to a distant speck in their rearview mirrors. That sentiment is fueling many segments at the tippy top of the luxury industry. The made-to-order haute couture collections in Paris are experiencing a rebirth. Saks Fifth Avenue, no longer willing to settle for the merely aspirational client, is making itself over as a far more expensive, elite place to shop. Fashion brands report their most expensive products sell out first.

當今不少富有的消費者感覺，金融危機已經漸行漸遠，於是便滋生了對奢侈品（其中一些甚至奢侈到不可思議）的慾望，刺激了奢侈品行業前沿衆多相關領域。巴黎再度掀起定做高級女時裝的風潮。薩克斯第五大道精品百貨店(Saks Fifth Avenue)不再甘心於只爲有強烈需求的客戶服務，正在轉型爲價格更加高昂的精英購物場所。時尚品牌一般都表示，旗下最貴的產品銷路最好。

But this isn't the logo-encrusted bling of the early naughts. It's far more sensual and much more costly, with a focus on rare materials such as crocodile, handmade lace, and animal pelts used in every way imaginable. Fur was flying down the runway on more than handbags in the fall collections. Oscar de la Renta did an embroidered, fur-hemmed flapper dress. Ralph Rucci lined a puffer coat in mink.

但這並不是以前那種印着醒目標識的高檔產品。如今的產品更加感性，價格也更高昂，注重珍稀材料，諸如鱷魚皮、手製蕾絲以及動物皮毛等。在秋季新品中，皮草還被用於手提包之外的產品中。Oscar de la Renta推出了一款皮草鑲邊的刺繡針織短裙。Ralph Rucci則推出了一款貂皮大衣。

A fur handbag is chubby, and it can risk being mistaken for a pet. As fashion trends go, this one borders on goofy-even before you've seen Fendi's $6,600 'Monster' baguette bag, which has a face and fuzzy eyebrows.

皮毛手袋看上去胖乎乎的，有可能會被誤以爲是寵物。就時裝潮流而言，這樣的手袋看上去有些怪怪的──即使你還沒有見過芬迪售價6,600美元的“Monster” 長方形手袋，這款手袋外觀像一張臉，還有毛絨絨的眉毛。

Why would so many designers, living all over the world, arrive at this concept at the identical time? Jason Wu, who had fur bags in his fall collection, says it's because designers are so clued into the cultural psyche and watch all the same consumer proclivities. 'We're like food processors,' he says. 'We take it all in and we spew out a cocktail.' Plus, he notes, last winter, when designers were creating their Fall 2014 collections, 'it was very cold.'

吳季剛2015年秋季新品秀上的一款皮草手袋。爲何世界各地這麼多的設計師在同一時間看中了這一概念？秋季新品中包含毛皮手袋的設計師吳季剛(Jason Wu)表示，這是因爲設計師都非常瞭解文化心理，而且關注的也是相同的消費傾向。他說，設計師就像食品加工者，他們加入所有原料，然後調製出一杯雞尾酒。他還說，另外，去年冬天設計師在設計2014年秋季新品時，天氣非常寒冷。

Intense competition in the design industry forces hundreds of designers to make their products stand out. As a result, they sometimes lunge at outlandish ideas. Right now, the more opulent, the better.

設計行業的激烈競爭促使數以百計的設計師力爭讓自己的產品脫潁而出。因此，他們有時會有一些非常奇特的想法。如今的時尚界是越奢華越好。

It seems everyone wants in on the trend, even if they don't use fur. Stella McCartney, who is ardently anti-fur, used faux-fur in a houndstooth shoulder bag currently selling at Saks for $1,395.

似乎每個人都想趕上這一潮流，即使他們平時並不用皮草。例如，堅決抵制皮草的斯泰拉(Stella McCartney)也買了一個綴有人造皮草的犬牙花紋單肩包，這個包目前在Saks售價1,395美元。

High retail prices and changing attitudes toward fur will keep some of these bags limited in number compared with other 'it' bags presented in collections. Some retailers are stepping away from fur fashions, leaving labels to sell them directly, which most do anyway. Net-a-porter, the Web retailer that is often first to leap on outlandish runway looks, won't have any of the fur bags and is moving to eliminate most fur from the collections it sells this fall. It will sell pelts such as shearling, according to a person familiar with the retailer's plans.

然而，高昂的零售價和人們對皮草態度的變化不定將限制皮草手袋的數量，使之無法與其他類型的手袋比肩。一些零售商並未積極迎合皮草潮流，推出皮草手袋的品牌需要自己直接銷售。據知情人士稱，經常搶先發布古怪走秀款的網絡零售商Net-a-porter不會擺出皮草手袋，而且正打算從今秋的產品展中撤下多數皮草，但羊毛等毛皮產品還是會賣的。

Vera Wang's cuddly black mink tote is listed as 'price upon request'- which is designer shorthand for 'come in and special-order it.' A spokeswoman confirms the bag wasn't produced for stores.

王薇薇(Vera Wang)設計的一款毛絨絨的黑色貂皮手袋被歸爲了“價格另洽”行列，意思就是設計師爲上門特別訂單趕製的。一位發言人證實，這款手袋不會用於零售店銷售。

J. Mendel, though, is selling four memorable styles-two clutches and two totes-of color-blocked broadtail, with prices starting at $4,900 for a clutch made of the baby lamb and calf skin. Donna Karan's long-haired goat bag, looking like an adorable Cousin It, is priced at $1,995 (it should come with a comb).

J. Mendel品牌推出了四款令人印象深刻的包包，手包和手提包各兩款。手提包材質用的是大塊顏色的闊尾羔羊皮。一款手包用羔羊皮和小牛皮製成，起始定價4,900美元。Donna Karan的長毛山羊手包可以視爲可愛版的Cousin It，定價1,995美元（其實應該配套出售一款梳子，梳理這麼長的毛）。

With the weather still toasty, Saks has an array of fur bags available, from Burberry's adoptable-looking mink shoulder bag ($2,295) to Valentino's mink shoulder bag ($5,395). For shoppers who don't want to commit to the full trend, Fendi has augmented its fall menagerie of fur handbags with accessories to hang from any bag or even your rearview mirror-all made of fur, of course. There are ornamental balls and little monster faces, but the best is a miniature caricature of Karl Lagerfeld, the label's longtime designer, with white fur for his famous hair.

儘管依然是烈日炎炎，但消費者已經可以從Saks買到皮草手袋了，例如博柏利(Burberry)的貂皮單肩包（2,295美元）、華倫天奴(Valentino)的貂皮單肩包（售價5,395美元）。爲吸引那些不想隨大流的消費者，芬迪(Fendi)爲其秋季皮草手包系列款式配備了各類掛飾，可以吊在任何手包甚至你的後視鏡上──當然所有的掛飾也都是皮草做成的。你可以選擇裝飾品小球，還可以買小怪獸面具，但最棒的當屬長期效力芬迪的設計師卡爾・拉格菲爾德(Karl Lagerfeld)縮小版雕像，白色皮毛充當着他那著名的白髮。