時裝設計新人成長艱難
Where are Milan’s new designers? The question is becoming More insistent with Italy’s famous old guard getting into their dotages. Giorgio Armani turned 80 this year. Miuccia Prada is 65. Donatella Versace is 59. Milan’s enfants terribles Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are 58 and 51, respectively.
米蘭的年輕設計師如今爲何難覓蹤影？隨着意大利各時尚大腕開始步入遲暮之年，這個問題已變得越發突出。喬治•阿瑪尼(Giorgio Armani)今年已80高齡，繆西婭•普拉達(Miuccia Prada)已65歲，唐娜泰拉•範思哲(Donatella Versace)已經59歲，就連米蘭離經叛道的天才組合多梅尼科•多爾切(Domenico Dolce)與斯特凡諾•加巴納(Stefano Gabbana)也已分別年滿58歲與51歲了。
Despite Milan fashion’s obvious appearance of modernity with its twice-yearly parade of new designs, insiders admit Italy’s fashion scene suffers from the same malady as the rest of Italy. A gerontocracy of designers who became world famous two if not three decades ago have left little space for young challengers.
儘管米蘭每年兩次新時裝發佈會仍明顯能展現高大上的一面，但權威人士承認：意大利的時裝業與意大利其它產業一樣後繼乏力。20、30年前蜚聲海內外、如今已步入暮年的設計師擠壓了年輕設計師的挑戰空間。But with Matteo Renzi, Italy’s 39-year-old prime minister, calling for a “scrapping” of Italy’s old elites to keep any international relevance, the country’s fashion industry is starting to show some – limited – signs of renewal.
但是，隨着39歲的總理倫蒂(Matteo Renzi)呼籲意大利年輕一代勇於打破舊精英的固有“藩籬”、以使意大利再能傲視國際時尚界後，該國的時尚業開始展露覆興跡象（儘管仍有限）。
Sicilian Marco de Vincenzo, who was spotted by the Fendi family and in whom French powerhouse LVMH bought a stake in February this year is the breakout star of a new generation.
來自西西里的馬可•德•文岑佐(Marco de Vincenzo)在這一代年輕設計師中脫穎而出，他被芬迪家族(Fendi family)慧眼識中，今年二月，法國時尚巨擘路易維登(LVMH)也參股了他的公司。Vogue Italia and Camera della Moda, the Italian fashion industry’s lobby, are also looking for ways to help young designers into the big time and have struck a deal with Italy’s biggest bank, UniCredit, to give designers the business training they need to even survive.
意大利版《Vogue》與意大利時尚商會(Camera della Moda)也在想方設法幫助年輕設計師勇攀高峯，他們與意大利規模最大的銀行集團裕信銀行(UniCredit)簽署協議，對年輕設計師的生存技能進行商業培訓。Paula Cademartori, a bag designer who caught the eyes of Italy’s style maven Anna Dello Russo, admits “there’s isn’t a lot of space for new designers” but says projects such as Vogue Talents, a competition promoting new designers, are helping to give some air to new arrivals.
得到意大利時尚名媛安娜•戴洛•羅素(Anna Dello Russo)青睞的手袋設計師保拉•凱德瑪託利(Paula Cademartori)坦承“年輕設計師的成長空間太過有限”，但又說Vogue Talents這類競賽項目有助於提攜年輕一代設計師最終脫穎而出。
