乘木遊艇暢遊印尼島 Exploring Indonesia's islands on Aman's new floating hotel

The sight of the Amandira bobbing away on turquoise waters is enough to make even the most committed landlubber want to slip aboard. The 52-metre yacht was launched earlier this year by Aman, the 30-strong hotel group known for immaculate design and formidable prices. It is inspired by the wooden phinisi that for centuries sailed through Indonesia’s tropical archipelagos carrying spices, fruits and other cargo.

親眼目睹Amandira遊艇在湛藍的大海中披波斬浪，即便是最執着的旱鴨子也忍不住想一試身手。這艘52米長的遊艇由阿曼公司(Aman)於今年初正式投入運營，阿曼公司是全球前30強酒店集團，以完美的設計以及令人咋舌的價格著稱於世。Amandira的設計靈感來自印尼特有的比尼西木船(Phinisi)，這種滿載着香料、水果以及其它貨物的木船幾個世紀以來一直穿梭往來於印尼的各個熱帶羣島。

The Amandira has been built from local hardwoods by craftsmen in Sulawesi and Surabaya, and tucked away in among the boat’s handcrafted timbers are three spacious double cabins and two smaller cabins with two bunk beds apiece. Up on the vast deck, there are cushions for lounging and a shaded area for when the sun is high. Indoors there is a dining table and a small library. There are 15 crew members — in attire more chic than any the passengers are likely to wear — who are there to prepare barbecues, picnics and freshly pressed juices, provide hot towels and diving or snorkelLing gear, and, above all, to navigate the ship safely through the reefs and islands.

Amandira由蘇拉威西島(Sulawesi)與印尼泗水市(Surabaya)本地出產的硬質木料手工打造而成，在手工打造的船體中，建造了三個寬敞雙人艙以及兩個各配置架子牀的單人艙。異常寬大的甲板上專門配備了閒躺專用軟墊和避躲烈日的遮陽處。艙內則安放了餐桌以及配備了一座小型圖書室。整個遊艇共配有15名船員（他們的穿着比任何遊客都要時髦），他們竭誠爲賓客準備烤肉、野餐與鮮榨果汁，提供熱毛巾及潛水潛泳設備。最重要的是，他們負責操控遊艇，使其安全穿梭於各個暗礁與島嶼間。

It’s not just that the boat itself is beautiful — it is where it sails and the adventures it offers that make it so beguiling. From April to September, when the seas and winds are at their calmest, the Amandira roams between the tiny island of Moyo and the Komodo National Park; from October to March, it explores the slightly wilder area to the north around the Raja Ampat archipe-lago. These seas are home to some of the richest and most diverse marine life in the world — about a third of the world’s aquatic species and more than 450 species of reef coral (compare that with the Caribbean, which boasts about 60).

並非只有遊艇的模樣美不勝收——它航行的海域以及提供的奇妙經歷最讓遊客心馳神往。每年四月至九月，是大海最爲風平浪靜的安瀾時刻，Amandira在袖珍小島莫約(Moyo)與科莫多國家公園(Komodo National Park)之間遊弋；從十月至次年三月，它則前往北部拉賈安帕羣島)(Raja Ampat archipe-lago)的寬闊海域“尋芳探幽”。這兒是全世界海洋生物資源最爲豐富、也是種類最爲多樣化的海域——是全球約三分之一的海洋物種以及450多種珊瑚（號稱擁有60種珊瑚的加勒比海完全不可同日而語）的棲息地。

These are the waters that drew the great 19th-century naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace, he of the Wallace Line, marking the point where Asian flora and fauna give way to Australasian species. The Amandira plies its way through a transitional zone known as Wallacea, where many of these species overlap. As far back as 1956, our more contemporary great naturalist David Attenborough also came here, to film his BBC documentary series Zoo Quest. Put simply, there are sights above and below the water that you won’t see anywhere else.

這片海域吸引了19世紀偉大的博物學家阿爾弗雷德丠萊士(Alfred Russel Wallace)，作爲華萊士線(Wallace Line)的提出者，他劃出了從東洋物種到澳洲物種(Australasian species)過渡的分界線。Amandira經常穿梭於這塊被稱爲Wallacea的物種過渡區域，來自東洋界與澳洲界的很多物種在此出現了交疊現象。早在1956年，當代著名博物學家大衛縠箂ⅶ(David Attenborough)也親臨此地拍攝BBC記錄片《動物探祕》系列(Zoo Quest)。一言以蔽之，諸位在此處看到的水上還是水下美景，可謂驚絕於世。

Earlier this month I spent five days aboard, sailing these magical seas and spotting wonderful creatures. Just lounging on the deck, we spent an hour marvelling at the antics of what seemed like a hundred dolphins following the boat. We had glimpses of the wobbegong shark and, up in the sky, we’d see sea eagles soaring, searching for prey.

不久前，我有幸乘此遊艇瀟灑了五天，穿行於這片美不勝收的海域，探祕奇妙生靈。休閒躺臥於甲板時，我們欣賞一路尾隨遊艇的100多頭海豚所做的種種古怪滑稽動作長達1個小時；還不時看見出沒的斑紋鬚鯊以及天空中翱翔的海雕，它們在四處搜尋獵物目標。

On our first evening aboard we landed at the small island of Satonda and took the small path to see Lake Motitoi, a seawater crater lake lined with stromatolites (a rare form of algal reef). As we left, the darkening sky began to fill with flying foxes leaving the island to find fruit to eat further afield.

登上游艇後第一個晚上，我們登上一座名叫Satonda的小島，並沿着小路前往Motitoi湖，這個灌滿海水的火山湖疊層石（一種稀有的藻礁）密佈。我們返回時，只見漸趨昏暗的天空中是黑壓壓一片去遠處島嶼覓食的果蝠。

On the island of Rinca, we trekked to see the famous Komodo dragon. Grey and seemingly mostly half-asleep, they can grow up to three metres long — but it isn’t until they flick out their extraordinarily mobile tongues in search of the scent of blood that they begin to resemble the terrifying creatures of myth. They are easy to see, lounging around the kitchen huts at the base of the island, yet our guide, armed merely with a forked stick, was sufficiently nervous to make sure that we kept well away. Why they can only be found on four islands — Komodo, Rinca, Gili Motang and Flores — nobody quite knows.

在Rinca島上，我們經過艱苦跋涉，前去觀賞著名的科莫多巨蜴。成年科莫多巨蜴呈現灰色，體型長達3米，多數時間一副昏昏欲睡的樣子——但它們不經意伸出異常靈巧的長舌探尋血腥味時，才酷似傳說中毛骨悚然的可怕動物。找到它們輕而易舉，因爲它們就在小島底處的簡易廚房四周閒轉；然而只帶了根叉棍的導遊卻如臨大敵，要求我們必須呆在遠離它們的安全區域。爲何科莫多巨蜴只生活在這四個島嶼（Komodo、Rinca、Gili Motang和Flores），原因至今仍不得而知。

Yet it was under water that I found by far the more magical world. I don’t dive, and neither did anybody else in our party. We could have learnt onboard, under the instruction of Benoit Martin-Laval, the cruise manager, but we didn’t need to. Instead, we spent long and happy hours snorkelling, marvelling at the coral reefs, eyeballing fish of strange and myriad hues. One morning, Benoit found us a site where vast manta rays tend to gather and we snorkelled in and out among them as if we, too, had become creatures of the sea. We kayaked and paddle-boarded, had picnics on tiny islands fringed with pink-tinged sand and, on our last evening, we ate barbecued lobster on another deserted island surrounded by trees festooned with lanterns.

然而，我覺得水下世界卻是迄今爲止最爲神奇的地方。我並沒有選擇潛水，旅遊團隊中也無人嘗試。大夥完全可以在遊船上接受經理伯努瓦氠丁-拉瓦爾(Benoit Martin-Laval)的傳授，但我們沒這個需求。相反，我們藉助通氣管在水下潛泳了很長時間，興致勃勃欣賞神奇美麗的珊瑚礁以及五顏六色、奇形怪狀的海魚。其中一個早上，伯努瓦給我們找到一處絕佳的賞魚處——這是巨型蝠鱝匯聚的地方，我們帶着呼吸管出沒於它們中間，彷彿自己也變成了海洋生靈。我們划着獨木舟、玩着衝浪板，在粉紅色沙灘的袖珍小島上野餐。整個旅程的最後一個晚上，我們在一座荒島上享用烤龍蝦，環繞小島的綠樹上掛滿了燈籠。

The joy of the Amandira is that you can go where you will, winds and seas permitting. It is designed to be taken over in its entirety so, unlike most of the other boats plying the same seas, you never share with strangers. And though that makes it expensive, if you can make up a group of 10 (the maximum the boat takes) and divide the cost, it doesn’t seem quite so bad. The package usually quoted is for five days but you can hire it for as long as you like.

乘坐Amandira的最大樂趣是：風浪不大的時候，可以隨心所欲地遊玩。Amandira如此設計，最適宜整船包租，因此與往來於同一片海域的其它遊船不一樣的是，船上並沒有互不相識的遊客。儘管整船包租價格不菲，但如果能湊夠10位遊客（最大的載客量），並且分攤費用，那麼還是十分划算。整個旅遊套餐的常規行程是5天，但遊客也可以隨心所欲租用。

What makes a perfect package is to do as I did: fly to Singapore, arriving early in the morning and connecting straight to Bali and thence to the Amanusa hotel, half an hour from the airport. I dined (deliciously) there and flew early the next morning to the island of Sumbawa.

理想的旅遊套餐就是參照本人的做法：乘飛機於凌晨時分抵達新加坡，從那兒再直飛印尼的巴厘島(Bali)，而後入住距機場半個小時車程的阿曼努沙酒店(Amanusa hotel)。在那兒吃完美味可口的早餐後，再搭乘早班飛機前往松巴哇島(Sumbawa)。

From there, it is a short boat trip to the small island of Moyo and to Amanwana, the Aman group’s tented camp, where there are hills to hike up, golden orioles in the trees, cool, green pools by a waterfall to swim and dive in and, always, skies of a Tiepolo blue and seas that range from palest turquoise to deep dark indigo. The Amandira then picks you up from Moyo and off you sail for five days of bliss.

從松巴哇島乘船前往Moyo小島以及阿曼集團的帳篷營地阿曼瓦那(Amanwana)，很快就能抵達。在Moyo島上，遊客可以爬山、欣賞密林中的金黃鸝，在瀑布旁的碧池中暢遊與潛水；俯仰之間，不是欣賞湛藍色的天空（顏色酷似意大利畫家提埃波羅(Tiepolo)筆下的作品），就是依次從蒼綠色到靛藍色的碧波大海。Amandira然後把諸位從Moyo島接上游船，開始爲期五天的夢幻之旅。

Details

詳情介紹

Lucia van der Post was a guest of Cazenove + Loyd () and Singapore Airlines (). An eight-night trip with Cazenove + Loyd, staying one night at the Amanusa in Bali, two at Amanwana and five aboard the Amandira, costs from 5,200 per person (based on a group of 10 people). Return flights from London would add about 600

露西婭娠斯特是Cazenove + Loyd旅行社（網址：）以及新加坡航空公司（Singapore Airlines，網址：）的客人。Cazenove + Loyd旅行社行程（歷時八個晚上）的最低報價是5200英鎊/人（前提是湊夠10人旅遊團隊），其中在巴厘島的安曼努沙酒店住一晚，在阿曼瓦那住兩晚，在Amandira遊艇上住5個晚上。倫敦始發的返程機票，每位遊客需另加600英鎊。