36小時玩轉斯德哥爾摩
If Stockholm residents seem particularly smug these days, it's for good reason. The Swedish capital has long ranked among the loveliest in Europe, with an inner-city beauty characterized by stately architecture and graceful waterways. But openings in outlying neighborhoods — galleries in the north, boutiques in the south, a craft brewery in the suburbs, art in the archipelago — are expanding the limits of the city worth exploring. Add to that Stockholm's exciting restaurant scene, born from the popular New Nordic food movement, and the hometown pride is perfectly understandable.
如果說近年來斯德哥爾摩人似乎過於洋洋自得，他們也有充分的理由。作爲瑞典的首都，斯德哥爾摩長期以來都在歐洲最可愛城市排行榜上名列前茅。市內非常美，特別是宏偉莊嚴的建築和優雅的水路。邊遠的社區又在紛紛擴展這座城市可資探索的邊界：北部的美術館、南部的精品店、城郊的手工啤酒廠及羣島上的藝術展。此外，斯德哥爾摩的餐飲風景線也激動人心，它們誕生於流行的新北歐美食運動，人們爲此油然生出的家鄉榮譽感，完全可以理解。Friday
週五1. Sip and Shop | 3 p.m.
1. 喝咖啡，購物 | 下午3點
Cafes abound in Stockholm, but none are as interesting as Snickarbacken 7. In a former stable down a dead-end lane, the multifaceted cafe features an adjoining concept store and revolving exhibitions from area artists. Sip a fresh-pressed juice — the apple with ginger and mint is spicy yet refreshing — and then browse the spacious shop in the rear, where vintage Balenciaga blazers hang beside Swedish labels like Tuss (soft children's T-shirts) and Stutterheim (supremely stylish raincoats). Among the ever-changing wares might be cute animal masks, antique Arne Jacobsen chairs or records from the independent Pet Sounds music shop.
斯德哥爾摩到處都是咖啡館，但誰也沒有Snickarbacken 7這樣有趣。這座多層的咖啡館坐落在一條死衚衕裏，由昔日的馬廄改建而成，亮點是旁邊的概念店和流轉不休的本地藝術家作品展。喝一杯新鮮壓榨的果汁吧，比如加了生薑與薄荷的蘋果汁，口感辛辣而提神。然後走進後面寬敞的服裝店內閒逛，經典的巴黎世家(Balenciaga)運動衣旁邊掛着瑞典名牌服裝，比如圖斯（Tuss，柔軟的兒童T恤）和斯塔特海姆（Stutterheim，極爲有型的雨衣）。在這日新月異的時裝王國裏，有可愛的動物面罩、古意盎然的阿納·雅克布森(Arne Jacobsen)椅子和來自獨立音樂店萌寵之聲(Pet Sounds)的唱片。
2. Gallery Hop | 4:30 p.m.
2. 遊覽畫廊 | 下午4:30With the sun still high in the sky, spend the afternoon hopping among art galleries northwest of the city center, an area rarely explored by visitors. Begin around the former industrial complex on Hudiksvallsgatan, where a cluster of cutting-edge galleries has taken root. The contemporary Christian Larsen gallery has recently shown new works from the hometown artist Charlotte Gyllenhammar; since opening in February, the nearby Elastic Gallery has featured a range of emerging artists. Then continue south to the new Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, a five-level structure with a gleaming brass exterior and galleries that host thought-provoking temporary exhibitions, like a recent show of haunting photographs from Astrid Kruse Jensen (admission, 100 Swedish kronor, about $15.50 at 6.4 kronor to the dollar).
豔陽仍然高照，不妨去市中心西北部的畫廊裏轉轉吧。這個區域很少有遊客。從哈迪克斯瓦司佳坦的老廠房開始吧，一片前衛的美術館已經在這裏紮根。當代主題的基督教拉森(Christian Larsen)美術館最近展示了本地藝術家夏洛特·吉倫海默(Charlotte Gyllenhammar)的作品；附近的彈性畫廊(Elastic Gallery)自從今年2月份開館以來，已經舉辦了一系列新生代藝術家主題作品展。探尋的腳步繼續向南，走進新開館的斯文哈里斯藝術博物館(Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum)，這座五層建築有着閃亮的黃銅外觀，畫廊裏的當代藝術品都耐人尋味，比如最近舉辦的阿斯特麗德·克魯斯·詹森(Astrid Kruse Jensen)攝影展（門票100瑞典克朗，約合15.50美元。1美元合6.4瑞典克朗）就令人久久難忘。
3. Ego Eating | 8 p.m.
3. 悠然自得的美餐 | 晚上8點Last year, two of Stockholm's top chefs, Daniel Rams and Tom Sjostedt, teamed up to open Lilla Ego, a small restaurant serving modern Swedish cuisine in residential Vasastan. The unusual name references a song by the popular Swedish rock band Kent, whose melancholy melodies fill the casual space. Daily specials are scribbled on paper and taped slapdash to the wall, but the artful plates are prepared with care. Recent offerings included fried rooster thigh with kohlrabi (235 kronor) and a spectacular reindeer steak with roasted hazelnuts and frozen butter (295 kronor).
去年，兩位斯德哥爾摩頂級大廚丹尼爾·拉姆斯(Daniel Rams)和湯姆·索思德(Tom Sjostedt)攜手建起了一家名爲“有點自我”(Lilla Ego)的小餐廳，爲瓦薩斯坦一帶的居民供應現代瑞典菜餚。這個罕見的店名本是一首歌，原唱是瑞典深受歡迎的搖滾樂隊肯特(Kent)，這片輕鬆休閒的空間總是迴盪着它憂傷的旋律。寫在紙上的每日特餐草草貼在牆上，但充滿藝術情懷的餐盤端上來時卻是小心翼翼的。最近供應的菜餚包括炸雞腿配甘藍（235克朗）、壯觀的馴鹿肉排搭配烤榛子和凍奶油（295克朗）。
4. North to South | 11 p.m.
4. 從北到南 | 夜晚11點Sprinkled with laid-back bars and unpretentious clubs, Sodermalm is the inner-city island with the best night life. Start on the north end of the island at Vanster, a discreet speakeasy beside the restaurant Haktet. The shabby-chic bar serves cocktails like Rocco's Valentine (bourbon, Campari, honey, lime and rosewater; 138 kronor), but only to those who can find their way Inside. Hint: look for an unmarked brown door and ring the buzzer; knowing that the bar's name means "left” also helps. Then continue to Skanstullsbron, the bridge over Sodermalm's southern tip. At midnight, the party will just be getting underway at Tradgarden, an open-air summertime club under the bridge where you can play Ping-Pong, sip beers on wooden risers and dance til dawn.
市內島嶼南島(Sodermalm)上有着城裏最美好的夜生活，慵懶的酒吧與低調的夜店星羅棋佈。從島嶼北端的左面酒吧(Vanster)開始吧，這個懷舊而別緻的半地下酒吧位於Haktet餐廳旁邊，供應雞尾酒，比如洛珂的情人（Rocco's Valentine，由波旁威士忌、金巴利苦酒、蜂蜜、萊姆酒和玫瑰水混合而成；138克朗），但首先，你要擦亮眼睛找到此地。提示：尋找一扇沒有標誌的棕色木門，按下門鈴；如果你知道酒吧的名字意爲“左面”，亦有幫助。下一站，繼續向前走到南島南端的斯堪斯達布朗橋。午夜時分，Tradgarden酒吧裏的派對剛剛開始，它是橋下一家露天的夏夜俱樂部，你可以打乒乓球，在木製的高臺上暢飲啤酒，或者跳舞跳到東方既白。
Saturday
週六5. Archipelago Art | 10:30 a.m.
5.羣島上的藝術展 | 上午10:30Most visitors never experience the bountiful nature that surrounds the city. But Artipelag, a new art hall amid 54 acres of fields and forests in the archipelago, is helping change that. Conceived by Bjorn Jakobson, the founder of BabyBjorn, this modern art complex opened in 2012 with genre-busting exhibitions in a gorgeous waterfront location that's only a 20-minute bus ride from the city center. One scenic approach to the artworks follows a wooden footpath along the water's edge, past mallards and moss-covered rocks. Inside the bright galleries, large picture windows frame the treetops outside, creating an apt milieu for the current exhibition of archipelago-inspired art, from fin-de-siècle paintings by Anders Zorn to contemporary depictions from Marcus Eek (through Sept. 28; 150 kronor).
多數遊客從來不曾體驗這座城市周邊豐饒的自然之美。但是，羣島上54英畝的田野和森林之中新建的展藝廳Artipelag正在改變這一點。這座現代藝術建築羣由BabyBjorn公司的創建者伯恩·雅各布森(Bjorn Jakobson)構思設計，2012年開業，致力於舉辦各種流派的展覽。它坐落於華美的水濱，距離市中心只有20分鐘的公交車程。有一條風景如畫的路通向這些藝術珍寶，沿着海邊的木頭步道一路走來，路邊會遇見野鴨和青苔覆蓋的岩石。明亮的畫廊裏展示着巨大的畫作，窗外就是參天大樹。恰如其分的自然環境呵護了當今以羣島爲靈感的藝術佳作，包括安德斯·左恩(Anders Zorn)的“世紀末”繪畫和馬庫斯·伊可(Marcus Eek)的當代畫作（從9月28日開始；門票150克朗）。在南島的約翰與奈斯龍咖啡廳喝一杯。
6. Fika Fun | 1:30 p.m.
6. 菲爾卡的樂趣 | 下午1:30
Most of the restaurants worth eating at aren't open for lunch on Saturdays. So instead embrace the tradition of fika, a sociable coffee break typically accompanied by something sweet to eat. This pillar of Swedish culture is best experienced at Johan & Nystrom, an eco-minded coffee shop on Sodermalm that has no shortage of nooks in which to enjoy a steaming mug of the daily brew. The baked goods are as carefully sourced as the fair-trade, single-origin beans: The fresh kardemummabullar (cardamom-flavored buns) are provided by Dessert & Choklad Stockholm, a local bakery that also supplied sweets for last year's Nobel Prize banquet.此地值得一去的餐館在週六大都是下午纔開門，所以請融入本地的菲爾卡風俗，即咖啡社交，一邊聊天，一邊喝咖啡吃甜點。這是瑞典文化的支柱，在約翰與耐斯特龍咖啡館(Johan & Nystrom)能獲得最好的體驗。這座崇尚生態的咖啡館位於南島，店內最不缺少的就是清幽的角落，快躲在裏面品嚐一杯當天釀造的新鮮熱咖啡吧。這家咖啡館在採購咖啡豆時注重公平貿易和單一產地，在採購糕點時他們也是同樣謹慎：新鮮的小豆蔻風味麪包由本地的斯德哥爾摩甜點與巧克力麪包屋(Dessert & Choklad Stockholm)供應，該面包屋曾爲去年的諾貝爾頒獎宴會提供甜食。
7. SoFo Shopping | 3 p.m.
7. 在SoFo購物 | 下午3點
Much of central Stockholm looks like a Photoshopped postcard, but the trendy Sodermalm neighborhood south of Folkungagatan — branded SoFo — is a refreshing exception. Explore the unpolished area via its creative boutiques, tucked among vintage stores and independent cafes. Start at the bookshop Konst-ig, filled with indie magazines and rare design and art tomes. Then head to the year-old boutique Hipp! to shop for colorful jewelry and printed trays designed by its owner (and graphic designer), Julia Nielsen. Make your final stop Parlans Konfektyr, a candy shop with a jazz-era style as irresistible as the caramels, made in the adjacent kitchen, in flavors like sea salt, cardamom and licorice.斯德哥爾摩市中心大部分都像PS過的明信片風景，但南島上佛克恩大街以南的社區（即著名的SoFo）卻是個令人耳目一新的例外。在這片粗樸的地方，去探尋路邊一家家古董商店、獨立咖啡廳及隱藏其間的創意精品店吧。從Konst-ig書店開始，店內擺滿了獨立電影流派的雜誌和稀有的設計與藝術書卷。然後直奔有一年曆史的精品店“新潮”(Hipp!)，去買一些由店主（兼平面設計師）茱莉亞·尼爾森(Julia Nielsen)設計的五彩首飾和彩印盤子。最後一站是Parlans Konfektyr糖果屋，它爵士年代的風格像焦糖一樣難以抗拒，美食由臨近的廚房製作，口味有海鹽、小豆蔻和甘草等。
8. Chicken Dinner | 7 p.m.
8.雞肉美餐 | 傍晚7點
The chefs Jacob Holmstrom and Anton Bjuhr earned their first Michelin star last year for their elegant New Nordic restaurant, Gastrologik. But it's next door at the casual annex Speceriet where locals regularly queue for a seat at one of three communal tables. A shared kitchen means that both restaurants embrace a seasonal cooking philosophy and scrupulously sourced local products, but Speceriet's simpler preparations (and à la carte menus) mean prices are more budget-friendly. One outstanding mainstay is the rotisserie-grilled chicken — maybe the most succulent you'll ever taste — served with a green salad, mayonnaise and lemon (165 kronor).去年，優雅華麗的新北歐餐廳“美食主義”(Gastrologik)的大廚雅各布·霍姆斯壯(Jacob Holmstrom)和安童·布賈爾(Anton Bjuhr)贏得了他們第一顆米其林之星。然而它還有一家附屬的Speceriet餐廳，風格輕鬆休閒，本地人常常在門外排隊等座，希望在店內的三座公用餐桌前大快朵頤。兩家餐廳共用同一間廚房，這意味着它們秉持相同的應季烹飪哲學和嚴格的本地農產品採購策略，但是Speceriet配置簡單（可以照單點菜），價格也更友善。招牌菜是鐵架烤雞肉——它也許是您嘗過的最美味多汁的雞肉，與綠色的沙拉、蛋黃醬和檸檬一起爲您奉上（165克朗）。
9. Complex Choices | 10 p.m.9. 泡吧之夜 | 晚上10點
The islet of Gamla Stan is better known for quaint cobblestone streets than quality places to drink and eat. But that began to change last year when the two-Michelin-starred chef Bjorn Frantzén opened an interconnected complex with a decadent gastro pub (called the Flying Elk) and three tipple-specific bars on one block. Start the night at Corner Club, the stylish street-level cocktail bar serving concoctions like the Northern Navy (Swedish Herno gin, lime and grapefruit cordial; 129 kronor). Then sneak downstairs to Alg Hjartat, a semi-secret underground beer hall serving numerous Scandinavian craft beers and bar snacks such as oozy cheese-stuffed gougères drizzled with honey. End the night at Gaston, an intimate wine bar where the young sommeliers are as friendly as they are knowledgeable about the eclectic daily offerings.老城區(Gamla Stan)小島最爲知名的是古色古香的卵石街道，其次纔是優質的餐飲場所。但在去年，情況開始改變：米其林二星級大廚伯恩·弗蘭澤恩(Bjorn Frantzén)建起了一片互相連通的餐飲社區，包括一家非常棒的餐吧（名爲飛翔的麋鹿，Flying Elk）和三座酒吧。我們的暢飲之夜從角落俱樂部(Corner Club)開始，這座時尚的雞尾酒吧位於臨街一層，供應調和酒水，比如北歐海軍（瑞典的赫諾杜鬆酒、萊姆酒和葡萄果甜酒；129克朗）。然後溜到樓下的Alg Hjartat酒吧，這是一座半祕密的地下啤酒吧，供應各種斯堪的納維亞手工啤酒和酒吧零食，比如軟爛的奶酪泡芙，表面塗有蜂蜜。讓夜晚結束於加斯頓酒吧(Gaston)，這是一座私密的紅酒吧，年輕的調酒師友好而淵博，對不拘一格的每日供應都瞭如指掌。
Sunday
週日
10. Morning Market | 11 a.m.10.早市 | 上午11點
The formerly rough neighborhood of Hornstull, on the western edge of Sodermalm, boasts new restaurants and cafes, a sparkling shopping complex, and two newly constructed plazas that anchor the revitalized area. The latest draw, which debuted in 2013, is Hornstulls Marknad, a weekly summertime market that stretches along a waterfront promenade. Stalls sell everything from vintage Acne boots to hand-embroidered tote bags, but don't leave without also visiting the food vendors for picnic supplies — a fresh loaf of sourdough, tangy Vasterbotten cheese and some Swedish strawberries should do the trick.往日粗陋的霍恩斯達爾(Hornstull)社區位於南島西端，而今卻有許多嶄新的餐廳和咖啡廳、一座華麗的購物中心和兩座新建的廣場，爲這片復興之地奠定了地位。2013年最新的吸引力是霍恩斯達爾市場，即每週一次的夏季集市，沿着水濱的散步長廊徐徐展開。攤位上應有盡有，比如古典的阿克尼皮靴和手工刺繡的大手提袋。請不要急着離開，去野餐用品市場，買些新鮮的酵母、氣味濃烈的瓦斯德波頓奶酪和瑞典草莓，應該足夠一頓野餐了。
11. Picturesque Picnic | 12:30 p.m.11. 風景如畫的野餐 | 中午12:30
The central, two-mile-long island of Djurgarden has vast expanses of forests and verdant meadows where you'll encounter a grazing bull before a speeding Volvo. To get there quickly, rent a bike from Sjocafeet (80 kronor per hour), and ride east along the gravel paths hugging the northern shore. Pedal until you find the perfect patch of grass, then break out the picnic.市中心2英里長的德傑加登島(Djurgarden)上有着遼闊的森林和青翠的草地，你邂逅了一頭正在吃草的牛，又望見飛馳的沃爾沃汽車。爲了更快到達這裏，可以從斯加卡非特(Sjocafeet)租一輛自行車（每小時80克朗）。沿着北海岸邊的碎石路一路向東騎行，看到一片完美的草地就停下來，開始野餐。
12. Pier to Beer | 3 p.m.
12. 從碼頭到啤酒 | 下午3點
From the Djurgarden pier, hop on the ferry bound for the suburb of Hammarby Sjostad (50 kronor). After a 20-minute ride with views of the receding city, alight at Lumabryggan, the dock right outside Nya Carnegiebryggeriet, a new microbrewery in an old factory, born from a partnership between Brooklyn Brewery and Carlsberg. In April, the brewery opened its much-anticipated restaurant and bar there. Find a seat on the sunny waterfront terrace and savor a glass of Lumen in Tenebris, a spicy saison available only at the brewery.從德傑加登碼頭跳上駛向郊區哈默比斯加斯塔德(Hammarby Sjostad)的渡船（50克朗）。坐在船上看着城市的風景不斷後退，大約20分鐘後在盧瑪布瑞嘉(Lumabryggan)碼頭棄舟登岸。旁邊就是新建的小型啤酒廠尼亞卡尼吉布瑞格瑞特(Nya Carnegiebryggeriet)，它位於舊廠區內，由布魯克林釀酒廠和嘉士伯合作建造而成。4月，衆人翹首以待的啤酒廠餐廳和酒吧開業了。在陽光明媚的水濱露臺上找個座位，享受一杯特耐布利斯的魯門(Lumen in Tenebris)，這種辛辣的酒只有在這座啤酒廠才能嚐到。
