女王的衣櫥 白金漢宮展出女王服裝
Her bright suits and bold hats put the Duchess of Cambridge’s nude court shoes in the shade. The Queen may have turned 90, but there is little doubt she is still the ultimate style icon, as a new exhibition at Buckingham Palace from tomorrow reveals.
女王亮眼的套裝和大膽出挑的帽子讓凱特王妃那雙裸色高跟鞋黯然失色。女王已經九十，但毫無疑問她仍是永不過時的時尚偶像。這一點可以在七月二十二日起在白金漢宮舉辦的一場女王服裝展覽中展現出來。
Her Majesty wears jewel-coloured outfits to ensure she can be seen by her subjects - and even uses them as a tool of diplomacy. Who knew that she dresses to echo the flag of the country she is visiting so as to flatter her hosts, and sometimes even has their national emblem sewn into them.
爲了讓她的國民能清楚地看到她，女王一直身穿寶石色的套裝，甚至還將這些套裝作爲一種外交工具。爲了對接待她的國家表示友好，她會穿與那個國家國旗顏色一樣的套裝，甚至有時會將那個國家的國徽縫在衣服上。
Fashioning A Reign: 90 Years Of Style From The Queen’s Wardrobe shows off almost 80 of her outfits and 62 of her iconic hats. Here, we take a look at a glorious selection...
“造就一個朝代：女王衣櫥時尚九十年”展示了近80套套裝及62頂標誌性的帽子。接下來，我們來看看其中的幾套精選服裝。
THE ONE-SHOULDERED DRESS
露肩禮服
Made from duchesse satin, lace, sequins, diamante and beads, this asymmetric crinoline-skirted gown of pale yellow and turquoise - made by Sir Norman Hartnell, her favourite couturier of the time - is a perfect example of the Queen’s Fifties fashions.
這件淺黃與寶綠色相襯的露肩膨鼓裙禮服是諾曼•哈特內爾設計並完成的，用全絲硬緞、花邊、珠片、鑲鑽、及綠松石製成。哈特內爾是女王當時最欣賞的設計師。這件禮服是上世紀五十年代女王時尚最完美的代表。
Worn on a state visit to the Netherlands in 1958, it features a one-shouldered bodice, the line of which is continued by a gathered panel of satin across the skirt.
女王身穿此禮服於1958年出訪荷蘭。禮服的特點是其露肩的連衣裙上身，全絲硬緞的鑲片將肩部線條延續到整條裙子上。
The dress is appliqued with tape lace forming stylised floral motifs and is richly embroidered with heavy beading.
裙子上還飾有帶有風格化的花朵圖案的長條蕾絲並且鑲滿了珠子。
This, says the Royal Collection, is another perfect example of the Queen’s unique championing of British couture.
英國皇家收藏信託表示，這件禮服也完美地展現了女王對英國女士時裝的支持。
THE INVESTITURE OUTFIT
授權儀式服裝
An ensemble that bears all the hallmarks of Sixties fashion: the princess-line coat hides a tunic as well as an underdress.
這是一套具備了所有六十年代時尚特點的服裝：公主線外套遮蓋住了女士短上衣和襯裙。
Made in a striking pale primrose yellow, the silk outfit also includes pearls, bugle beads and embroidery on the cuffs, collar and hem.
這件淡黃色的絲綢外套的袖口、衣領和下襬處縫有珍珠和玻璃小珠，並帶有刺繡。
The most interesting thing about it, however, is the matching hat made by a favourite milliner of the time, Simone Mirman.
然而，最有趣的還數與之相配的帽子是由當時最受歡迎的女帽設計師西蒙娜•米爾曼製作的。
Her Majesty took inspiration from the medieval age, which suited the surroundings of Caernarvon Castle, where the Queen was investing her son and heir, Prince Charles, as Prince of Wales in July 1969.
她的靈感來源於中世紀。1969年7月，女王在卡那封城堡授予她的兒子即繼承人查爾斯王子以威爾士親王的頭銜。她的靈感與卡那封城堡的環境很相配。
The section at the back of the hat represents a ‘caul’, a form of head-dress covering the hair and hung down over the neck.
帽子後面部分採用了“髮網”這一形式，即一種覆蓋頭髮並自然垂下至頸部的髮飾。
‘The philosophy behind the design is that the Queen would largely be seen from behind as she placed the coronet on the prince’s head, so having good design from the back was just as important as the outfit looking successful from the front,’ says exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
展覽負責人卡羅琳•德•吉託說：“這樣設計是因爲當女王將小冠冕授予王子時，大部分時間大家只能看到她的背影，所以帽子從後面看起來好看和服裝從前面看起來完美一樣重要。”
THE OFFICIAL PORTRAIT GOWN
官方肖像照禮服
With its crinoline-style skirt, nipped-in waist and sweetheart neckline, this gown - a highlight of the exhibition - is a perfect example of the Queen’s style in the Fifties.
這件有裙撐，腰部收緊，雞心領的禮服是此次展覽最精彩的部分。它是女王五十年代時尚的完美展示。
Made by Sir Norman Hartnell, the Queen wore it in 1956 for a series of official portraits taken by Baron Studios.
在由男爵工作室於1956年拍攝的一系列官方肖像照中，女王就穿了這件哈特內爾設計的禮服。
It was fashioned from oyster-coloured duchesse satin and gold lamé, embellished with diamante, pearls, sequins and beads in tones of gold and silver.
它用牡蠣色的全絲硬緞和金銀錦緞製成，裝飾了深淺不同的金銀色鑲鑽、珍珠、亮片和小珠子。
‘This is about beauty, about the best of British, about elegance,’ says Caroline de Guitaut. ‘It is another superb example of British couture, which the Queen champions.’
吉託認爲“這件衣服代表了美，代表了英國最好的一面，代表了優雅，是女王所支持的英國女士服裝的又一優秀範例。”
GOWN FIT FOR A HISTORIC VISIT
歷史性訪問場合禮服
Designed by Savile Row’s Hardy Amies, the Queen first wore this turquoise dress in 1965 when she became the first British head of state to visit Germany after World War II. It is made from organza silk, sequins, silver thread, beads and pearls and was worn to an official state banquet.
薩維爾街的哈迪•埃米斯設計了這件禮服。1965年，女王出訪德國時首次穿了這套藍綠色的衣服。當時女王是首位二戰後出訪德國的英國首腦。這件衣服的材質有歐根紗、閃光裝飾片、銀線、珠子和珍珠。女王穿着這件禮服參加了國宴。
The ornate embroidery over the bodice was inspired by the Rococo interiors of the palaces at Schloss Bruhl, which Amies researched prior to the Queen’s visit.
禮服上半身的華麗刺繡的靈感來源於德國布魯爾城堡內部洛可可風格的室內設計。埃米斯在女王出訪前特意做了一番研究。
Her Majesty loved the dress so much so that (with her usual eye for economy), she wore it again for an official portrait by Cecil Beaton in the White Drawing Room at Buckingham Palace in 1968.
女王十分喜愛這件裙子，再加上她不鋪張浪費的觀念，1968年在白金漢宮白色會客廳由塞西爾•比頓幫她拍攝官方肖像照時，她再一次穿上了這件衣服。
THE QUEEN’S WEDDING DRESS
女王的結婚禮服
When commissioned to design Princess Elizabeth’s 1947 wedding dress, Sir Norman Hartnell set out to produce ‘the most beautiful dress I had made so far’. His magnificent creation is in ivory silk, decorated with crystals and 10,000 seed pearls.
當哈特內爾被任命設計1947年伊麗莎白公主的結婚禮服時，他就開始着手做這件“有史以來做過最漂亮的裙子”。這件華麗的設計採用了乳白色的絲綢，並用水晶和一萬粒珍珠點綴。
The accompanying shoes are tiny. Her shoe size has never been officially revealed, but is believed to be a two-and-a-half to three.
配套的鞋子很小。女王的鞋碼從未正式公佈過，但一般認爲是英碼2.5碼-3碼左右。
THE CORONATION DRESS
加冕儀式服裝
The Queen’s 1953 Normal Hartnell-designed Coronation dress is regarded as a tour de force of British design.
這件由哈特內爾設計，女王1953年登基加冕時所穿的禮服被認爲是英國設計的巔峯之作。
The duchesse satin gown, which took eight months to design and create, features national and Commonwealth floral emblems in gold and silver thread, encrusted with seed pearls, sequins and crystals. It had to be reinforced to support the weight of the embroidery. Unbeknown to the Queen, Hartnell added a four-leaf shamrock on the left of the skirt for luck, and was delighted to see her hand brush it as she walked into Westminster Abbey.
這件全絲硬緞的禮服花費了八個月的時間來設計並且製作，用金銀絲線繡上了英國和英聯邦的代表花朵，外面裝飾有珍珠、亮片和水晶。爲了能夠撐起外面這麼多的裝飾，哈特內爾還加固了這件衣服。女王不知情的情況下，哈特內爾在裙子左側加了一株四葉草，以求幸運之神眷顧女王。而且令他高興的是，女王在走入威斯敏斯特教堂時，擺動的手拂過了這株幸運草。
‘The Queen wanted a dress that would stand up to the occasion - it was the first coronation fully televised - and the dress she chose was the eighth of nine he sketched. It is timeless,’ said exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut.
吉託說：“女王想要一件能鎮得住場面的禮服，畢竟這是第一次全程直播的加冕儀式。女王在哈特內爾的九張手稿中選擇了第八件。它是永恆的。”
THE QUEEN’S JUBILEE STYLE
週年慶典服裝
One section of the exhibition is devoted to an example of the Queen’s style from each decade of her life - and this green Hartnell silk dress is typical of the Seventies.
展覽有一部分是每十年女王穿衣風格的展示。這件哈特內爾設計的綠色絲綢連衣裙是典型的七十年代風格。
Along with a matching silk and straw Simone Mirman hat, it was worn by Queen on several occasions during her Silver Jubilee tour in 1977, when she travelled the length and breadth of the United Kingdom before heading overseas.
1977年迎來了女王的二十五週年紀念之旅。在她出訪海外前，她遊遍了整個英國。在這期間，她多次穿着這件衣服，同時佩戴了米爾曼設計的絲綢草帽。
The soft silhouette, bow-tie neck and floral print silk are all hallmarks of Seventies design.
柔和的線條、蝶形領結、花朵圖案的絲綢都是七十年代設計的標誌。
‘There is a strong print, and the dress is made of lightweight silk for the sake of practicality,’ observes the curator of the exhibition..
展覽負責人說：“出於實用考慮，裙子使用了輕薄的絲綢，還配上了濃烈的印花。”
THAT OLYMPIC DRESS
奧運禮服
Among the most globally recognisable outfits on show is the dress worn by the Queen at the London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony.
女王在2012年倫敦奧運會開幕式上穿的衣服也在展覽之列。這套衣服全球聞名。
The gown was designed by the Queen’s senior dresser, Angela Kelly, and made from silk in a peachy-pink colour, embellished with lace, sequins and beads, with matching feather fascinator.
這件禮服由女王的資深造型師安吉拉•凱莉設計，用桃粉色的絲綢做成，加上蕾絲，亮片和珠子的裝飾，並且搭配羽毛邊飾。
Caroline de Guitaut says: ‘The philosophy behind the design was to have a colour that wouldn’t in any way be representative of any of the countries participating in the Games and also to have striking, strong design lines, so the illusion of the Queen supposedly jumping [out of a plane at the ceremony] wouldn’t be lost.’
吉託說道：“使用桃粉色是因爲需要一個不代表任何參賽國家的顏色。這件衣服還需要擁有突出、強烈的線條，這樣當女王的替身從飛機上跳下時纔夠顯眼。”
