歐洲古城行 窮遊奢遊都能行(二)
Lisbon
里斯本
By SETH SHERWOOD
作者：SETH SHERWOOD
It’s not quite the razor’s edge, but a walk along Rua da Misericórdia in Lisbon is a walk on the slim frontier that separates Bairro Alto and Chiado, two very different worlds in the heart of the Portuguese capital.
這裏並不是什麼刀鋒，但是沿着里斯本的仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)漫步，的確是行走在一條將上城區(Bairro Alto)與希亞多(Chiado)區隔開來的狹長邊界上，將葡萄牙首都的中心地帶分割成兩個截然不同的世界。
To the west, bohemian Bairro Alto is the graffiti-sprayed warren of vintage stores, hole-in-the wall restaurants, dive bars and live-music venues, where noisy throngs fill the narrow streets until the wee hours.
往西走，住滿波西米亞人的上城區，是一處噴滿塗鴉的擁擠街區，到處都是些老式商店、簡陋飯館、廉價酒吧和現場音樂表演場地，狹窄的街道里擠滿了嘈雜的人羣，直到凌晨時分。
Free to enter, Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa plunges you into a gloriously faded 16th-century mansion whose maze of aristocratic rooms brim with sweeping staircases, huge fireplaces, panels of blue-painted azulejo tiles, and intricately carved plaster ceilings in varying states of dilapidation. These haunted spaces serve as galleries for exhibitions and site-specific creations by a rotating roster of international contemporary artists that has included the Cameroonian painter Barthélémy Toguo, the Albanian multimedia provocateur Adrian Paci and Portugal’s own tree-branch installation specialist, Gabriela Albergaria.
入場免費的藝術中心Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa，將你帶入一棟已壯麗褪色的16世紀豪宅，一間間充滿貴族氣派的房間組成的迷宮中，隨處可見弧形的樓梯、巨大的壁爐、白底藍花的瓷磚，以及精雕細刻但破損程度不一的石膏制天花板。這些充滿靈異氣息的空間，被一批名單不斷變化的國際當代藝術家們用作展覽和現場創作的地方，包括喀麥隆畫家巴特勒米·託古奧(Barthélémy Toguo)、阿爾巴尼亞多媒體藝術家阿德里安·巴契(Adrian Paci)和葡萄牙樹枝裝置藝術家加布裏埃拉·阿爾貝加里亞(Gabriela Albergaria)在內。
Short on physical comfort but brimming with traditional Portuguese comfort food, Antigo 1° de Maio has drawn generations of discerning Lisbonfolk to its pocket-size room of tiled walls, checkered tablecloths and stiff wooden chairs. The portions are copious from beginning to end, starting with appetizers like escargot or melon with cured ham, moving on to the likes of grilled pork tenderloin and roasted sardines, before finishing in a wave of sweets that includes egg pudding and mango mousse. A three-course meal for two is about 40 euros.
Antigo 1° de Maio餐廳雖然在就餐環境上差了一些，但是供應各種傳統的葡萄牙安慰食物，吸引着一代又一代挑剔的里斯本人走進它那僅有口袋般大小，由瓷磚牆面、方格桌布和硬木椅構成的屋子裏。這裏的食物份量自始至終都十分豐盛，先是以法國蝸牛或冬瓜配醃火腿開胃，接着是烤裏脊和烤沙丁魚之類，最後則以一組包括雞蛋布丁和芒果慕斯在內的甜點告終。雙人份的三道菜午餐，價格約爲40歐元。
For a digestive, try a cup of ginja (4 euros), a Portuguese cherry liqueur, in the equally small, rustic and jam-packed confines of Tasca do Chico. Then get out your handkerchief. The bar is a haven of Fado, Portugal’s melancholy seafaring folk music, and stars like Raquel Tavares and Mariza have been known to stop by incognito for impromptu performances. Better still, there’s no cover.
爲了幫助消化，不妨到Tasca do Chico那同樣狹小、樸素和擁擠的空間內，來一杯櫻桃酒(ginja)（4歐元），一種葡萄牙出產的櫻桃味利口酒。然後就掏出你的手帕吧。這間酒吧是欣賞葡萄牙悱惻動人的海上民謠——法朵(Fado)的最佳去處，據說拉奎爾·塔瓦雷斯(Raquel Tavares)、瑪瑞莎(Mariza)等明星均曾匿名在這裏即興演出過。不過更妙的是，這裏沒有任何曲目是翻唱的。
The extra money will be useful in Chiado, east of Rua da Misericórdia, which beckons with fashion boutiques, design emporiums, centuries-old churches, historic theaters and the city’s top gastronomic palace.
其餘的預算在仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)東邊的希亞多(Chiado)會大有用處，這裏的時裝精品店、設計商場、古老教堂、歷史悠久的劇院和城市裏的頂級美食殿堂均在召喚着你。
Keen to eat from a platter decorated with half-unicorn men and zebra-bodied women cavorting in a garden of exotic butterflies and dragonflies? The boutique of Vista Alegre — a Portuguese manufacturer of high-end porcelain, ceramics and crystal since the 19th century — showcases a line of dinnerware decorated by the French fashion designer Christian Lacroix. Mythical creatures and other exotic fauna (and flora) animate the series, from dessert plates (29 euros) to teapots (180 euros).
想要從飾有獨角獸人與雌性斑馬人在滿園異國情調的蝴蝶與蜻蜓環繞下嬉戲圖案的淺盤中品嚐美食嗎？創建於19世紀的葡萄牙高檔陶瓷水晶製品製造商Vista Alegre所出產的精品，展示了一系列由法國時裝設計師克里斯汀·拉克魯瓦(Christian Lacroix)負責裝飾的餐具。無論是甜點盤（29歐元）還是茶壺（180歐元），神話生物及其他異域動（植）物的圖案均令這些瓷器栩栩如生。
Or let Belcanto serve you. The decades-old institution was reopened in 2012 by the Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez and already has two Michelin stars, the only restaurant in Lisbon with that honor. Centered on nouveau Portuguese cuisine, the à la carte menu might feature suckling pig with orange and potatoes, beef loin with bone marrow and garlic purée, or sea bass with seaweed and bivalves. Tasting menus are available for 125 and 145 euros.
或者讓自己享受一下Belcanto的服務。這間擁有數十年曆史的機構，由葡萄牙名廚何塞·阿維列茲(José Avillez)在2012年重新開張，現已擁有米其林兩星級評級，是里斯本唯一享有這一榮譽的餐廳。以新式葡萄牙料理爲核心，單品菜單的內容可能有乳豬配柳橙馬鈴薯，牛裏脊配骨髓蒜蓉醬，或是鱸魚配海草和貝類。這裏提供的特選套餐分爲125歐元和145歐元兩種。
For a recap and a nightcap, survey the glowing city from the top-floor terrace bar of Hotel do Chiado, which was designed in part by the Pritzker Prize-winning Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. With a port-wine mojito (11 euros) or frothy Chiado Lovers cocktail (vodka, coconut cream, cocoa cream and hot sauce, 10 euros) in hand, you can spot the battlements of the hilltop Castle of Jorge, the Tagus River flowing toward the Atlantic, and the rest of Lisbon: dirt-cheap, gold-plated and beyond.
作爲一天的告終，也爲了睡前酒，我從奇亞多酒店(Hotel do Chiado)的頂樓露臺酒吧中俯瞰着這座流光溢彩的城市，其中有部分正是葡萄牙建築師、普立茲大獎(Pritzker)得主阿爾瓦羅·西扎·維埃拉(Alvaro Siza Vieira)的設計成果。端起一杯波特酒莫吉托（11歐元）或多泡的希亞多戀人(Chiado Lovers)雞尾酒（伏特加、椰漿、可可奶油和辣椒醬調製，10歐元），你可以端詳着山頂上的聖喬治城堡(Castle of Jorge)的城垛，流向大西洋方向的塔霍河(Tagus River)，還有里斯本其餘的一切：親民、鍍金以及超越了這些的一切。
Copenhagen
哥本哈根
By LISA ABEND
作者：LISA ABEND
Not long ago, Copenhagen was a culinary wasteland of pickled herring and gloppy salads on rye bread. That began to change in 2003, when the restaurant Noma introduced a cuisine that made creative use of the Nordic region’s edible landscape, and transformed the Danish capital into the objective of a culinary pilgrimage.
就在不久之前，哥本哈根在美食方面還是一處蠻荒之地，只有鹽漬鯡魚和抹有黏糊沙拉的黑麥麪包。這一切在2003年開始有了變化，Noma餐廳推出了一道創意料理，使用了北歐地區的特有食材，並將這座丹麥的首都轉變成了一處美食聖地。
It wasn’t long before some of those who worked under René Redzepi branched out on their own — Christian Puglisi, a former sous chef, for instance, just celebrated his restaurant Relae’s fifth birthday. Now, while Mr. Redzepi is taking Noma in new directions — including reopening his restaurant as an urban farm — those who trained under him are no longer simply riffing on Nordic themes, but expanding or even discarding the New Nordic label altogether. Best of all, they’re doing so at all price levels.
沒過多久，那些曾在雷內·雷哲華(René Redzepi)手下工作過的人員，紛紛各自開拓出了自己的事業——比如當年的副廚師長克里斯汀·普利西(Christian Puglisi)，剛剛爲他的餐廳Relae慶祝完五歲生日。如今，雷哲華先生正在將Noma帶往新的方向，包括以城市農場的形式重開這間餐廳，那些曾在他手下受訓的廚師，也不再單純地複製北歐風格的料理，而是拓展乃至整個拋棄掉“新式北歐”這一標籤。最讚的是，他們的這種做法在不同級別的價位領域均有涉及。
On the expensive side are Amass and Studio. Graffiti runs along a concrete wall in Amass’s dining room, a clue that the chef, Matt Orlando, does not adhere entirely to the Nordic playbook. Although the restrained artistry of his dishes — they often look as if they were recovered from some extraordinarily beautiful forest floor — reflects the influence of his stint as head chef at Noma, the flavors here, in, say, St. John’s wort leaves stuffed with a creamy pea purée, are less acidic than the typical Nordic ones.
若想品嚐昂貴的料理，可以選擇Amass和Studio。Amass餐室的水泥牆上塗鴉遍佈，似乎昭示着餐廳大廚馬特·奧蘭多(Matt Orlando)不會完全拘泥於傳統的北歐料理。雖然他所做的料理呈現出的美感十分有限，常常看上去像是從某塊極爲美麗的林地中回收來的一樣，這也跟他在Noma擔任主廚時的節儉習慣有關，但是Amass這裏的口味，比如說貫葉連翹葉卷奶油豌豆泥，就沒有典型的北歐做法那麼酸。
That makes sense: Mr. Orlando is from California, which may explain his restaurant’s laid-back vibe. Dinner often ends with patrons gathered outside around a bonfire. Tasting menu starts at 595 kroner (about $93, at 6.40 Danish kroner to the dollar).
這倒也不奇怪：奧蘭多先生本人來自美國的加利福尼亞州，這或許可以解釋他的餐廳裏爲何會有如此悠閒的氛圍。晚餐通常會以老顧客們齊聚到外面圍在篝火四周告終。特選套餐售價595克朗起（按1美元兌6.40丹麥克朗計算，約合93美元）。
There are no bonfires at Studio, which is all about refinement. Located in an old customs house, its sleek dining room juts out over Copenhagen’s harbor. At the helm is Torsten Vildgaard, who worked for many years as Noma’s research chef, developing many of the restaurant’s dishes. On his own, he’s allowed some of his French proclivities to slip into lovely dishes strewn with Nordic-style flowers and foraged herbs. A small heap of shaved truffles tops a perfectly poached quail egg, served wittily in a carton of untouched ones; brown butter adds caramelized flavors to what may be the world’s best monkfish. Tasting menu for dinner starts at 900 kroner, though there is a lunch menu for 450.
Studio裏沒有篝火，而是主打一種精緻的氛圍。這間時尚的餐廳建在一座古老的海關大廈裏，就懸在哥本哈根的海港上方。掌舵的是託斯騰·維爾德高(Torsten Vildgaard)，他曾在Noma做了很多年的研發廚師，Noma有很多菜式都是他開發的。在他自己的餐廳裏，他則將自己身爲法國人的一些脾性引入其中，用充滿北歐風格的花卉和食用藥草，創造出一道道的可愛料理。將一小堆去柄松露堆在一隻全熟的水煮鵪鶉蛋上，然後俏皮地夾在一盒原封未動的松露中間上桌；焦化黃油爲大概算是世界上最棒的安康魚添加了幾分焦糖的味道。特選套餐中的晚餐售價900克朗起，午餐售價450克朗起。
On the affordable end of the scale is Hija de Sánchez. Passers-by at the Torvehallerne food market often marvel at the hand-cranked machine that turns out perfect tortillas at this stand. There is reason for them to marvel even more: Until recently, Rosio Sánchez was Noma’s pastry chef. Now she has opened the kind of place dear to her Mexican-American heart: a taquería. But these are hardly ordinary tacos: The sweetly savory mole sauce gets its depth from some 28 ingredients, the queso fresco is handmade from Danish milk, and those astonishingly good tortillas are made of Oaxacan corn that Ms. Sánchez mills herself. Three-taco combo plate, 100 kroner.
若要尋求價格實惠的餐廳，那就是Hija de Sánchez了。Torvehallerne食品市場裏的路人，常常驚歎於能夠現場製作出完美玉米餅的手搖機。其實還有一點能夠讓他們更爲驚歎：直到不久前，羅西奧·桑切斯(Rosio Sánchez)還是Noma的糕點師。如今她則自己開了一間更受她那顆墨西哥裔美籍心珍視的地方——一間玉米餅店。但是這些可不是什麼普通的玉米餅：甜香的巧克力辣椒醬(mole sauce)所擁有的獨特口感來自28種原料，鮮奶酪(queso fresco)是用丹麥牛奶手工製成，那些格外美味的玉米餅則是用桑切斯女士親自用瓦哈卡玉米磨製的玉米粉製作。三份塔可套餐售價100克朗。
Christian Puglisi also honors his roots — he’s half-Sicilian — with his newest enterprise, Baest. A rollicking pizzeria, it too pays obsessive attention to its ingredients: The salumi is made and cured in-house from local organic pork, and the mozzarella, made from Danish milk, is pulled by hand. The pizzas, like one with creamy burrata and leeks, are cooked in the open kitchen’s wood-burning oven, and are as good as any you’ll find in Italy. Dinner for one, not counting drinks or tip, about 200 kroner.
克里斯汀·普利西同樣十分尊敬自己的出身——在他身上流淌着一半西西里島人的血液——這在他最近新開的餐廳Baest身上也有所體現。這是一間氣氛歡快的披薩店，同樣對原料諸多注重：醃肉是用本土有機豬肉加工醃製而成，以丹麥牛奶爲原料的馬蘇裏拉奶酪也是用人工撕成細絲。這些比薩，比如一張布拉塔芝士加韭菜風味的，是用開放式廚房裏的柴爐烤成，均不遜色於你在意大利能找到的任何一家。一人份晚餐，不包括酒水和小費，大約200克朗。
There are other noteworthy additions to the “former chef of Noma” list, including, at the high end, Taller, which specializes in a refined version of Karlos Ponte’s native Venezuelan cuisine; and, at the other, the cozy Café Lillebror, where whiskey porridge at breakfast and excellent sandwiches at lunch give way to a creative, accomplished tasting menu at dinner. Is it Nordic? In Copenhagen, at least, it no longer seems to matter.
這份“Noma前任廚師”的名單上還有另外幾個值得注意的名字，其中有走高檔路線的Taller，專擅改良卡洛斯·彭特(Karlos Ponte)的本土委內瑞拉料理；還有走平民路線、舒適愜意的Café Lillebror，早餐時的威士忌粥和午餐時的美味三明治，都比不上晚餐時充滿創意、面面俱到的特選套餐。這些都算是北歐料理嗎？至少在哥本哈根，這一點已不再那麼重要。
Madrid
馬德里
By ANDREW FERREN
作者：ANDREW FERREN
It’s not often that a prime and picturesque neighborhood gets the snub from travelers because its shops, restaurants and other establishments are considered too nice. But that’s what some visitors do with Barrio de Salamanca in Madrid, perhaps the city’s toniest enclave, often (and rather aptly) compared to the Upper East Side of Manhattan. While Salamanca’s streets aren’t paved with gold, the barrio does support a surprising density of jewelers, galleries, antiques dealers and luxury fashion houses where prices are, more often than not, sky high. On weekday mornings, rivers of tartan course along the sidewalks as uniformed children scamper off to the area’s many private schools.
一處風景如畫的一流街區，因爲商店、餐廳及其他設施都好得過頭而受到遊客的冷落，這種情形並不多見。但這正是部分遊客對馬德里的薩拉曼卡區(Barrio de Salamanca)所抱持的態度，這裏大概算是這座城市裏最豪華的飛地，堪與美國曼哈頓的上東區比肩。薩拉曼卡的街道雖非黃金鋪就，但在這處西班牙市郊中，卻隨處可見密密麻麻的珠寶店、畫廊、古董店和奢侈時裝店，其中的價格往往高達天際。每個工作日的早晨，人行道上都能看到一片蘇格蘭格子的海洋，這是身着制服的孩子們正在蹦蹦跳跳地涌向位於這處地區的多所私立學校。
But for anyone hoping to savor the true essence of Madrid, even upper-crust Barrio Salamanca has price points ranging from modest to free. Among its cultural treasures is the newly renovated Museo Arqueologico Nacional (admission 3 euros, or about $3.30), which showcases the art and history of the country’s first indigenous peoples as well as the waves of colonizers — Greek, Roman, Moorish — who came here from across the Mediterranean.
但是對於那些想要盡情感受馬德里精髓所在的人而言，即便是薩拉曼卡區這樣的上流社會街區，也有價格從適中到完全免費的地方可去。當地的文化瑰寶之一，便是新近翻修完畢的國立考古博物館(Museo Arqueologico Nacional)（門票3歐元，約合3.30美元），裏面陳列着該國首批原住民以及後繼的一批又一批跨越地中海來到這裏的殖民者——希臘人、羅馬人、摩爾人——所創造的藝術與歷史。
If you prefer your art a bit more recent, head straight up Calle Serrano to the Museo Lázaro-Galdiano (admission 6 euros, with a free hour each afternoon) where works by the likes of El Greco, Murillo and Goya share galleries with decorative arts. Other neighborhood cultural beacons include the Fundación Carlos de Amberes, and the Fundación Juan March; both are free and offer temporary exhibitions, concerts and lectures.
如果你更希望觀賞近代一些的藝術，不妨一直沿着塞拉諾街(Calle Serrano)走到加迪亞諾博物館(Museo Lázaro-Galdiano)（門票6歐元，每天下午有一個小時的免費參觀時間），裏面既有格雷考(El Greco)、穆裏略(Murillo)和戈雅(Goya)這類大師級畫家的作品，也能看到裝飾性藝術風格的作品。周邊的其他文化信標還有安特衛普卡洛斯基金會(Fundación Carlos de Amberes)和胡安·馬奇基金會(Fundación Juan March)，兩者均可免費參觀，並且提供臨時展覽、音樂會和講座。
Gastronomically speaking, the neighborhood is equally varied. Drop into Jurucha for tapas and aperitifs (2 to 3 euros), and, as winter’s chill sets in, consider Taberna de la Daniela for a siesta-inducing cocido, the traditional Madrile stew of garbanzos, vegetables and pork that is served in three courses for 26.50 euros.
就美食方面而言，這裏也同樣給出了十分多樣的選擇。路過Jurucha時，不妨進去嚐嚐那裏的餐前小吃(tapas)和開胃酒（2~3歐元）；冬日寒意降臨後，可以考慮到Taberna de la Daniela嚐嚐誘人入睡的菜燉肉(cocido)，一種用鷹嘴豆、蔬菜和豬肉烹製的傳統馬德里燉煮佳餚，三道菜套餐售價26.50歐元。
If a nap is not in your future, try Magasand, the favored gathering spot for fashionistas who snack on sandwiches (5 to 7 euros) while perusing design magazines. If you’re willing to stand in line, the new Gourmet Experience food court at the El Corte Inglés department store at Calle Serrano 52 claims seven Michelin stars among its seventh-floor food-stall vendors with outlets by Jordi Roca, Roberto Ruiz and David Mu. A meal at Mr. Mu’s sit-down StreetXO costs around 40 euros; you can graze at the other stalls for less.
如果你從來沒有想過午間小憩，可以試試Magasand，這裏是備受青睞的時尚達人聚集地，他們常在這裏一邊吃三明治（5~7歐元）一邊認真閱讀設計類雜誌。如果你願意排隊等候，位於塞拉諾街52號(Calle Serrano 52)的英格列斯百貨(El Corte Inglés)裏新開了一間Gourmet Experience食品超市，據說在七樓的食閣攤販中，有7家米其林級攤位，包括喬迪·羅卡(Jordi Roca)、羅伯特·魯伊斯(Roberto Ruiz)和大衛·穆尼奧斯(David Mu)開設的攤位。穆尼奧斯先生的坐食攤位StreetXO，人均開銷大約在40歐元；你也可以在其他外帶攤位裏買到更便宜一些的美食。
Confiteria Rialto has been selling crisp and delicate Marcona-almond and chocolate moscovita wafers (250 grams for 12 euros) for more than 80 years. At La Húngara it’s all about the sweet charms (chocolate and raspberry 10 ways) of Austro-Hungarian desserts, which range in price from 1.50 to 10 euros.
Confiteria Rialto已經賣酥脆精美的馬爾科納杏仁白巧克力華夫餅（250克售價12歐元）賣了80多年。在La Húngara，一切則都是圍繞着奧匈式甜品的（10種巧克力和覆盆子口味的）甜蜜魅力展開，價格從1.50歐元到10歐元不等。
For wearable souvenirs, Renatta & Go (T-shirts start about 15 euros) has chic casual wear for women and girls, and all that glitters is merely gold-plated at Aristocrazy (rings from 50 euros), which does a booming business in costume jewelry.
若要尋找穿戴類的紀念品，Renatta & Go（T恤售價從15歐元左右起）有別致的女性休閒服飾出售，還有Aristocrazy，那裏所有亮晶晶的東西都是鍍金製品（戒指售價從50歐元起），在飾品領域的生意十分興隆。
Last year the Spanish fast-fashion emporium Zara (dresses from 30 euros) opened an elegant and very full-service new flagship on Calle Serrano, and its Massimo Dutti division has restarted a bespoke men's wear line (custom suits from 400 euros) under the aegis of the society style maven Rafael Medina Abascal, bringing a new clientele to the brand. Other local haberdashers like Lander Urquijo and Patch Mercantile’s Curro Ariza do their part to keep the local gentry looking fine at reasonable prices (shirts, 40 to 90 euros; 80-euro jeans) especially considering the quality of the fabrics and tailoring.
去年，西班牙的快時尚商場ZARA（服飾售價30歐元起）在塞拉諾街開了一間格調雅緻、服務全面的新旗艦店，它旗下的另一品牌Massimo Dutti，也在社會時尚大師拉斐爾·梅迪納·阿瓦斯卡爾(Rafael Medina Abascal)的加盟下，重新開闢了一條定製男裝產品線（定製西裝售價400歐元起），爲這跟品牌帶來了一個新的客戶羣體。其他的本地男裝店，譬如Lander Urquijo和帕奇商業公司(Patch Mercantile)的Curro Ariza，均盡到了本份，以合理的價格提供款式精緻的本地紳士服飾（襯衫售價40~90歐元；牛仔褲80歐元），尤其是就其布料和裁剪的品質而言。
So whether your budget is 20, 200 or 2,000 euros per day, Madrid’s Barrio de Salamanca is worth getting to know.
因此，不論你的預算是日均20歐元、200歐元還是2,000歐元，馬德里的薩拉曼卡區都值得你去了解一下。
