歐洲古城行 窮遊奢遊都能行(一)
Contributors offer enticing options for both big spenders and budget minded in six favorite destinations, including Madrid, Copenhagen and Moscow.
不管是奢華遊還是窮遊，我們的撰稿人都準備出了十分誘人的旅遊方案，涵蓋馬德里、哥本哈根、莫斯科等六大人氣目的地。
Florence
佛羅倫薩
By INGRID K. WILLIAMS
作者：INGRID K. WILLIAMS
“Everything spoke so vividly to my soul,” Stendhal wrote in the 19th century of the Renaissance artworks with which Florence is so richly endowed.
“一切都在如此鮮活地向我的靈魂傾訴，”司湯達(Stendhal)在19世紀時，曾如此描述文藝復興時期的藝術品，而這正是佛羅倫薩最不缺少的東西。
Today, a visitor to Florence could be stricken by a modern-day variant of that syndrome, simply faced with the treasures arrayed on counters and shelves in the city’s jewel-box shops and artisan ateliers. And it can happen at price points at both ends of the spectrum.
如今，一名來到佛羅倫薩的遊客，單是面對這座城市的珠寶盒店和工匠工作室裏的櫃檯與貨架上碼放的寶物，就可能完全被類似的現代人心理所攻陷。這種心理既可能出現在價格奇高的時候，也可能出現在價格親民的時候。
It could happen at the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, where shopping for sweet rosewater and ancient herbal elixirs is a near-religious experience. It could happen in a side-street showroom of one of the city’s bespoke shoemakers, where gleaming, handcrafted leather brogues look like sculptures too beautiful to touch, let alone put on one’s feet. Or at the atelier of Lorenzo Villoresi, as the perfumer performs the meditative alchemy that will result in a signature scent, or at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where the centuries-old looms can lull you into a trance while they weave sumptuous silks fit for royalty.
可能是出現在聖塔瑪莉亞諾維拉香水製造廠(Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella)裏，在這裏選購甜美的玫瑰水和古老的中藥製劑，是種近乎於宗教性質的體驗。也可能出現在該市某位定製鞋匠位於某條小巷內的樣品間裏，這裏鋥光發亮的手工皮布洛克鞋看上去有如雕像一般美到不可褻玩，更是教人捨不得穿到腳上。又或者出現在洛倫佐·維爾裏西(Lorenzo Villoresi)的作坊裏，這位調香師修煉的內丹術能夠生成一種標誌性的香氣；再或者是在佛羅倫薩古絲綢廠(Antico Setificio Fiorentino)，廠裏具有上百年曆史的紡織機在紡織供給皇室的華麗絲綢時，能讓你的內心平靜下來，進入到一種放空的狀態。
But my Stendhal moment struck at Ferragamo.
而我的“司湯達時刻”則出現在菲拉格慕。
Joined by my friend Jessie, who was visiting from New York, I walked the length of Via de’ Tornabuoni, the epicenter of Florentine Alta Moda. At the southern end of the street, in a grand medieval palazzo, is the flagship store that Salvatore Ferragamo opened in 1937. Today the stone edifice also houses the Ferragamo Museo, which documents the life of the shoemaker who created trendsetting designs for Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe.
我的朋友傑西從紐約過來，陪我一起走完了整條託納波尼路(Via de’ Tornabuoni)——佛羅倫薩的時尚中心。在這條街道的南端，一間宏偉的中世紀宮殿裏，有一間1937年開業的薩瓦託·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)旗艦店。如今，這座石砌建築內還開設了一間菲拉格慕博物館(Ferragamo Museo)，用來記錄這位製鞋匠的一生——他曾爲瑪麗蓮·夢露(Marilyn Monroe)等諸多好萊塢明星創作了引領潮流的新設計。
But we were there for the shoes. We entered a hushed salon awash in hues of beige and the heady scent of leather. Along the walls was a rainbow — plum patent leather heels, blue suede moccasins, cherry-red flats with prim grosgrain bows. We were both drawn to a pair of seductively high heels in wool houndstooth. Terribly impractical for both my budget and the cobblestones with which all Italian residents must contend, the heels went home with Jessie. I contented myself with a more sensible splurge: classic ballerinas in supple black leather. (Prices go up to 1,000 euros for shoes — nearly $1,100 at $1.10 to the euro — though most fall between 300 to 500 euros.)
不過我們是來這裏看鞋子的。我們走進了一間靜謐的鞋店，裏面遍佈着真皮的米黃色色調，瀰漫着醉人的真皮香氣。店內的牆面上鋪成了一道彩虹——紫紅色的漆皮高跟鞋，藍色的絨面莫卡辛鞋，櫻桃紅色的平底鞋，上面還裝飾着端莊的羅緞蝴蝶結。我們兩人都被一雙迷人的千鳥格羊毛面料高跟鞋吸引住了。可惜無論是考慮到我的預算，還是考慮到所有住在意大利的人都必須與之搏鬥的鵝卵石路面，這雙高跟鞋都非常地不切實際，它還是被傑西買回了家。我則通過一筆更爲明智的揮霍滿足了自己的慾望：一雙採用柔軟的黑色皮革製成的經典款芭蕾舞鞋。（每雙鞋的價格最高可達1,000歐元——按1歐元兌1.10美元計算約合1,100美元——不過大部分都在300歐元到500歐元不等。）
Yet like a love that slipped away, the houndstooth heels still haunt my thoughts on every return to Florence. I imagine a secondhand pair might one day turn up at my favorite vintage store, Marie Antoinette, which opened a year and a half ago in an alley behind Ferragamo. The shop stocks pristine secondhand as well as new pieces from local designers, so you can score like-new Gucci hobo bags, candy-colored Miu Miu heels and suede Proenza Schouler satchels for prices that are surprisingly reasonable, though still far from frugal — about half of what they cost new in the designer stores. Many bags are under 1,000 euros.
然而，那雙千鳥格高跟鞋就像一名擦肩而過的愛人，在我每次重回佛羅倫薩時都依然縈繞在我的腦海中。我幻想着也許會有那麼一天，一雙二手的千鳥格高跟鞋將會出現在我最喜歡的古着店瑪麗安託瓦內特(Marie Antoinette)店內——這家古着店於一年半前開業，就坐落在菲拉格慕後面的一條小巷內。這間商店裏既有早期的二手古着，也有本土設計師的設計新品，你可以淘到近乎全新的古奇(Gucci)新月包、繆繆(Miu Miu)糖果色高跟鞋和普羅恩薩·施羅(Proenza Schouler)絨面郵差包，價格雖然遠遠稱不上節儉，卻也已經合理得驚人了——大約只要設計師品牌店售價的一半左右。許多手袋的價格都不到1,000歐元。
Truly great deals were once easy to find in Florence’s markets, like sprawling San Lorenzo where stall after stall is filled with leather goods of varying provenance and quality. Sadly, that is often no longer the case. Skeptics may save their euros for a purchase at the Scuola del Cuoio in Santa Croce, where you can watch master craftsmen make top-handle totes and roomy overnight bags that are sold on-site for a fraction of what they’d likely cost in the States. Most items are in the 300- to 400-euro range, more for exotic leathers.
在佛羅倫薩的許多集市裏，曾經很容易找到特別划算的商品，比如佔地面積龐大的聖洛倫索(San Lorenzo)，那裏一座又一座的小攤上，擺滿了不同產地不同品質的皮革製品。遺憾的是，如今這種場景已經不再多見。疑心比較重的遊客，可能會把他們的歐元留到聖十字廣場(Santa Croce)內的皮革作坊Scuola del Cuoio裏再來消費，你可以在這間店裏觀賞到大師級的工匠製作手拎包和寬敞的旅行袋，這些製品均在現場銷售，價格可能只需要在美國的幾分之一。大部分商品的價格都在300歐元到400歐元之間，使用進口皮革的商品會更貴一點。
But a little risk at the market can still yield great rewards. Years ago, my husband artfully bargained down the price of a cognac leather briefcase at the Mercato del Porcellino, ultimately obtained for 75 euros. It may not be Ferragamo, but after years of wear from daily use, the Italian leather has never looked better.
但是在集市上冒點風險，仍然可能帶來巨大的回報。幾年前，我先生就很厲害地在小豬市場(Mercato del Porcellino)裏，將一隻棕褐色公文包的價錢一直侃到了75歐元，成功入手。即便不是菲拉格慕的牌子，在經過多年的日常穿用之後，意大利的皮革都會變得越來越耐看。
Champagne
香檳
By ALEXANDER LOBRANO
作者：ALEXANDER LOBRANO
When this region of northeastern France was awarded World Heritage status by Unesco in July, there was no doubt what quaff would be poured to celebrate the new designation — the world’s most elegant and expensive sparkling wine. Happily, though, discovering the bubbly on its home turf is as much a pleasure for budget travelers as it is for big spenders.
這處位於法國東北部的地區，於今年7月被聯合國教科文組織評爲了世界遺產，此時要倒來暢飲以慶祝這一新頭銜所用的佳釀，自然得是世界上最優雅也最昂貴的氣泡酒。不過讓人開心的是，在香檳的家鄉尋找這種起泡酒，爲囊中羞澀的遊客和一擲千金的遊客所帶來的樂趣基本是對等的。
The best experiences in Champagne are often both sensual and studious, including the most surprising lesson many learn from a trip to Reims, the area’s largest city: That festive image to one side, Champagne is also a profoundly sophisticated and complex table wine, pairing well with the superb food served in the region’s many excellent restaurants.
在香檳感受到的最佳體驗，往往兼具感官與見識兩方面，其中有一條最令人驚喜的經驗，很多人都會在前往當地最大城市蘭斯(Reims)的旅途中學習到：除了上述節慶用途之外，香檳也是一款口感極爲成熟多變的餐桌葡萄酒，與當地許多出色餐館所提供的優質食物，在口味上都可以完美搭配。
The most delicious way to discover Champagne’s gastronomic aptitude is through one of the regularly renewed menus that the chef Philippe Mille creates at Le Parc, the Michelin two-star restaurant at the plush Le Domaine Les Crayères hotel. This past winter, Mr. Mille’s stunning black-truffle-themed menu, served with a selection of Krug Champagnes, began with grilled scallops and celery-and-black-truffle “risotto” in a Parmesan foam; echoes of the sweet scallops, earthy truffles and Parmesan’s salty umami richness could all be tasted in the paired wine, a Grande Cuvée called “L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime.”
感受香檳美味的最佳方式，就是藉助於大廚菲利·米勒(Philippe Mille)爲豪華的雷克萊耶爾酒店(Le Le Domaine Les Crayères)內開設的米其林二星級餐廳Le Parc設計的任意一份定期更新的菜單。去年冬季，米勒先生推出了令人驚豔的黑松露主題菜單，搭配精選的庫克香檳(Krug Champagnes)，頭盤爲烤扇貝配西芹黑松露意大利調味飯(risotto)澆帕馬森芝士泡沫汁；鮮甜的扇貝、樸實的松露和帕馬森芝士的鹹香相互呼應，配合一款名爲L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime的庫克陳年香檳(Grande Cuvée)，逐一品味。
Since such a luxurious and expensive meal (360 euros, about $395) should be savored, you might as well spend the night at Les Crayères, as I did; with silk damask curtains framing beautiful views of the gardens that surround this Belle chateau, these cosseting rooms begin at 370 euros a night, low season; 395 euros a night, high season.
如此豪華昂貴的佳餚（360歐元，約合395美元）理應全方位享受，建議你不妨像我一樣，在雷克萊耶爾酒店下榻一晚；絲制錦緞窗簾框出一幅幅環繞這座美好年代(Belle )酒莊而建的公園美景，這般極盡奢華的房間的價格爲淡季一晚370歐元起，旺季一晚395歐元起。
The next morning, I headed to the Atelier Dom Pérignon in nearby Hautvillers for what may be the region’s most charming and erudite lesson in Champagne connoisseurship. These workshops, which are limited to 12 participants and cost 600 euros, include a visit to the 12th-century abbey where the label’s namesake Champagne-making Benedictine monk is buried, a visit to the cellars, lunch and a tasting of three Champagnes; specify when booking if you want an English-language session.
次日一早，我出發前往附近的歐維萊爾(Hautvillers)小鎮裏的唐培裏儂酒坊(Atelier Dom Pérignon)，去參加大概算是當地最吸引人也最開眼界的香檳鑑賞課。這類課程最多僅限12人蔘加，收費600歐元，內容包括：參觀一間12世紀的修道院，當年釀造出這款香檳的本篤會僧人唐培裏儂就下葬於此；參觀酒窖；享用午餐，同時品嚐三款香檳；預訂課程時記得指明是否是要英語班。
Even if the atelier hadn’t been so amiable, interesting and animated, it would have been worth it for the head-spinning pleasure of tasting the 2003 rosé, which was spicy on the palate with a salty finish and had a nose that included figs, strawberries, guava, violets and vanilla.
即便酒坊的氣氛沒有那麼平易近人、趣味盎然和栩栩如生，卻依然值得一去，體驗品嚐2003年份玫瑰香檳(rosé)時的眩暈樂趣，這種香檳的口感辛辣，餘味帶鹹，充滿無花果、草莓、石榴、紫羅蘭和香草的香氣。
Reims is also both an easy day trip from Gare de l’Est station in Paris and comfortably visited on foot or by public transportation, making it the most affordable choice for anyone wanting to discover Champagne at the source.
要去蘭斯，你既可從巴黎東站(Gare de l’Est)出發，輕鬆地完成一趟當天來回的短途旅行，也可舒適地搭乘公共交通工具或步行前往，這對任何想要在香檳之鄉發掘香檳之美的人而言，都是最實惠的選擇。
The only Champagne cellar tour in Reims where you don’t need an advance booking is Taittinger, which charges a very reasonable 16.50 euros for an hourlong English-language tour. It offers a good general introduction to how Champagne is made and concludes with a sample of Taittinger’s very suave Brut Réserve Champagne.
在蘭斯，唯一不需要你提前預訂的香檳酒窖遊是泰亭哲(Taittinger)酒窖，這裏收費合理，16.50歐元便可享受一個小時的英語觀光。其中會生動地簡要介紹香檳如何釀造，並在最後提供泰亭哲的幾種口感成熟的珍藏純幹香檳(Brut Réserve Champagne)的樣品供大家品嚐。
After the cellar tour, you’ll be ready for lunch; a perfect spot is the new modern bistro Racine, run by the talented young Japanese-born chef Kazuyuki Tanaka. The two-course 29-euro weekday lunch menu includes delicious contemporary French dishes like shrimp with candied lemon and butternut squash or rabbit with radishes and basil; there’s also a short but excellent wine list of distinctive small-producer “Grower” Champagnes, or wines produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards from which the grapes come. The restaurant also happens to be just around the corner from the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-Reims, where most of the kings of France were coronated. Since there is no entrance fee at the church, the pleasure of discovering its stained-glass windows, which range from a spectacular medieval rose window over the main doorway to contemporary works created by the artist Paul Chagall, is free.
酒窖遊之後，大家的午餐便已準備就緒；有一處完美的場所便是新建的現代酒館Racine，老闆是在日本出生、才華洋溢的大廚田中和幸(Kazuyuki Tanaka，音譯)。這份價值29歐元的午餐由兩道菜組成，包括美味的當代法國料理，例如蜜漬檸檬蝦配冬南瓜，或者水蘿蔔羅勒兔肉；還有一份類目不多但是十分出色的酒單，裏面會有風味獨特的小衆釀酒商酒農香檳(Grower)，或是由自身就擁有葡萄園的酒莊使用自己出產的葡萄釀成的葡萄酒。就餐的餐廳恰好也在宏偉的哥特式大教堂蘭斯主教座堂(Notre-Dame de Reims)附近，大多數的法國國王都是在這座教堂里加冕登基的。這座教堂可以免費入內參觀，因此遊客也可以免費享受探索教堂內花窗玻璃的樂趣，其中既有懸掛在大門上方瑰麗無比的中世紀玫瑰窗，也有藝術家保羅·夏卡爾(Paul Chagall)創作的現代花窗。
Moscow
莫斯科
By CHARLY WILDER
作者：CHARLY WILDER
A decade ago, Moscow night life was synonymous with a certain brand of over-the-top opulence, all ’80s pomp and ’90s pout. The new-moneyed elite of the post-Soviet era had left their indelible mark: endless bottle service, velvet ropes, V.I.P. tables, pyrotechnics and gamine go-go dancers.
十年前，莫斯科的夜生活就是某種特定的代名詞，象徵着過度的奢華，各種80年代的盛況和90年代的挫折。蘇聯解散後不斷涌現的新貴精英，在這裏留下了他們不可磨滅的標記：沒完沒了的整瓶服務、天鵝絨圍欄、貴賓桌、炫富和妖冶的豔舞舞女。
Even with Russia’s recent economic downturn and fallout with the West over Ukraine, there’s still no shortage of splashy upscale club culture. The fanciest — Soho Rooms, Krysha and the newer banker favorite Siberia — impose capriciously rigorous door policies (known here as “face control”) and hold parties that would make a Las Vegas stage show look discreet. But the clubbing landscape has diversified in the last 10 years, and many of the newer high-end venues take a more toned-down, or at least tongue-in-cheek, approach.
即便俄羅斯最近慘遭經濟衰退，西方世界也爲烏克蘭帶來了負面影響，引人注目的高級俱樂部文化卻依然盛行不衰。那些最時髦的經營場所——Soho Rooms、Krysha還有備受新晉銀行家青睞的Siberia——實施着單方面嚴格的入場政策（在當地稱爲“看臉入場”），舉辦的派對足以讓拉斯維加斯的舞臺表演相形失色。不過當地夜總會的經營形式在過去10年裏已經愈發多元，許多更新的高檔場所都採取了一種更爲低調，起碼是十分安分守己的姿態。
Moscow’s fashionable artsy set tends to stay out of the flashy clubs, populating instead places like Noor, a Spanish-tiled cocktail bar and gallery that by night turns into one of the city’s chicest parties. To look at the crowd — black-clad, androgynous, stylishly understated — you could be in Lower Manhattan or East London, with nary a neon mini-dress in sight.
莫斯科的時尚藝術圈往往遠離那些俗麗的俱樂部，另外紮根於Noor這樣的地方，這是一間充滿西班牙風情的雞尾酒吧兼藝術廊，每到夜晚，就會搖身一變，成爲這座城市裏最時尚的派對會場之一。看看周圍的人羣，他們一襲黑衣，男女莫辨，有種低調的別緻，會讓你錯以爲自己身處曼哈頓下城或倫敦東區，只是連一件霓虹色的迷你裙都看不到。
Another club that bucks the boilerplate is Denis Simachev, owned by the designer of the same name whose brand of punk-opulent postmodern camp has made him big in Russian fashion. This (non)aesthetic permeates the venue: beaded curtains, disco balls and toilets and sinks that double as furnishings, a disused electric chair and a semi-pornographic anime tile mosaic.
另一間以標杆自詡的俱樂部是Denis Simachev，店名沿用了老闆自己的名字丹尼斯·西馬切夫，他是一名設計師，擁有一個走華麗朋克路線的後現代露營品牌，令他馳名於俄羅斯時尚界。這種（非）審美觀滲透了這間會場的方方面面：珠簾，兼作裝飾物品的迪斯科舞廳、廁所和水槽，一臺已報廢的電椅，還有略帶色情意味的動漫圖案瓷磚鑲嵌。
The crowd is young, urbane and gay-friendly, as was Mr. Simachev’s recently closed second nightclub, the Chinese-themed #LOL (yes, really). #LOL played host for the transgender rapper American Mykki Blanco in November when Solyanka, the venue where she was scheduled to perform, was raided and closed that morning. Now, if you want to see 19-year-old Russian boys dressed up like health-goth (think fetish punk meets Soul Cycle) Japanese girls , Denis Simachev is probably your best bet.
這裏的顧客年輕斯文，善待同志，就和西馬切夫先生最近剛剛停業的第二間夜總會，以中華元素爲主題的#LOL（是的，就是這個名字）一樣。今年11月，美國跨性別饒舌歌手米基·布蘭科(Mykki Blanco)原定用作演出會場的Solyanka遭到搶劫，於當日上午關門停業，便是#LOL接過了主辦的重任。現在，如果你想看到19歲的俄羅斯男生打扮成運動哥特風（想象一下戀物癖朋克與精品健身房Soul Cycle的結合體）的日本女生，Denis Simachev大概就是你的最佳選擇。
Sprawling riverside Gipsy recently reopened after a six-month hiatus on Krasny Oktyabr, or Red October, an island opposite the Kremlin that is home to the former chocolate factory complex of the same name. There, high-rolling 20-somethings in European designer outfits dance under an electrified ceiling covered in enormous mirror balls while big-name Russian D.J.s spin remixed pop and hip-hop hits on a stage lit up with neon LED. There are palm trees and swimming pools and replicas of famous Soviet socialist-realist statues wearing sunglasses and club regalia. In typical Moscow style, Gipsy’s menu includes sushi, flavored hookah pipes and a drink list that ranges from a 300-ruble cup of tea (about $4.70, at 65 rubles to the dollar) to an 80,000-ruble magnum of Dom Pérignon.
臨河而建、佔地廣闊的Gipsy，經過6個月的沉寂後，在紅十月島(Krasny Oktyabr)上重新開業，這座小島正對着克里姆林宮，以前曾是同名巧克力加工廠的廠房所在地。俱樂部裏，一羣20多歲、瘋狂舞動的年輕人，穿着歐洲設計師設計的行頭，在掛滿了巨大鏡球的電氣化天花板下方舞動，大牌的俄羅斯DJ們則在霓虹燈照耀下的舞臺上，打着混音後的流行和嘻哈勁曲。那裏有棕櫚樹，游泳池，還有蘇聯時期的著名社會寫實主義雕像的複製品，上面掛着墨鏡和俱樂部的徽章。Gipsy是典型的俄羅斯式俱樂部，菜單內容有壽司，調味水煙管，和一份內容廣泛的酒水單，既有300盧布一杯的茶水（按1美元兌65盧布計算，約合4.70美元），也有80,000盧布一瓶的唐培裏儂香檳王(Dom Pérignon)。
Though Moscow is not known for its dive bar culture, those in search of cheap night life can find a few standouts. Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da (Russian for Chinese Pilot Jao Da, a semi-mythical character whose exploits are detailed throughout the premises) is a basement bar and rock music space with a lived-in, salon-like atmosphere. Drinks are mostly under 300 rubles, less if you go for the rotating shot specials.
雖然莫斯科的廉價酒吧文化並不出名，不過尋求平民夜生活的人倒是可以在這裏找到幾處不錯的去處。Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da（在俄語中爲“中國飛行員Jao Da”之意，這是一位半神話色彩的人物，這間俱樂部裏詳細地描繪了他的事蹟）是一間地下酒吧和搖滾樂空間，內有現場演出，帶着一種有如沙龍般的氛圍。這裏酒水的價格大部分不到300盧布，特調流水酒水的話還要更便宜。
Vtoroe Dyhania (Russian for “Second Wind”), at 10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok, is the last of its kind in Moscow: a 50-year-old authentic Soviet “rumochnaya” or vodka room. It’s a simple room where all-day drinkers, walk-ins and a smattering of ironically outfitted university students stand around tall round tables drinking tap beer and, of course, vodka, which still sells for an incredible one ruble per gram, meaning a 50-gram “rumka” costs about 70 cents. On the exposed-brick walls, framed Soviet bar posters serve as a reminder that before the Champagne and disco balls, Moscow had a different kind of drinking tradition.
Vtoroe Dyhania（俄語中爲“重振旗鼓”之意），位於10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok，是莫斯科同類酒吧中的最後一間——擁有50年曆史的地道蘇聯伏特加酒吧(rumochnaya)。它只有一間佈置簡樸的小屋，那些日夜喝個不停的酒鬼、途經的路人和少量穿得人模人樣的大學生們圍站在高高的圓桌四周，喝着生啤，當然還有伏特加，每克的價格竟然依然只要1盧布，也就是50克一“份”（rumka，俄羅斯專門用於盛放伏特加的酒杯——譯者注）的價格只要70美分。裸露的磚牆上所掛的帶框蘇聯酒吧海報提醒着大家，在香檳和迪斯科球盛行之前，莫斯科曾有另外一種飲酒習俗。
