如何在巴黎的跳蚤市場尋寶

St.-Ouen. The name made me shudder. Whenever visitors asked me to take them to that vast set of flea markets just north of the Paris city line, I did my best to divert them elsewhere.

聖圖安(St.-Ouen)，這個名字讓我不寒而慄。無論什麼時候，但凡有遊客請我帶他們去巴黎北郊這片龐雜的跳蚤市場，我都會千方百計勸他們換個地方。

For me, getting to the Marché aux Puces de Paris/St.-Ouen was exhausting. It meant a ride on the No. 4 Métro line to the Porte de Clignancourt in the 18th Arrondissement and 15 minutes of jostling through a bazaar of cheap clothing, fabrics, leather goods, trinkets, cellphone covers, pots and pans.

對我來說，光是抵達巴黎跳蚤市場（即聖圖安市場）就讓人筋疲力盡。它意味着你得先坐地鐵4號線來到第18區的科里尼安古爾門(Porte de Clignancourt)站，然後在一條兩側擺滿便宜衣服、布料、皮革製品、小工藝品、手機殼、鍋碗瓢盆等雜物的路上穿行15分鐘，才終於到達。

St.-Ouen is so big (1,700 dealers in 14 markets spread over 750,000 square feet) that the only way to get around is with a map. Even then, I tended to end up in cul-de-sacs of oppressive, overpriced crystal chandeliers, marble mantel pieces, gilt-framed mirrors and Italian floor lamps in the shape of palm trees.

聖圖安市場真大（在75萬平方英尺的空間裏，共有14個分市場，1700家店鋪），若想順利遊覽一遍，必須帶上地圖。但即使有了地圖，我還是差點走進死衚衕，陷入昂貴水晶吊燈、大理石壁爐臺、鍍金框鏡子和棕櫚樹造型的意大利落地燈的包圍之中。

Then there was the bargain issue. There was a time when St.-Ouen was a place where tourists could hope to outwit the dealers. Decades ago, the columnist Art Buchwald wrote that it was a “hodgepodge of taste” where “one may find some precious thing the rest have overlooked, or he may have his pocket picked.”

隨之而來的是砍價問題。曾幾何時，聖圖安市場的遊客可能比賣家更精明。數十年前，專欄作家阿特·巴奇沃德(Art Buchwald)曾撰文寫道，它是個“品味齊全的大雜燴”，顧客“說不定能找到別人視而不見的珍寶，但也可能會被偷走錢包”。

The part about finding some precious thing (cheap, that is) became much harder as rents soared, the dollar sank, dealers catered to wealthy foreigners and the antiques market turned digital. Having your pocket picked, however, was never a challenge.

現在，找到好東西（即便宜東西）更難了，因爲攤位租金飛漲，美元貶值，賣家都轉而開始吸引富裕的外國遊客，古董市場也越發數字化。然而顧客仍有可能遭到扒竊，這一點並無改變。

So I preferred to take visitors to Puces de Vanves, the small, messy, open-air flea market on the opposite end of town, where bargains were still to be had. I showed them the proof: a 2-euro silver-plated gravy boat in the shape of a swan and a 10-euro cache of mismatched cut-crystal cordial glasses ($2.40 and $12, at $1.21 to the euro). I introduced them to the button man with thousands of Bakelite buttons sewn on to their original cards, and the woman with the collection of 10-euro cuff links.

所以我寧可帶着遊客到旺福跳蚤市場(Puces de Vanves)，它位於巴黎市的另一邊，是個雜亂的小型露天跳蚤市場，在那兒仍然可以買到划算的寶貝。我向他們展示瞭如下證據：一隻鍍銀的天鵝造型肉汁盤2歐元，一組不成套的切割水晶甜酒杯10歐元。按照1歐元等於1.21美元計算，這兩樣物品的價格約合2.4美元和12美元。我推薦了一名鈕釦匠，他家店裏有數千只樹膠鈕釦，都縫在創意十足的卡片上，還有一名女店主，她家的各式袖釦只賣10歐元。

I also logged on to , the website that announces weekly street markets. Vide-greniers literally means “empty the attics”; they range from residents participating in a neighborhood fair to itinerant professional dealers.

我也會登錄，該網站的名字意爲“空蕩蕩的閣樓”，上面發佈每週的街頭集市清單。參與者從參加社區集市的本地居民到巡迴叫賣的專業賣家，不一而足。

Then, over the last two years, St.-Ouen has become cool again, as a go-to weekend destination for young Parisians as well as foreign tourists. And not only for treasure-hunting.

然而在過去的兩年中，聖圖安市場再次酷炫起來，成爲巴黎年輕一代和外國遊客週末逛街的好去處。而且，來這裏不僅僅是爲了淘到寶貝。

The Iranian-born cameraman Darius Khondji made the flea market sparkle in Woody Allen’s 2011 crowd-pleaser, “Midnight in Paris.” (In case you don’t remember, Inez dips in and out of the stalls of Marché Paul-Bert-Serpette Puces de Paris St.-Ouen, the largest of the markets; Gil wanders off and makes the acquaintance of a French antiques dealer named Gabrielle who shares his passion for the Lost Generation. The message is clear: Anyone can go to Paris and find serendipity, beautiful objects and a soul mate.)

在伍迪·艾倫2011年深受歡迎的電影《午夜巴黎》(Midnight in Paris)中，伊朗出生的攝像師達利爾斯·康迪(Darius Khondji)通過鏡頭，讓這座跳蚤市場更加光彩奪目。（不記得了？那我提示一下：在劇中，吉爾與伊內茲在巴黎聖圖安的保羅-伯特-賽爾貝德市場逛街，吉爾偶然結識了法國古董商加布裏埃，在後者的引薦之下，領略了迷惘一代的激情生活。電影傳達的信息很清晰：人人都可以來巴黎尋找內心的寧靜、漂亮的物品和靈魂的伴侶。）

I discovered that it’s as easy as pie to get straight to Rue Paul Bert, one of the main streets of St.-Ouen, from the Left Bank north through Montmartre on the Right Bank via the No. 85 bus. It’s a lovely way to see Paris. As for pickpockets, warnings throughout the market and armies of both local police officers and private security guards serve as deterrents.

我發現直接去保羅伯特大街易如反掌。這是聖圖安市場的主路之一，從左岸北到右岸的蒙馬特，可乘坐85路公交車順利抵達。這是一種可愛的巴黎觀光方式。至於扒竊行爲，市場裏到處都貼着警告信息，本地警察與私人安保公司都是可靠的震懾力量。

Last year, the European furniture designer Habitat spearheaded a move to transform a spacious courtyard of old ateliers and warehouses on Rue des Rosiers across the street from Paul-Bert-Serpette into soaring, deluxe spaces that look more like small museums than retail shops.

去年，歐洲傢俱設計商愛必居(Habitat)率先來到這片市場，入駐保羅-伯特-賽爾貝德市場對面薔薇街上一座寬敞的院子，將裏面的老作坊與倉庫改建爲高聳的奢華屋宇。而今，它看上去更像一座博物館，而非傢俱分銷店。

Habitat 1964, as the 4,300-square-foot installation is called in honor of the year the company was founded, plays cool jazz and showcases furnishings no longer in production, including its 1977 Mushroom lamp and 1993 Altona desk. Beware the prices: a rare Pierre Paulin couch in sky blue was recently selling for 15,000 euros.

這家店坐擁4300平方英尺的內部空間，名叫“愛必居1964”，以此向公司的誕生之年致敬。店內播放着冷爵士樂，展覽着業已絕版的家居產品，包括1977年的蘑菇屋(Mushroom)燈具和1993年的阿爾託納(Altona)書桌。注意價格：一套珍稀的天藍色皮埃爾寶蘭(Pierre Paulin)沙發最新售價爲15000歐元。

Another pioneer is L’Eclaireur, which opened its seventh Paris outlet in a former chandelier repair atelier here. It offers high-end contemporary furniture, sculptures and vintage haute couture clothing. Galerie Gam next door specializes in 20th-century French furniture design from the 1950s through the 1970s; Le White, in objects in, bien sûr, white.

另一家先鋒店是“時尚偵察兵”(L’Eclaireur)，這是該品牌在巴黎的第七家分店，那裏曾是一家吊燈修理作坊。它供應高端的當代傢俱、雕塑與經典高級時裝。隔壁的加姆畫廊(Galerie Gam)專營20世紀的法國家居設計，包含20世紀50年代至70年代的作品。還有一家店叫“白色”，當然了，專營白色的傢俱。

Also in the courtyard, Mademoiselle Steinitz’s industrial warehouse mixes rare furniture, fantastical sculptures, contemporary photography and formal gowns. On a recent visit, a Viennese Arts and Crafts couch with two armchairs and two side chairs was 53,000 euros; a one-of-a-kind 1910 butterfly desk and chairs by the Belle Époque fashion designer Paul Poiret cost 300,000 euros.

院子裏還有一家“司坦妮小姐”(Mademoiselle Steinitz)，它的庫房裏琳琅滿目，包括珍稀的傢俱、夢幻的雕塑、當代攝影作品與正裝禮服。最近我逛過他們店，記得一套“維也納藝術與工藝”品牌的沙發配兩個扶手椅及兩個直背單椅，售價53000歐元；一臺1910年的獨一無二的蝴蝶書桌和椅子，由美好年代(Belle Époque)的時尚大師保羅·珀瑞特(Paul Poiret)設計，售價30萬歐元。

Nearby, three small early-20th-century houses on Rue Paul Bert are musts for lookers who may not be buyers. Un Singe en Hiver, covered with wisteria and ivy at No. 6, features an inner courtyard with old stone crockery, a stone ostrich and antlers in a bowl. Sylvain Seron, who owns the space with his wife, Sylvie, will be eager to explain the history of the objects, including the construction of long metal tables from 19th-century industrial water tanks.

附近的保羅伯特大街上，有三座20世紀早期的房屋堪稱必遊之地，哪怕不買他們的東西。“冬天的猴子”(Un Singe en Hiver)位於這條大街的6號，牆上綴滿紫藤花與常青藤，內部的庭院裏有古老的石餐具、石鴕鳥和放在碗裏的鹿角。這家店鋪的主人是西爾萬·塞隆(Sylvain Seron)和妻子賽爾薇(Sylvie)，他們會熱切地向你介紹每件物品的歷史，比如，那些金屬長桌是由19世紀的工業水槽改造而成的。

Up a stone staircase at La Petite Maison at No. 10, François Casal also loves conversation, so much so that if you stay long enough he may offer you a glass of Champagne in a heavy crystal goblet. Ask him about the zinc-topped, marble-based bar with inlaid mother-of-pearl at the entrance.

踏上大街10號“珀蒂特”(La Petite Maison)的石階，你會發現店主弗朗索瓦·卡薩爾(François Casal)特愛聊天。如果你待的時間夠長，他會用沉甸甸的水晶高腳杯倒一杯香檳遞給你。跟他聊些什麼呢？不妨談談這座酒吧那鍍鋅的門楣、鋪地的大理石和鑲嵌着珍珠母的大門。

My least favorite shop of the trio is Colonial Concept at No. 8, although it is a taxidermist’s delight, with more than a dozen stuffed peacocks, zebra heads, a stuffed leopard and a stuffed lion lying on its side; 4,500 euros will buy you a bearskin rug. Feather headdresses, white corals, polished fossils, a partial giraffe, assorted skulls, lamps made of ostrich eggs — all make it difficult for the environmentally correct visitor to embrace. Photographs are forbidden; the chilly welcome makes you wonder whether it wants customers at all.

三家店鋪之中我最不喜歡的是8號的“殖民概念”(Colonial Concept)，儘管它是獸皮師的最愛。店裏陳列着十幾只孔雀標本和斑馬頭，牆邊擺放着獵豹和獅子填充標本。4500歐元可以買到一條熊皮毯。羽毛頭巾、白珊瑚、打磨光亮的化石、一隻殘缺的長頸鹿、分類整齊的動物頭骨、鴕鳥蛋製成的檯燈，凡此種種都讓環保愛好者難以接受。店內禁止拍照。店員的服務態度也不熱情，令人懷疑他們是否根本不歡迎顧客的到來。

St.-Ouen has become a better bad place to eat. For a snack or light lunch, La Buvette des Tartes Kluger in what was once a brick factory in the Habitat courtyard offers Kluger’s wide assortment of homemade sweet and savory pies; lunch can be eaten on picnic tables outside.

聖圖安已經成爲饕餮勝地。想品嚐小吃或快餐，可以去愛必居院子裏的La Buvette des Tartes Kluger餐廳，店址由昔日的磚廠改建而成，供應家常製作的甜食和開胃餡餅，品種豐富，也可以在屋外的野餐桌上享用午餐。

Since 2012, there is also Ma Cocotte, a high-ceilinged, two-level brasserie designed by Philippe Starck. With several small dining rooms and two large terraces, it screams new, a contrast to the flea market’s warrens of alleys. Without sufficient insulation, it also screams loud. The restaurant, which offers everything from caviar and foie gras to cheeseburgers and fish and chips, is open evenings during the week, even when the flea market is closed.

2012年，這裏有了一家“馬可可特”(Ma Cocotte)，這家佔地兩層的啤酒餐廳天花板很高，由菲利普·斯達克(Philippe Starck)設計。包含幾個小餐室、兩個大露臺，簇新簇新的，與跳蚤市場的陋巷對比鮮明。由於沒有足夠的隔音設施，餐廳內也很喧鬧。供應各種美食，包括魚子醬、鵝肝醬、芝士堡、炸魚和薯片，從週一到週日每天晚上開放營業，哪怕是跳蚤市場歇業的時候。

There are also the old-timers, like Café Paul Bert for a reliable steak frites on Rue Paul Bert, and Le P’tit Landais on Rue des Rosiers for a slab of foie gras and green salad. A two-course lunch for two with wine at either place will cost around 35 euros, one of the best bargains at St.-Ouen.

此地也有老字號，比如保羅伯特大街上的保羅伯特餐廳，供應的牛排加炸薯條值得信賴，而薔薇街上的Le P’tit Landais則供應美味的鵝肝醬和蔬菜沙拉。兩道菜的雙人午餐包含酒，在這兩家餐廳花費都是35歐元左右，在聖圖安市場，算是最划算的了。

In the past two years, about 50 shops have opened in Paul-Bert-Serpette, many by younger dealers. Mid-20th-century furniture, lighting and decorative arts in modern, unadorned spaces are popular, trendy and pricey.

在過去的兩年中，保羅-伯特-賽爾貝德市場內開張了大概50家新店鋪，店主大都是年輕一代。店鋪多是極簡風格的房屋搭配20世紀中期的現代傢俱與照明系統，紅火、時尚而昂貴。

Last spring, the Parisian media magnate Jean-Cyrille Boutmy bought Paul-Bert-Serpette. He has already implemented measures to guarantee the authenticity of the market’s objects and is planning to spruce up the site.

去年春天，巴黎媒體大亨讓-西里爾·布特米(Jean-Cyrille Boutmy)買下了保羅-伯特-賽爾貝德。他實施措施保障市場內所售物品的正宗，並打算把它整飭一新。

Cyril Aouizerate, one of the founders of the Mama Shelter hotel in Belleville, in the 20th Arrondissement, is investing 40 million euros in a hotel that will open at St.-Ouen in 2016. To be called M.O.B., the 350-room hotel will include a cultural center with a bookstore, meditation rooms, an open-air movie theater and a vegetarian restaurant serving organic, local produce.

貝爾維爾媽媽庇護所(Mama Shelter)酒店的創始人之一西里爾·奧澤拉特(Cyril Aouizerate)投資4千萬歐元在第20區建造一家新酒店，2016年將在聖圖安開業。它的名字叫M.O.B，有350個客房，文化中心內有書店、冥想室、露天音樂劇場和素食餐廳，供應本地有機農產品。

For visitors who want to shop as well as look, all is not lost. Here is a rundown of some of my affordable favorites (or at least where good value can be found).

那些購物與觀光並重的遊客也不會錯過什麼。我列了個大綱，下列店鋪的東西都不貴（或至少是優質的）。

The perfect scarf: vintage Hermès scarves, many of them decades-old and in the softest of silks, start at 160 euros at Le Monde du Voyage in Marché Serpette. Helen and Alain Zisul also offer a selection of perfectly preserved Louis Vuitton trunks.

完美的絲巾：賽爾貝德市場的“世界旅遊”(Le Monde du Voyage)店有經典的愛馬仕絲巾，用最柔軟的絲綢製造而成，其中許多有數十年曆史，價格60歐元起。店主海倫和阿蘭·芝薩爾(Helen and Alain Zisul)也有保存完美的LV系列行李箱。

Paintings: Post-Cubist gouaches in oak frames by the little-known painter Jacques Marly (1885-1965) start at 950 euros. Marly painted only for pleasure during his life; his grandniece Josette Revellin has begun to sell a few at a time at Marché Serpette.

繪畫：橡木畫框裝裱的前立體主義水粉畫，作者是鮮爲人知的畫家雅克·馬爾禮(Jacques Marly，1885-1965)，價格950歐元起。馬爾禮一生作畫只爲自娛，他的侄孫女喬賽特·瑞福林(Josette Revellin)在賽爾貝德市場偶爾出售幾幅他的畫作。

Old kitchenware: Call on François Bachelier at Bachelier Antiquités at Marché Paul Bert for enamel scales, heavy copper pots, enameled metal animal prize medallions, tin molds, advertising signs, kitchen utensils, southwestern French pottery jugs and pitchers and winemaking paraphernalia. At 350 euros, the three-foot-high, cast-iron apparatus in fire-engine red to cork wine bottles was a steal.

懷舊廚具：去保羅-伯特市場的“巴舍利耶古董”(Bachelier Antiquités)店尋訪店主弗朗索瓦·巴舍利耶(François Bachelier)，賞鑑琺琅秤、沉甸甸的銅鍋、搪瓷動物獎章、錫模、廣告牌、廚具、西南法國的陶罐、水罐及全套造酒設備。有一套三英尺高的火紅色鑄鐵裝置，功能是用軟木塞塞住瓶口，售價才350歐元，簡直是白撿。

Old paper: Take a detour to Paul Maurel in Marché Vernaison at St.-Ouen. For 35 years, the shop has offered old travel posters, maps and flower and animal prints.

舊紙：到聖圖安市場威爾內森市場的“保羅摩瑞爾”(Paul Maurel)店逛一圈。35年來，這家店鋪一直在供應古老的旅行明信片、地圖、花朵和動物圖案印刷品。

Costume jewelry: If you’re longing for native English speakers, also in the Marché Vernaison is Au Grenier de Lucie. Jason and Heidi Ellis gave up their jobs as sports coaches, sold their London home to move to Paris and opened up a vintage jewelry and accessories shop five years ago. If you’re not tempted by the alligator handbags, try a rhinestone tiara.

人造珠寶：如果你渴望遇見母語是英語的人，就去威爾內森市場的Au Grenier de Lucie。五年前，店主傑森和海蒂·艾利斯(Jason and Heidi Ellis)放棄了運動教練的工作，賣掉了倫敦的房子，搬到巴黎，開了這家古董珠寶和飾品店。如果你對鱷魚皮手袋興味索然，就試試水鑽頭冠吧。

Old postcards and photographs: Take another detour up an escalator to the Marché Dauphine and call on Philippe Rault just inside the entrance. Try out his stereoscopes for a look at early 3-D. And at 15 euros apiece, you might walk away with the perfect gift: a 60-year-old aerial photo of a Paris neighborhood. If you’re not worn out, head into the main Dauphine area for some of the market’s best bargains.

老照片和明信片：再繞個路，乘坐向上的扶梯去王妃市場拜訪“飛利浦·羅爾特”(Philippe Rault)，這家店就在市場大門內。試用一下他家的立體鏡，看看早期的3D景觀。只需15歐元，你就可買走一件完美的禮物：有六十年曆史的巴黎街區航拍照。如果你還沒累壞，可以走進地位顯要的王妃區，有些東西在這兒買特別划算。

But if such a singular adventure sounds exhausting, hire a guide to do all the work — and price-negotiating — for you. Henry Personnaz, a French interior designer, has made a hobby of giving small private tours of St.-Ouen. He can customize them to suit your tempo and your taste for any object — from a 19th-century oil painting to an Art Deco silver table setting.

但是，如果這種孤身尋寶聽上去很累人，不妨請個導遊包攬一切，他們還會幫你討價還價。法國室內設計師亨利·波桑納斯(Henry Personnaz)有個小小的雅好，就是在聖圖安擔任私人伴遊。他可以根據你的喜好和品味選購旅行紀念品，包括19世紀的油畫和裝飾藝術風格的銀餐具。

If you want a brasher, nonstop, more American approach, contact Rachel Kaplan. She loves to show you what she calls “the deals”; she hates being interrupted.

如果你喜歡便捷、直接、更加美國的旅程，可聯繫瑞秋·卡普蘭(Rachel Kaplan)。她喜歡帶你逛她所謂的“好買賣”；討厭被人打斷。

“You know what I call the flea market?” she told a mother, daughter and grandmother on a private tour. “The Louvre — except you can go shopping.”

“你知道我把這片跳蚤市場叫做什麼嗎？”在一次私人伴遊中，她對一個由母親、女兒和外婆組成的旅遊團說。“盧浮宮啊。而且還能買東西。”

Some may call that the perfect Paris outing.

或許會有人覺得，這就是完美的巴黎之旅。

IF YOU GO

旅行指南

Hours are Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, visit www­heauxpuces-saintouen­; maps are available at the St.-Ouen tourism office. Guides include Henry Personnaz (parisfleavip­) and Rachel Kaplan (contact­@frenchlinks­).

市場內店鋪開放時間爲每週六上午9點至下午6點，週日上午10點至下午6點，週一上午11點至下午5點。更多信息可登陸網站www­heauxpuces-saintouen­；聖圖安旅遊辦公室提供地圖。導遊包括亨利·波桑納斯(parisfleavip­)和瑞秋·卡普蘭(contact­@frenchlinks­)。

WEBSITES IN ENGLISH

英文網站：

L’Eclaireur,

時尚偵察兵，

Mademoiselle Steinitz, mademoisellesteinitz­.

司坦妮小姐，mademoisellesteinitz­.

Un Singe en Hiver, unsingenhiver­.

冬天的猴子，unsingenhiver­.

Le Monde du Voyage, lemondeduvoyage­

世界旅遊，lemondeduvoyage­

Paul Maurel, .

保羅摩瑞爾，.

Au Grenier de Lucie, augrenierdelucie­.

Au Grenier de Lucie飾品店, augrenierdelucie­.

WEBSITES IN FRENCH

法文網站：

Paul-Bert—Serpette, paulbert­.

保羅-波特-賽爾貝德市場, paulbert­.

Habitat 1964, ­/vintage.

愛必居1964, ­/vintage.

Galerie Gam, .

加姆畫廊, .a

La Petite Maison, lesmerveillesdebabellou­.

珀蒂特，lesmerveillesdebabellou­.

Colonial Concept, francoisdaneck­.

殖民概念, francoisdaneck­.

La Buvette des Tartes Kluger, .

La Buvette des Tartes Kluger餐廳，.

Bachelier Antiquités, bachelier­.

巴舍利耶古董，bachelier­.