家有大廚 在家自制美味披薩

Some people insist on Pizza drenched in tomato sauce, heaped with cured meats and oozing cheese. Others crave minimalist pies topped with nothing but garlic, olive oil and rosemary, or thinly sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. One way to please everyone at the table is to custom-make pizza at home: Prepare a selection of toppings and take orders.

有些人酷愛浸滿番茄醬、堆滿燻肉和淌着奶酪的披薩。有人則喜歡上面只有大蒜、橄欖油和迷迭香，或者只放薄薄的西紅柿切片和鮮馬蘇裏拉奶酪的極簡主義披薩。在餐桌上讓所有人都滿意的一種方法是在家自制：多準備幾種配料，按客人的需求製作。

For me, though, a pizza ultimately succeeds or fails on the quality of its crust. The kind of flour you choose makes a big difference. In the recipe at right, I opt for half whole-wheat flour, half all-purpose or bread flour. The whole wheat makes for a flavorful crust, and provides all the health benefits associated with eating whole grains -- though a crust made solely with this kind of flour would be tough and dry. All-purpose flour has a higher protein content, and bread flour an even higher one; adding either to the mix makes a smoother dough and a lighter, more tender crust. You can also make this recipe using entirely all-purpose or bread flour, or a combo of the two. Experiment until you achieve the texture and taste you crave.

不過對我來說，一個披薩的成敗在於餅皮的質量。選擇的麪粉種類會起到重要作用。在本文的菜譜中，我選用的是一半全麥麪粉，一半通用麪粉或麪包粉。全麥麪粉會讓做出來的餅皮很香，而且全麥穀物非常健康――不過全部用這種麪粉做出來的餅皮會又硬又幹。通用麪粉的蛋白質含量比較高，麪包粉蛋白質含量更高；添加這兩種麪粉中的任何一種都會讓麪糰更細潤，做出來的餅皮更輕盈更柔軟。還可以全部用通用麪粉或麪包粉製作，也可以二者混合。不斷地嘗試，直到達到你想要的質感和味道爲止。

The part many novice pizzaiolos find daunting is handling the pizza dough. All too often, the circle springs back like a rubber band and becomes impossible to roll out long before it reaches the diameter called for in the recipe. I recall becoming similarly frustrated myself -- and jettisoning the recalcitrant dough in favor of English muffin halves -- when first trying to make pizza. Little did I realize, all that stiff dough needed was a short time-out in the refrigerator. Kneading and rolling develop the gluten in the flour and cause the crust to recoil rather than enlarge; chilling relaxes the tightly wound gluten. A five-to-10-minute rest results in compliant dough that stretches effortlessly to its requisite size.

令許多披薩製作新手卻步的部分是處理披薩麪糰。麪糰老是會像橡皮筋一樣縮回去，沒辦法扯開，達到菜譜中所需要的直徑。我記得自己第一次嘗試做披薩時也曾這樣沮喪過――最後我放棄了頑固的麪糰，做成了英式鬆餅的樣子。我沒有意識到，那硬邦邦的麪糰所需要的只是在冰箱裏擱置片刻。揉捏會讓麪粉產生面筋，導致餅皮回彈而不是延展；冷卻會讓結構緊密的麪筋鬆弛。五到10分鐘的冷卻會讓麪糰輕而易舉地延展到所需要的大小。

THE INGREDIENTS

原料

1 1/3 cups lukewarm water

1/3杯溫水

2 cups whole-wheat flour

2杯全麥麪粉

2 teaspoons honey

2茶匙蜂蜜

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

2茶匙精海鹽

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 2 teaspoons to grease bowl

2湯匙橄欖油，外加2茶匙橄欖油用於塗碗

1 envelope active dry yeast

1袋活性乾酵母

2 cups bread or all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling

2杯麪包粉或通用麪粉，另加少許用於揉麪

THE STEPS

製作步驟

1. Add flours, honey, yeast and salt to the bowl of a food processor or electric mixer and process to combine. Add water and 2 tablespoons oil and continue to process until dough forms a ball. If dough is sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. If dough is too dry, add water, 1 tablespoon at a time.

第一步 在食物處理器或電動攪拌機的攪拌碗中加入麪粉、蜂蜜、酵母和鹽，然後攪拌。加入水和兩湯匙油，繼續攪拌，直到麪糰成球狀。如果麪糰比較黏，再加麪粉，一次加一湯匙。如果麪糰太乾就加水，一次加一湯匙。

2. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until you have a smooth, elastic ball, about 5 minutes. (Kneading can also be done using an electric mixer with the bread hook in place.)

第二步 將麪糰拿出，放到撒有少許麪粉的檯面上，揉捏麪糰，直到麪糰成爲光滑有彈性的圓球，大約需要揉捏五分鐘。（還可以裝上面團鉤用電動攪拌器來揉麪。）

3. Form dough into a smooth ball and place in a large bowl greased with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until dough doubles in size, about 1 hour. Cut risen dough in half. Knead each half briefly and then shape into a ball. Place the two balls on a lightly floured surface and cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Let rest 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator up to 24 hours. If refrigerated, let dough come to room temperature before continuing.

第三步 鮮膜，靜置片刻，直到麪糰脹大一倍，大約需要一小時。將發起來的麪糰對半切，分別簡單揉一揉，然後捏成球狀。將兩個麪糰放在撒有面粉的檯面上，用幹 的廚房紙巾或保鮮膜蓋上。室溫放置一小時，或者冰箱裏放置最長24小時。若放在冰箱，等麪糰溫度恢復到室溫後再繼續下一步。

4. Use a rolling pin to roll out and your hands to stretch each ball into a circle 12-14 inches in diameter. If dough becomes too elastic, place it in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes to relax before continuing.

將麪糰揉成光滑的圓球，在一個大碗裏塗上剩下的兩茶匙橄欖油，把麪糰放在碗裏，蓋上保

Pizza Margherita

第四步 用擀麪杖將麪糰擀平，用手將兩個麪糰拉成直徑12到14英寸的圓餅。如果麪糰彈性太大，將其在冰箱放置約10分鐘後再繼續處理。

Total Time: 20-25 minutes Makes: one 12-14-inch pizza

瑪格麗塔披薩(Pizza Margherita) 用時總計20到25分鐘，成品爲12至14英寸的披薩

Preheat oven to 500 degrees and place rack as low as possible in oven. Lightly oil a 14-16-inch pizza pan or very large baking sheet and lay uncooked crust on top, rolling in edges to form a rim if desired. // In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high heat, add 2 large cloves garlic, minced, and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add 1 ½ cups canned whole peeled tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pan, then packed ¼ cup torn basil leaves. Boil, stirring frequently, until a thick sauce forms, 5-7 minutes. // Spread a layer of sauce over rolled-out crust, top with packed ¼ cup torn basil leaves and 4 ounces fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced. (You may have leftover sauce.) Drizzle with 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon oregano and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. If you like, top with 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan and/or red pepper flakes to taste. // Bake 10 minutes. Use a pizza peel or a large spatula and an oven mitt to transfer pizza from pan directly onto oven rack. Bake 2 minutes more, or until cheese is melted and crust is golden and done to your liking.

將烤箱預熱到500華氏度（260攝氏度），將烤架放在烤箱最底層。將一個14至16英寸的披薩盤或一個大號烤盤塗上少許油，將生餅皮放在盤子上，如果喜歡的話可以把邊緣捲起來做褶邊。// 10英寸的平底鍋中倒入一湯匙特級初榨橄欖油，中火加熱，加入兩大瓣蒜切成的蒜末，炒制一分鐘。加入一杯半罐裝去皮整番茄，在鍋中壓碎，然後加入1/4杯撕碎的羅勒葉。煮開，不停地攪拌，直到變成濃濃的番茄醬，需要五至七分鐘。//在攤好的餅皮上鋪上一層番茄醬，上面撒上1/4杯撕碎的羅勒葉和四盎司鮮馬蘇裏拉奶酪薄片。（番茄醬可能用不完。）淋入三湯匙特級初榨橄欖油。撒上半茶匙牛至葉，加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味。如果喜歡的話，可以按照口味撒上三湯匙現磨的帕爾瑪乾酪和/或紅辣椒片。//烤制10分鐘。用披薩鏟或大鍋鏟和防熱手套將披薩從烤盤轉移到烤架上，再烘烤兩分鐘，或者根據自己喜好烤至奶酪融化，餅皮呈金黃色。

Variations

其他口味

1. Onion, Garlic and Rosemary: Combine 2 large red onions sliced into very thin rings, 4 very thinly sliced garlic cloves, ½ cup olive oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes and 3 tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary leaves, and let marinate at least 1 hour. Top pizza and bake.

1. 洋蔥、大蒜和迷迭香披薩：兩大顆紅洋蔥切成薄薄的圈，四顆大蒜切成薄片，將洋蔥圈、蒜片、半杯橄欖油、1/4茶匙鹽、半茶匙紅辣椒片和三湯匙新鮮迷迭香葉碎末混合在一起，醃製至少一小時。鋪在披薩上，放入烤箱烤制。

2. Vegetarian: Brush dough with olive oil or pesto, then top with slightly overlapping thin slices of eggplant, onion, tomato, mushrooms and mozzarella. Brush lightly with more oil or pesto. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake.

2. 素披薩：將麪糰刷上橄欖油或香蒜醬，上面鋪上切成薄片的茄子、洋蔥、西紅柿、蘑菇和馬蘇裏拉奶酪。再刷上少許橄欖油或香蒜醬。加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味，放入烤箱烤制。

3. Marinara: Brush dough lightly with tomato sauce, then sprinkle with rinsed and dried capers, halved and pitted black olives, and chopped anchovies. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake.

3. 瑪利那拉披薩(Marinara)：將麪糰刷上少許番茄醬，然後撒上漂洗幹 的幹酸豆、對半切去核的黑橄欖，還有剁碎的?魚。加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味，放入烤箱烤制。

4. Quattro Stagioni: Brush dough lightly with tomato sauce. Top with strips of prosciutto, sliced mushrooms tossed in olive oil, sliced marinated artichokes and halved and pitted black olives. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake.

4. 四季披薩(Quattro Stagioni)：將麪糰刷上少許番茄醬。鋪上意大利薰火腿條、拌了橄欖油的蘑菇片、醃洋薊片、和對半切去核的黑橄欖。加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味，放入烤箱烤制。

5. Mixed Peppers and Onions: Lightly sauté 4 bell peppers, sliced-mixed colors if possible-along with 2 sliced onions and 2 cloves sliced garlic in 3 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in mixed chopped fresh herbs (parsley, basil, oregano, thyme and/or chives) if desired. Spread over pizza dough. Bake. When hot from the oven, garnish with freshly grated Parmesan.

5. 辣椒洋蔥雜燴披薩：四個燈籠椒切片，如果可能的話用不同顏色，兩隻洋蔥和兩顆大蒜切片，放入三湯匙橄欖油中煎製片刻。加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味。如果喜歡的話可以加入切碎的新鮮香草（歐芹、羅勒、牛至、百里香和/或韭菜）。煎好鋪在麪糰上，放入烤箱烤制。從烤箱出爐時，趁熱撒上現磨的帕爾馬乾酪。

6. Fresh Sausage and Peppers: Follow instructions for Mixed Peppers and Onions, and dot with ¼ pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, crumbled, before baking.

6. 鮮香腸和辣椒披薩：按照辣椒洋蔥雜燴披薩的步驟製作，烤制前鋪上1/4磅甜味或辣味意大利香腸碎塊。

7. Shellfish and Scallions: Cut 6 scallions into 1-inch lengths and sauté in olive oil 1 minute. Add ¾ pound mixed shellfish-shelled shrimp, sliced scallops, clams and mussels steamed open and removed from shells. Stir in 1-2 cloves chopped garlic, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and remove from heat. Brush dough with olive oil and add a layer of chopped fresh tomatoes. Top with shellfish mixture and bake. Garnish with chopped fresh basil or parsley.

7. 海鮮青蔥披薩：將六棵青蔥切成一英寸長的小段，在橄欖油中煎制一分鐘。加入3/4磅各類海鮮――去殼的蝦、切碎的扇貝、蛤蜊和蒸熟並去殼的貽貝。放入一到二顆大蒜的蒜末，加鹽和現磨黑胡椒調味，關火。將麪糰刷上橄欖油，鋪上一層剁碎的新鮮番茄。鋪上調好味的海鮮，放入烤箱烤制。最後用剁碎的新鮮羅勒或歐芹點綴。

8. Mushrooms, Pancetta and Garlic: Cut 5 ounces pancetta into ¼-inch lardons and cook over medium heat until soft. Transfer pancetta to paper towels to drain. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil to pan and sauté ¾ pounds sliced mixed mushrooms with 2 cloves sliced garlic, chopped thyme and chopped parsley. Add cooked pancetta and top pizza. Bake. When done, garnish with grated Parmesan or Pecorino.

8. 蘑菇、意式培根(Pancetta)、大蒜披薩：將五盎司的意式培根切成1/4英寸大小的肉丁，中火烹製直至鬆軟。將培根轉移到紙巾上控油。平底鍋中加入三湯匙橄欖油，加入3/4磅切片的各類蘑菇、兩顆切片的大蒜、剁碎的百里香和歐芹。加入烹製好的培根，鋪在麪糰上。放入烤箱烤制，烤好後撒上磨好的帕爾瑪乾酪或佩克里諾乾酪點綴。