中英雙語話中國民風民俗 第6期:中國的傳統服裝

China's Ancient Clothing

中國的古代服裝

China's traditional clothing is characterized as magnificent, as shown in ceremonies and court, and grand and exerts immense influence on the neighboring countries. An outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese clothing is not only an external expression of elegance，but also an internal symbolism. Each and every piece of traditional clothing communicates a sense of vitality of its own intrinsically. Such a perfect combination of external form with internal symbolism of clothing is clearly exemplified in the pair of fighting pheasant feathers used in head wear originating in the battle wear of the Warring States period(475一221 BC) feathers of a ho bird(a type pheasant good at fighting)were inserted into the helmet wom by warriors of this period to symbolize a bold and warlike spirit.

中國傳統衣着的特點是華麗。中國的傳統衣着的一大顯著特點就在於它不僅表現出外在的典雅，而且還具有內在的象徵意義。每一件傳統服裝都傳遞出其自身所具有的內在活力感。從人們所佩帶的一副難雞羽毛中，就可以體現出這種服飾的外在形式與內在象徵的完美結合。這起源於戰國時代(前475一前221年)戰鬥時的習俗。因爲在當時如果將兩片鳳鳥(這是一種非常擅長戰鬥的難鳥)的羽毛插在武士所佩戴的頭盔上的話，便可以以此來象徵大無畏的尚武精神。

According to archaeological findings，18 000-year-old artifacts such as bone sewing needles and stone beads and shells with holes bored in them attest to the existence of ornamentation and of sewing early in ancient Chinese civilization. Variety in clothing was roughly established by the era of the Yellaw Emperor and the Emperors Yao and Shun(about 4 500 years ago)ins of woven silk and hemp articles and ancient ceramic figures further demonstrate the sophistication and refinement of clothing in the Shang Dynasty( 16th to I 1 th century BC ).

根據考古學的發現，18 000年前的文化遺蹟中有諸如骨針和穿孔的石珠和貝殼，它們都證明了在中國古代文明很早的時候裝飾和縫紉就已經存在了。而到了黃帝和堯舜時代(大約距今4 500年前)，服裝的品種已經初具規模。絲麻織物的殘片和古代的陶俑進一步表明商代(公元前16至公元前11世紀)服裝的精密程度和優雅程度。

The three main types of traditional Chinese clothing are the pien-fu，the ch'ang-p'ao，and the shen-i. The plan-fu is an ancient two-piece ceremonial costume of a tunic-like top extending to the knees and a skirt or trousers extending to the ankles. The ch'ang-p'ao is a one-piece garment extending from the shoulders all the way to the heels. The shen-i is a cross between the pies and the ch'angp'ao;on the one hand，it consists of a tunic and a skirt or trousers like the pierfu， on the other hand，the tunic and the skirt are sewed together and essentially one piece like the ch'ang-p'ao. Consequently, the shen-i was the most widely worn of the three types. Typical of these three types of clothing were wide and voluminous sleeves and a very loose fit. Tunic and trousers or tunic and skirt，utilized a very small number of stitches for the amount of cloth used. So because of their relatively plain design and structure，embroidered edgings，decorated bands，draped cloth or silks，patterns on the shoulders，and sashes were often added as ornaments. Variety in designs came to be one of the unique features of traditional Chinese dress.

傳統的中國服裝可以分爲棄服、長袍以及深衣三種。棄服是一種分爲上衣和下裳的古代裝束，它的上衣類似於束腰外衣並且長至膝蓋，而其下裳則爲裙子或褲子並長至腳躁。長袍則是由肩部到腳踵的單件外衣。深衣則是介於棄服和長袍兩者之間的另一種服裝，它一方面由束腰上衣和裙子或褲子組成，這一點和棄服很像;而另一方面束腰_r_衣和裙子縫合在一起;實際上就像長袍一樣是單件外衣。因此，深衣是這三種服裝中使用最廣泛的一種。這三種服裝的典型特徵就是寬大的袖子和寬鬆的腰身。無論是採用束腰外衣和褲子組合還是束腰外衣和裙子組合，它們相對於所使用的布料量而言都儘可能少地使用針腳數量。由於它們的設計和結構相對比較樸素，因此它們經常繡上花邊、飾以鑲邊、輔以褶皺布料或絲料、肩部加上圖案花樣、並配上腰帶。這些不同的式樣便成爲中國傳統服裝的一個特殊之處。

Darker colors were favored over lighter ones in traditional Chinese clothing，so the main color of ceremonial clothing tended to be dark while bright，elaborate tapestry designs actented. Lighter colored clothing was worn more frequently by the common people for everyday life and around the house use. The Chinese associate certain colors with specific seasons:green represents spring，red symbolizes summer, white represents autumn，and black symbolizes winter. The Chinese are said to have a fully developed system of matching，coordinating，and contrasting colors in apparel.

中國的傳統服裝對暗色調的偏好程度要大於亮色調，因此禮服的主色調往往採用暗色調，然後輔之以精巧的亮色調織錦式樣。普通百姓平常生活和在家附近則通常穿亮色調的服裝。中國人將某些色彩與特定的季節聯繫在一起:綠色代表春天，紅色代表夏天，白色代表秋天，而黑色則代表冬天。據說，中國人已經擁有一整套對服裝顏色進行搭配、協調和對比的方法了。

China's Modern Clothing

中國的近代服裝

After the 1911 Revolution，the garments changed greatly，and the dresses and the official cap were eliminated. Particularly，hair plaits were cut off, but chi-pao(one-piece mandarin robe)still exist. The Blue Short Gown of schoolgirls was the main style，and it gradually became popular.

自從1911年辛亥革命以來，外套便產生了巨大的變化，同時服裝和官員所戴的帽子均被廢除。尤其是剪掉了辮子，但是旗袍(單件式滿清官袍)依然保留了下來。女學生所穿的藍色短袍成爲主流款式，並且這逐漸流行起來。

The government specified the system of formal dresses of men and women in the first year of the Republic of China. Men had dress suits and routine suits. Dress suits included day suit and evening suit，which were all made of black cloth，trousers and cravats. Routine suits included Western style and Chinese style(e. g. long gown and mandarin jacket) formal dress of women had collars and was long to the knees with buttons down the front. Skirts were decorated with cartouches in the front and back，both sides were sewn with pleats，and both ends had patterns of knots.

在中華民國元年，當時政府規定了男子和女子的正式着裝制度。男子可以穿着禮服和常服。禮服又包括午服和晚禮服，兩者均包括黑色衣服、褲子以及領結。常服則包括西式和中式兩種(即長袍和馬褂)。婦女所穿着的正式服裝則帶領子而且長至膝蓋，並在前側下方綴有鈕釦。裙子上配有裝飾鏡板，同時兩側均縫有褶皺，兩端則採用打結式樣。

Along with the emergence of cinema，film stars became eminent figures gradually. Shanghai City became the base camp of women's wear in China. The garments of Guangdong Province and Hong Kong became one of the branches of Shanghai City garments

隨着電影院的興起，電影明星也逐漸成爲顯赫的人物。上海市成爲中國婦女服飾的大本營。廣東省和香港的外衣則成爲海派外衣的一支。

Changes of Men's and Women's Costume

男子和婦女服裝的變遷

Men wore western-style clothes and Sun Yat-sen's uniform(Chinese tunic suit ) . These two styles of clothes were foreign styles，and most officials and intel lectuals more usually wore them. White garments were worn in the summer, but black or dark garments were worn in other seasons. The style with a mandarin jacket over a long gown was still one of the common dressing styles. The student's clothing with erect collar e pockets and seven buttons were mainly the uniform and women included a jacket and trousers or covered with a ramie skirt(long or short small skirt fastened on body ).

男子穿着西式服裝和中山裝。這兩種風格的服裝均爲西式服裝，大多數官員和知識分子通常都穿着這些服裝。在夏天穿着白色外衣，但在其他季節則穿着黑色或暗色調外衣。在長袍上穿馬褂依然是常見的穿着風格。學生的服裝則採用立領、三個口袋以及七粒鈕釦，這主要是大學和學院的學生所穿的服裝。此外，農村男女的普通穿着方式是一件短褂加一條褲子，或是在褲子外面再罩上竺麻裙子(系在身上的小裙子，可長可短)。

Women's costume changed greatly during the period，some kept the Qing Dynasty(1644一1912)style of trousers and clothes with curving front，some imitated western-style with a jacket and a skirt，most schoolgirls wore black silk skirts and short jackets that had a round lower hem and short sleeves to elbow. The common garments of social women were mainly Chi-pao.

婦女的服裝發生了巨大的變化，有些保留了清朝(1644一1912 )的褲子和衣服式樣，它們前側採用了弧形造型，有些則仿照了西式服裝並採用短褂加裙子，大多數女學生則穿着黑色的絲裙和短上衣，並且在下方有個圓形的褶邊，它的袖子較短只及肘部。社交女性的普通外衣則主要採用旗袍。

The overall tendency of new garments was divided into two types:one type was the long Chi-paos made of solid-color cloth or printed materials;characteristi-tally, laces or patterns were added to the edges，or the small waistcoat and silk scarves were over the jacket. As to the other dressing type，the upper garment and lower skirt were separated.

新式外衣的整體傾向可以分爲兩種類型:一類是長旗袍，它由純色布料或印花布料所製成;它的特點是在邊上加花邊或圖案，或是在短褂上罩小馬甲和絲巾。至於另一種穿着類型，則分別穿着上衣和裙子。

In the 1920s，people began to wear Chi-pao whose style was mostly the same as that of the Qizhuang garments(garments of banner men)existing at the end of the QingDynasty. Later，the cuff was reduced gradually，and embroidered border was not as broad as the previous one. By the end of the 1920s，dressing style was affected by that of Europe and America，and the pattern of chipao was changed significantly. By the early 19306，Chi-pao had been very popular. The main changes of garments in that time were the modifications of collar, sleeve and length，etc. The garments with high collar were popular at first，and the higher the collar, the more popular. Gradual1y，garments with low collars began to be popular，and the lower the collar，the more modern. Finally，people wore collarless and sleeveless Chi-pao.

到了上世紀20年代，人們開始穿着旗袍，它的風格基本上與清末的旗裝(旗人的外衣)是一樣的。之後，旗袍的袖口便逐漸收小，而且繡邊也不像之前那麼寬了。到了上世紀20年代末，服裝式樣受到了歐美的影響，而旗袍的式樣也發生了巨大的變化。到了上世紀30年代初，旗袍已經極爲流行了。當時外衣的主要變化是對領口、袖子以及長度等進行了修改。高領外衣起初十分流行，而且領口越高越流行。低領外衣逐漸開始風靡，而且領口越低越時髦。最後，人們開始穿着無領、無袖的旗袍了。

Influence of Foreign Costume

西方服裝的影響

With the inflow of foreign goods into China，western life styles penetrated into the society. Women living in Chinese big cities often attended social activities in the 19305一19405. All this resulted into the change of social morals accordingly. Women wore the western-style clothing and skirt together with glass and watch，and sunshade in hands，looking more modern and romantic. The modem fashion-able dress of Europe and Japan affected Chinese women in terms of short skirts， underwear and colors， etc. More and more women began to imitate ahem，and some e}len imitated the simple dressing style of America. Ladies who liked sports always wore red pleated skirts and used brassiere to replace the old-time bellyband (an undervvear that was made of red embroidery cloth and hung from the neck with gold or silver chains，it came down from ancient times) addition,women's one-piece dress was more popular. During the 19205一19405，fur coats were still popular in rich families.

隨着西方商品進人中國，西方的生活方式開始滲透社會。居住在大城市中的婦女在上世紀30年代至40年代經常參加社交活動。所有這些導致社會道德出現了相應變化。婦女們穿着西式的衣服和裙子，戴着眼鏡和手錶，手裏打着太陽傘，看上去更加時髦、浪漫。歐洲和日本近代的流行服裝在短裙、內衣以及顏色等方面對中國婦女產生了影響。越來越多的婦女開始對此進行模仿，有些婦女甚至模仿美國簡約的着裝風格。喜愛運動的婦女經常穿着紅色褶皺裙並用文胸來取代之前所使用的肚兜(一種用紅色刺繡布料製成的內衣並用金、銀鎖鏈懸掛在頸部，它自從古代便一直得以使用)。此外，女式單件服裝也更加流行。在20世紀20年代至40年代，毛皮大衣在富裕家庭中依然十分盛行。

Today's Clothing

如今的服裝

China's fashion designers use a mixture of traditional and modern ideas to create new fashions. These new fashions also incorporate age-old motifs such as guardian deities, lions，and masks of Chinese opera characters. Chinese bronze is another source of printed，woven，and embroidered design for clothes. Some of the distinctive designs include dragons，phoenixes，clouds，and lightning. Motifs from traditional Chinese painting also end up in woven or printed fashion designs.

中國的時裝設計師運用了各種傳統和現代理念來創造出新的時裝。這些新式時裝還加入了古老的圖案，例如守護神、獅子以及中國京劇人物所使用的面具。服裝上還印上、織上或縫上中國青銅器的圖案。某些獨特的設計圖案包括龍、鳳、雲以及閃電。傳統中國畫中的圖案也被編織或印在時裝設計中。

Many accessories such as macrame are used to decorate shoulders, bodices, pockets, seams，and openings of clothing，as well as belts，hair ornaments，and necklaces. Some successful examples of combinations of modern and traditional fashion elements are the modern bridal tiara，based on a Sung Dynasty design and the Hunan Province style of embroidered sash made in the traditional colors of pure red，blue, and green. From these examples，it can be seen how traditional Chinese dress is the foundation of modern fashion. However, the Chinese have also adopted many Western styles of clothing such as business suits and jeans.

爲了裝飾衣服的肩部、胸衣、口袋、縫合線、開口以及腰帶、頭飾以及項鍊，採用了諸如流蘇等許多裝飾品。有許多例子成功地將現代和傳統的時裝要素融合在一起，其中有現代化的新娘冠飾，它採用了宋朝的設計和湖南風格的刺繡飾帶，並且色調使用了傳統的大紅色、藍色以及綠色。從這些例子可以看出傳統的中國服飾乃是現代時裝的基礎。但是中國人也採用了許多西式的服裝，例如商務套裝和牛仔。

In modern society，Chinese men are seen at social occasions wearing ceremovial clothes in two varieties on formal occasions，t. e. the dignified and refined traditional Chinese long gown and the Sun Yat-sen's uniform，which is a creative blending of fashion elements from the East and West, and a milestone in the history of Chinese garment design-was hailed as the "State Suit"e women often wear the ch'i-p'ao，a modified version of a traditional Ching Dynasty. fashion. The variations of height, length，width，and ornamentation of the collar, sleeves，skirt and basic cut of this Oriental fashion are limitless.

在現代社會，中國男子在社交場合穿着兩種禮服，一種是威嚴、精巧的傳統中國長袍，另一種則是中山裝，它創造性地將東西方的時裝要素揉合在一起併成爲中國服裝設計史上的里程碑—被稱爲“國服”。而女子則經常穿着旗袍，這是清朝一種傳統時裝的現代化版本。這種東方時裝的領口、袖子以及下襬的高度、長度、寬度、裝飾以及基本的剪裁方法都是不受拘束的。