設計師愛穿自己設計的衣服嗎?

Fashion show finales follow a familiar rhythm: after the models march along the catwalk for a last hurrah, the designer comes out to take a bow. Their demeanour is often telling, an indicator of their attitude to the collection they've shown — are they a bag of nerves, or grinning from ear to ear?

時裝週的壓軸戲總是大同小異：模特們在T型臺上最後一次華麗亮相後，設計師就會出場向觀衆鞠躬致謝，其行爲舉止通常反映了他們對展出時裝系列的態度——是緊張得要死，還是樂得合不攏嘴？

Also noteworthy is the look they choose to take their bow in. Are they even wearing their own work? One of the most celebrated designers of our time never wears his own designs. Karl Lagerfeld may create the occasional menswear look at Chanel and he designs a whole men's collection for his eponymous label but he has long been a customer elsewhere: Dior Homme.

他們鞠躬致謝時所穿的行頭同樣是關注焦點。他們此時會穿自己設計的時裝嗎？我們這個時代最知名的設計師從不穿自己設計的時裝登臺致謝。卡爾·拉格菲爾德（Karl Lagerfeld，綽號老佛爺）或許時不時會設計一把香奈兒(Chanel)男裝，他也設計了自己同名品牌的全部男裝，但長久以來，他一直是迪奧男裝(Dior Homme)的忠實客戶。

Lagerfeld started wearing Dior Homme when he was in his late sixties, shedding six-and-a-half stone to fit into the skinny styles of the label's then designer Hedi Slimane. Lagerfeld has stayed loyal to the brand ever since, even after Slimane, now creative director of Saint Laurent, quit in 2006. And although the label is known for its emphasis on youth, Lagerfeld, now in his eighties, remains one of Dior Homme's most visible clients.

老佛爺臨近古稀之年纔開始穿迪奧男裝，他足足減了40公斤體重才穿上時任迪奧設計總監艾迪·斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)設計的窄版男裝，從此以後他一直“癡心不改”，甚至2006年艾迪·斯理曼（如今是聖洛蘭(Saint Laurent)創意總監）離開迪奧後依然如故。儘管迪奧的關注重點一直是年輕人，但如今已是耄耋之年的老佛爺仍是迪奧男裝的忠實擁躉。

Raf Simons, meanwhile, Dior's creative director of womenswear, is partial to Prada: his presence in the documentary film Dior I (2014) is most clearly announced via his distinctive studded Prada sneakers and he often takes his catwalk bow in a head-to-toe Prada look. For his first Christian Dior ready-to-wear show he wore a vintage denim jacket with red stripes by Austrian designer Helmut Lang.

與此同時，如今迪奧女裝創意總監拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)則對普拉達(Prada)情有獨鍾：在迪奧2014年記錄片《璀璨風華Dior之夜》(Dior and I)中，擔任主演的他以一雙與衆不同、打滿飾釘的普拉達運動鞋出場，時尚格調顯露無遺；他常常從頭到腳一副普拉達行頭登臺致謝。舉辦自己的首個迪奧成衣展時，他穿的是奧地利設計師赫爾穆特·朗(Helmut Lang)設計的飾有紅色條紋、復古風格的牛仔夾克。

And yet many designers do wear their own work, especially if the brand carries their surname. Editors scan the wardrobe of Miuccia Prada for clues to her latest collection: is she feeling utilitarian, elegant or purposefully off-kilter? When Donatella Versace takes her bow, she often wears a look from the collection she's just shown — for AW15, it was a pinstriped, flared pantsuit. And even Simons has worn pieces from his own-label collaboration with Sterling Ruby

然而，許多設計師的確會穿自己設計的作品，尤其是穿同名品牌的衣飾。時尚主編留意到繆西婭·普拉達(Miuccia Prada)個人所穿的衣服，希望找出它們與她最新設計的時裝之間的關係：是實用、優雅還是有意驚世駭俗？當唐娜泰拉·範思哲(Donatella Versace)在T型臺上鞠躬致謝時，穿的行頭往往選自自己剛剛展示的時裝系列————她身穿細條紋喇叭款套裝參加了2015年秋冬季時裝展(AW15)。甚至拉夫·西蒙斯也選擇穿自己與斯特林·魯比(Sterling Ruby)合作設計的同名品牌時裝。

So if the name is on the label, does it mean the clothes will always be on the designer's back? Not necessarily. "I've never been into wearing clothing with my own brand name inside," says Jonathan Anderson, designer behind JW Anderson and now creative director of Loewe. "I find it odd and arrogant."

那麼，如果標籤上印有自己名字，是否意味着設計師始終會穿它呢？也不盡然。“我一點都不喜歡穿自己的同名品牌服裝。”JW Anderson時尚總監喬納森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)說，他如今出任羅意威(Loewe)創意總監。“我覺得這樣做既怪異，又顯得自大。”

Anderson's own wardrobe is a familiar uniform: crewneck sweater, faded blue jeans, Nike sneakers. It's entirely opposite to the menswear looks he creates for his own label's catwalk presentations, which have included bandeau tops and frilled shorts. He seems to favour a clean-palette approach: keeping himself neutral so as to not deflect from his experimentation elsewhere.

安德森個人所穿衣櫥是衆所周知的千篇一律：圓領羊毛衫、褪色牛仔褲及耐克運動鞋。它們與他發佈會上推出的男裝（細帶式上衣與鑲花邊的短褲）風馬牛不相及。他似乎對清爽顏色情有獨鍾：個人始終穿中性色服裝，爲的是專心致志於自己的大膽時尚嘗試。

This kind of wardrobe is common among fashion designers. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler appear to have no desire to create menswear for themselves or others, dressing instead in a similar style to Anderson: crewnecks, polo shirts or button-downs, usually with jeans and sneakers. Mary Katrantzou, meanwhile, recent winner of the 2015 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, may have built her business on print and embellishment but she is usually found in a black knit dress by Azzedine Alaa. Alaa himself has perhaps the ultimate clean-palette wardrobe: for decades he has worn black cotton Chinese pyjamas, fastened by simple floral buttoning.

設計師個人喜歡穿中性風格服裝，這在時尚圈裏隨處可見。普羅恩薩·施羅(Proenza Schouler)的雙星組合傑克·麥克洛(Jack McCollough)與拉薩羅·赫南德斯(Lazaro Hernandez)似乎無心自創自己或別人的同名男裝品牌，相反，他們的穿着風格酷似安德森：圓領衫、有領短袖運動T恤(polo shirt)或是鈕釦領襯衫，通常用牛仔褲與運動鞋進行搭配。與此同時，2015英國時裝理事會/《Vogue》設計師時尚基金獎新科得主瑪麗·卡特蘭楚(Mary Katrantzou)或許會創立印花紋與修飾類時裝品牌，但自己卻常穿阿瑟丁·阿拉亞(Azzedine Alaa)的黑色針織裙。阿拉亞本人所穿衣服也許最爲單一：幾十年來，他一直穿簡單花扣款的黑色中式棉睡衣！