歐羅巴十二寶之里斯本的瓷磚

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計，逐一欣賞吧。

Lisbon: Tiles

里斯本的瓷磚

Is there a bluer country than Portugal? The blue sky and Atlantic Ocean embrace the land. The blue moods of Fado, the melancholy folk music, form the national soundtrack. And all across Portugal, the tyPically blue designs of azulejos — ceramic tiles — are spread across churches, monasteries, castles, palaces, university halls, parks, train stations, hotel lobbies and apartment facades. The result is an embellished land of Christian saints, biblical episodes, Portuguese kings, historical glories, pastoral idylls, aristocrats at leisure, landscapes, seascapes, floral designs and, above all, geometric motifs.

世界上還有比葡萄牙更藍的國家嗎？蔚藍的天空和大西洋圍繞着這片美麗的土地。藍色的情緒和憂傷的民間音樂法朵塑造了國民的音軌。從教堂、修道院、城堡、宮殿、大學禮堂、公園、火車站、酒店大堂和公寓正門，葡萄牙到處都是風格各異的藍色瓷磚，形成了一個有天主教聖徒、聖經故事、葡萄牙歷任國王、史上傳奇、田園風光、貴族、風景、海景、花卉設計和幾何圖形的包羅萬象、美輪美奐的王國。

Thousands of specimens, from the 15th century to the 1930s, fill Solar a nearly 60-year-old Lisbon tile specialist and antique dealer. (Solar Antique Tiles, a newer showroom in New York City, is run by a family member.)

附近的太陽(Solar)瓷磚店裏展覽着從15世紀到20世紀30年代的數千種瓷磚。這家店鋪是里斯本的古董精品瓷磚專營店，已有60年曆史。（紐約市還有一家更新的太陽古董瓷磚公司，由店主的某位親人負責經營。）

Stacks of tiles and hanging panels embody historical styles such as Hispano-Moorish, Renaissance, Baroque, neo-Classical, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Blue and white are the star colors, though yellow, green, brown and other hues sometimes play supporting roles.

成堆的瓷磚和懸掛的嵌板展現了多種歷史風格，如西班牙摩爾風、文藝復興、巴洛克、新古典主義、新藝術和裝飾藝術等。領銜主演是藍色與藍色，黃、綠、棕和其他色調偶爾客串演出。

Simple, small individual decorative tiles start at 20 euros ($24) for 18th-century varieties and 8 euros for 19th-century examples. Be prepared to pay 50 euros or more for 17th-century tiles and at least 100 euros for those from the 16th century.

也有簡單而獨立的裝飾性小瓷磚，18世紀的品種起價20歐元（24美元），19世紀的起價8歐元。做好心理準備，買一套17世紀的瓷磚至少要花50歐元甚至更多，16世紀的起碼100歐元。

One marquee name in stock is Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a celebrated 19th-century illustrator and ceramist whose work has been collected by the British Museum. A dazzling neo-Moorish geometric pattern explodes in a kaleidoscope of blue, white, emerald and caramel shapes across four tiles (90 euros a tile).

有個名字不斷出現——拉斐爾·波達洛·皮涅羅(Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro)，他是19世紀著名的插畫家和陶藝家，作品被大英博物館收藏。四片瓷磚上，藍色、白色、翠綠和焦糖色構成變幻無窮的萬花筒，組合出光輝奪目的新摩爾風幾何圖案，讓人目不暇接。（每片瓷磚90歐元。）

Collectors might consider rarities like an 18th-century 56-tile panel, originally in an aristocratic lady’s dressing room, depicting a trompe l’oeil mirror in which a noblewoman can be seen gazing into a looking glass held by her attendant. The cost is 9,300 euros. Palace not included. SETH SHERWOOD

收藏家或許會考慮購買一些珍品，比如18世紀的56片式嵌板。它最初出現在貴族女性的梳妝室裏，那是一幅錯視畫，內容是一位貴婦凝視着侍女手中的鏡子。售價9300歐元，不含宮殿。賽斯·舍伍德供稿。